1st pool opening.

Jun 10, 2015
71
Ottawa, Canada
Hi,

1st time I open my pool this year.
Last year PB had to redo my pool bottom, so water was all drained out in spring so did not get to open the pool after the winter. So, today I removed the cover and started the beast.

Here are my parameters:
water temp: 45f (brrrrr!)
FC: 3
CC: 0
Ph: 7.4
CH: 275 (really glad all that melted snow brought it down, was at 450 at closing)
TA: 40
CYA: maybe 20-25 (always having trouble with this one)
Salt: 2200

Water is pretty clear, nice color and can see bottom very well, but lots of particules in suspenstion from when I remove the cover.

Now what, I will bring the salt up, bur no point in truning the SWCG yet(water too cold).
I could also bring my CYA up a bit, but I don't like it too high and with all the shade I have it's fine in the 40 range.

should I bring my Chlorine up? even if I don't have CC, or just circulate for now?

here us what the pool look like:
image.jpg

Thanks.
 
Day 2, water is getting very pretty.
Most of what was in suspension was filtered out or deposited at the bottom.
FC is at 2, CC is still at 0.
Not being used to chlorine only(1st time the water is so cold I cant use the SWG). I assume it's OK to lose 1 FC in 24 hours.
It was very sunny all day yesterday.

So, water seems all good, but was earing a hissing sound when I went out this am and discovered way too much air in my system.
I now have to look for a succion side air leak...��
 
The easiest thing to check are low water level in the skimmer and a sticking weir (flapper) in the skimmer. You can develop a vortex and suck air that way. If you've been emptying the pump strainer, even a little grit on the O-ring can create a leak. And doublecheck all the drain plugs you might have replaced when opening. More ideas: Pool School - Suction Side Air Leaks

Now that FC is at 2, it's time to replenish it. Target 4 or 5
 
Cleaned my seal very well put pool lubricant all over it. Same on basket plugs. I also applied silicon on the joints at my elbow that is not inground(I only have 2x 90 degree elbow 1 below skimmer(in ground) and 1 just before entering the pump).
I'm now back to where I've always been, almost no air, but still a small amount will not go away and never did in the past 2 years. The cover design just seems to not be well made to allow all the air to go.

image.jpeg

Should I dig under the skimmer to look for a leak, or it's OK like this. As said, it's been like this since day 1. The horizontal molded piece is creating 2 piece of plastic that sticks down by almost 1" inside the basket area and some air stays trapped behind it (top of picture where the pump intake is). Picture is not exactly clear(picture is with pu p running). If i stop the pump, I will have an air pocket of about 2 inch in diameter at the top.

This morning my FC=5.5 and CC=0, water is almost crystal. I could tell head or tail on a coin at the bottom of deep end(6feet), but still not the "wow do I have water in there" yet.
 
Cleaned my seal very well put pool lubricant all over it. Same on basket plugs. I also applied silicon on the joints at my elbow that is not inground(I only have 2x 90 degree elbow 1 below skimmer(in ground) and 1 just before entering the pump).
I'm now back to where I've always been, almost no air, but still a small amount will not go away and never did in the past 2 years. The cover design just seems to not be well made to allow all the air to go.

View attachment 47389

Should I dig under the skimmer to look for a leak, or it's OK like this. As said, it's been like this since day 1. The horizontal molded piece is creating 2 piece of plastic that sticks down by almost 1" inside the basket area and some air stays trapped behind it (top of picture where the pump intake is). Picture is not exactly clear(picture is with pu p running). If i stop the pump, I will have an air pocket of about 2 inch in diameter at the top.

This morning my FC=5.5 and CC=0, water is almost crystal. I could tell head or tail on a coin at the bottom of deep end(6feet), but still not the "wow do I have water in there" yet.
A bubble trapped between the lid ribs is pretty normal. If you can run the filter for several hours and not have to release air, you don't have an air leak.
 
Greeting Jori, and welcome.

I just wanted to add something to your opening comments.
Shade or no, i suspect you will get more "life" out of our SWG cell if you keep your cya at the TFP-recommended level of 70-80 once the water is warm enough for the swg to operate. Please refer to the Salt Water guidelines in Pool School if you'd like more information.

Also, regarding your difficulty with the cya test...are you using one of the recommended TFT100 or Taylor k2006...I realize they're hard to get in Canada, but wanted to check. I think Lowry's distributes the Taylor kits in Canada.

Complete & Service Complete Kits with FAS-DPD - Lowry and Associates Canada

Its cute that Lowry's calls the Taylor k2006 a "commercial" kit.
 
I use Taylor K-2006, purchased from USA for the full kit, but refills are not too hard to get in Canada.

The reason I don't like my CYA too high is that last year I had it at 60-70 and had to run my SWG at 10%and for only 6 hours else I would see my FC climb too quickly. The year before I had CYA at ~40 and ran SWG at 20-30% for 10 hours.
I found it easier the year before, when I was leaving with cover on for a extended time, since I had some room to reduce the output. Room which I did not have last year. Came back from 2 weeks vacation with FC at 18.

I will raise my CYA, but will do it slowly and see once I can turn my SWG on what type of output I get.

thanks for your input.
 

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In that case, keep your cya where it works for you...;)

Eg. If your preference is a longer run time on pump/filter and if you're only running 20-30% you'll get plenty of life out of cell, so long as your FC is holding well throughout and you're not having any problems re: algae.
 
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