PH help

[Sp4]

I have a 30,000 gallon vinyl liner SWG pool...my problem is that my PH is always high and I have no chlorine....what can I do to make it go down and stay down?

 

[aeh0603]

Hi, welcome to TFP!

The people here will definitely be able to help you balance your water if you listen to their advice!

I will share a couple links with you to help get you started, but I also have two important questions for you. How do you test your water? And can you post a full set of test results? With that information we can help guide you with exactly what you need to do to balance your water.

Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Pool School - PoolMath

 

[woodyp]

PH has a tendency to naturally rise. NO magic bullet for "making it stay down". TA in range helps to buffer your PH and make it more "manageable". Test results please!

 

[Sp4]

Thanks guys
FC 1.03
TC 1.05
CC .02
PH 8.3
Hardness 186
Alkalinity 88
Cyanuric acid 3
Copper 0
Iron 0.3
Salt 4140
I use the sticks to check at home but this is from the pool store

 

[Texas Splash]

Sp4, our main problem at the moment is that any tests from strips or the pool store are extremely unreliable. Unfortunately those products or services just aren't constant or accurate. You'll want to obtain either a TF-100 (Link below) or Taylor K-2006 to test on your own. Once you get one you'll see why - not to mention save a lot of $$$.

"IF" (and that's a big if) we were to believe those store tests were accurate, this is what you would hear: Lower pH to about 7.6 right away with acid; CYA needs to be at least 70 for a SWG pool. FC needs to be increased immediately to avoid algae. Increase to at least 3 ppm for now, then to about 5 ppm once you get stabilizer (CYA) increased. TA is fine. Hardness .....N/A since you have vinyl, although check your SWG owners manual for any specific requirements.

Having said all that, you NEED to get your own test kit. Also, before you raise the CYA to 70, is your water clear? If it is clear with no apparent signs of algae, then it should be safe to increase. pH rises primarily from aeration and an elevated TA. Your TA is not all that high from those tests, but your own test kit may show it even higher.

Hope some of this helps. Please consider the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006. Have a nice day.

 

[Sp4]

Do I need to add any of the other test to this? Thanks will order today!

 

[Texas Splash]

Not really. I mean when you have your own test kit, we look only for FC, CC, CYA, pH, TA, and CH. All the other pool store stuff really doesn't apply. When you go to the TFTestkits.com web site, they also have very nice salt testing options that you might be interested in. I will say this though, whichever kit you do order, I would encourage you to also get the "Speed Stir". I makes the whole mixing process much easier.

In the meantime, below in my sig are the TFP Recommended Levels and Chemicals links that you will want to always keep handy. Have a nice day.

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum. I don't want to inundate you with too much homework but everything starts with "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.

Get your test kit in and TRUST YOUR RESULTS. You care about your pool a lot more than the pool store and we'll help you understand and learn how to keep your pool crystal clear.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I would also add that, aside from adjusting pH or chlorine, you should NOT add or adjust any other chemicals until your test kit arrives. Some of those chemicals, like CYA, are impossible to lower without dumping water and you do NOT want to adjust them based on faulty pool store results. Your pool is not going to melt away while you wait so just adjust pH and add some bleach until your test kit arrives.

Welcome.

 

[Sp4]

Pool results

Merged by moderator. Please keep related questions/discussion together. Thanks, jblizzle

I was excited to get my kit in the mail today. I have a 30,000 gallon vinyl IG with SWG set at 100%.
Ph-8.2
FC--1ppm
CC--1ppm
TC-2
TA-100
CYA..??? The dot never disappeared!
First set of test results....

- - - Updated - - -

Pool is crystal clear

 

[Texas Splash]

Fantastic! So let's break it down now:
- pH is high, so use muriatic acid to lower it to about 7.6
- CYA low is a no-no; add enough stabilizer for a SWG-pool target of 70 ppm; that's very important to protect your chlorine (FC)
- Speaking of FC ... increase to about 3 ppm just for today. Once your granular stabilizer dissolves, then keep FC between 4-6 ppm; use bleach if needed until your SWG adjusts
- TA can be left alone for now; maybe lower later.... acid lowers TA at the same time your lower ph

The only other concern, even with clear water, is your elevated CC. I suspect that may be due to having no CYA and your FC is struggling. Use some bleach right away to help the SWG until your get the stabilizer dissolved into the water. I would keep the FC on the higher end of the range (6 ppm) for a couple days to see if that helps lower or eliminate the elevated CC. If not, or the condition of your after changes, let us know.

 

[Sp4]

First thank you so much for all of your help! I appreciate it greatly...I just wanted to double check I looked at the pool calculator and wanted to just verify...
1...51 oz muratic acid
2...I have 2 pounds of super-shock 73 left so add 1 pound (after this is gone, I plan to switch to bleach)
3... And for the stabilizer i have 15 pounds of granular I had already bought from the pool store...how many pounds?
Thanks again

 

[Sp4]

10 pounds stabilizer?

 

[Texas Splash]

For the acid, it's 41 ounces of muriatic (liquid) or 55 ounces by weight of dry acid. You can use either, but we usually use muriatic. I don't recall what ingredients are in the Super-Shock, so you may want to look close at the label. It may have calcium (no big deal for you) or stabilizer. For the CYA/stabilizer, I'm coming-up with 280 ounces of the granular type stabilizer (i.e. from Wal-Mart) to get to a CYA of 70. Their stabilizer comes in 4lb (64 ounces) containers, so you'll need a little over 4 containers (18 lbs) of them (about $16 each). But if your Super-Shock has cyanuric acid in it, that will help make-up the difference.

So .... with CYA, you may want to shoot for 60 ppm ... just to be safe. The last thing you want to do is over-shoot that one by too much. You can always add more in a few days, but you can't remove it.

- - - Updated - - -

FYI - 10 lbs will only get you to about 40 ppm. 12 lbs (3 containers) will get you just under 50.

 

[Sp4]

I will have to see why my numbers aren't matching but for now let's get the chemicals in...if I vacuum on Friday should I just add chlorine and muratic acid today or do it all and wait to vacuum? Last ?? I promise!!

 

[Texas Splash]

I would add those chemicals now if you have them - especially some CYA. Vacuuming won't hurt much of anything. As for the ??? ... keep 'em coming. That's what keeps us off of Facebook.

 

[moreira85]

You sound like me. 1st year pool owner 30,000 gallon vinyl. I had same issues and questions few weeks ago. I couldn't get that black dot to go away and was like 'what 10 lbs of stabilizer"?
These guys on the forum are great. I follow some of these threads like yours and I'm learning a ton. My pool is crystal clear. I finally got my cya to 30 using 5 lbs and waiting for it to warm up to bring it up to 70 before I get my swg going for the first time. I found the sock method over a return worked best for adding cya. Good luck and enjoy!

 

[Sp4]

??? Sock method? I haven't even read about that!

 

[moreira85]

Its in pool school i believe. Put the cya in a tube sock and just hang it over the pool in front of a return jet and it dilutes it nicely.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning Sp4! Sorry, just saw your "?". If you still need it, here you go:

To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and suspend it near a return jet or in the skimmer. Best not to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level, although the test readings may take anywhere from 24 hours to a few days to fully register. Confirm CYA in about one week before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.