Fine tuning CYA and hints of algae

[anonapersona]

FC = 8 (added calhypo last night, did not test after addition)
CC = trace, call it 0.5 maybe
pH = 7.7 (will add some acid today)
TA = 170 (same as before)
CH = 240 (same as before)
CYA = 40 (down from 60 - may be my error before due to uncertainty of "dissappear")

So, first, given that my pool gets a lot of sun in sunny Texas, do I want to shoot for a slightly higher CYA value? Seems that in general, I'd want it somewhat high for the summer, maybe somewhat lower for the winter.

I think I may need to shock because I keep seeing a hint of algae on parts of the spa and the shallow side of the pool. Just a trace, but I suspect that I need to kill it, not just slow it down -- right?

The circulation pattern of the pool may not be ideal. I believe the pool leak testing guy changed the direction of the returns, I can't seem to get them to turn even when the circulation is off.

When shocking, I read that you test after adding the suggested amount of chlorine at night, then adjust, then test "before the sun hits the pool" -- is that Direct Sunlight? or just general daylight? The pool is shaded by trees to the north and gets actual sun at maybe 9 AM, maybe dappled bits of sun much earlier though.

And, the directions say to remove the Polaris before shocking. Necessary?

Finally, I think the recurring algae may be comming from the waterfall. I am wondering if I need to keep it running more to keep it well chlorinated. Otherwise, with running for 2 hours in late afternoon, the chlorine there must be long gone sometime after it is shut down. I'm thinking maybe I need to run it an hour or so, a few times a day?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

If you see algae, you need to brush these areas more frequently. Sometimes just keeping the FC elevated higher than "normal" a few days and brushing the problem areas daily will be enough. If that's not doing enough, you need to do an overnight FC test.

The Overnight Teset means testing after the last bleach addition, and testing as early in the morning before the sun hits the pool....I think 9am may be pushing it. Then compare the two results. If you lose more than 1ppm you should shock.

Yes, I would agree the waterfall should run more. By doing this and adding the acid as needed, your TA will drop and you benefit from the added aeration by the Waterfall and your PH will be more stable.

You can try running with a higher CYA I wouldn't go above 60 though. See if it makes any beneficial difference. Remember the higher the CYA the higher the minimum FC level.

Are the returns the 2 part kind? That you can loosen by turning the cap and then turn the eyeball, retighten the cap?

I don't know about the polaris.

Have you seen this link for the CYA test:
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/ChemistryTopicsCM.ASP?ContentID=44

 

[anonapersona]

If you see algae, you need to brush these areas more frequently. Sometimes just keeping the FC elevated higher than "normal" a few days and brushing the problem areas daily will be enough.

That is what I wasn't sure about. Seems that I am not getting ahead of the problem with brushing when I notice the slight green tint here and there. True, it is not much, maybe I am being a perfectionist?

Well, decided today to remove the Polaris so I could shock. Whether it needs it or not I guess. Based on CYA of 40, added cal hypo to get FC to 15, tested after 30 minutes (shees, it is nearly midnight -- locked the keys in the car at the end of the concert in the park and had to walk home 1.5 miles to get the spares.... nice night but curse these Dang high heels, didn't plan to walk home).

Test shows FC = 20. Maybe it would level out with more circulation. Not sure I care at this hour if it is high or stable... will let the waterfall run all night and try to burn off the algae there. I expect that chlorine will be lower in AM, will test at 6 AM ish. I suspect that the second day will be more stable, after waterfall is clean.

Thanks for the Taylor site, that did help and probably is the reason for the 60 becoming a 40, knowing what "no dot" looks like.

Did add some acid today, should have gotten the pH to 7.2 but did not test afterwards. Will do all tests again tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

I reset the controller to run waterfall an hour in AM, again in early afternoon, then 2 hours in evening. maybe that will keep it chlorinated. I do wonder how long it takes chlorine to dissipate in a shallow container, or how long it takes algae to grow in a shaded wet spot with no water actually on it. Maybe running 24/7 or all daylight is the answer?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I don't think you'll need to run it 24/7 but I would think after a week of increased run times of higher FC levels you will see improvement. For sure run it while you are shocking.

I hate walking in high heels.... takes a week to recover.

 

[fuzzy_dba]

...not getting ahead of the problem with brushing when I notice the slight green tint here and there...**** high heels, didn't plan to walk home...run waterfall an hour in AM, again in early afternoon, then 2 hours in evening. maybe that will keep it chlorinated...

First, it's amazing that ANYONE can walk in those things (Heels)! I don't know how you do it!

Second, if you are seeing a slight green tint here and there you are seeing the start of algae. Killing it is the only option ( ) and increasing the chlorine level and brushing it is the way to do it.

With your TA level and lowering PH and TA with acid, I'd run the waterfall 24x7 (aerate) to raise the PH up again. You'll have to do this multiple times to get your TA down. I've been 'trained' by the mod's here to think of TA as the buffer to keep the PH swings to a minimum: High TA means rapid PH swings which also means more work, and we're after a TroubleFreePool, right 8) ?