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Thread: T15 not producing chlorine

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    T15 not producing chlorine

    HELP! Newbie to the forum, pool owner for 7 years. Upon opening the pool from winter, seems as me SWG is not producing chlorine. Salt was high initially at 4000 after adding too much
    so I drained and now I am at 3100. Voltage on cell reads OT at 26.?? And current is 5.8? The current was much higher when the salt was elevated but was proportional to the salt level. Everything reads out on the panel as acceptable numbers yet no chlorine out of the returns. Water temp is 68 (Georgia).4 bags of shock then had water tested 2 days later at local store and
    TC 1.0
    FC 0
    Stab 30
    PH. 7.5
    Calc little low (forgot the numbers)
    How can I test the cell to verify since all parameters seem to be showing that it is working properly. 20k gallon.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    Welcome to TFP!!!

    The pool store should be able to test whether the cell is still good ... but do NOT let them test your water, we do not trust pool store testing. You need to invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits to truly know the condition of your water.

    What does the water look like?

    Please add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    Thanks Jason. Signature added. Water is clear. I shut it down for the winter. Safety cover, shock, algaecide. Winterize pipes, cap all outlets.
    16x32 Vinyl Inground 7 years old
    1HP Hayward pump
    Aquaplus control with T15 Salt cell
    Hayward booster pump
    Phantom cleaner

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    You generally do not want to rely on the SWG to raise the FC from zero. You should use bleach to get the FC level up to the required level, dependent on your CYA level (see the FC/CYA Chart) and then dial in the SWG to maintain it there.

    But, none of this is possible without one of the recommended test kits.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    Ok. Will adhear to that advice and get a sugessted kit but shouldn't the SWG produce chlorine at returns regardless of the total or free? I collected water directly from the return and used two different otc test strips and read out zero. I have done that before just to verify I had adequate chlorine production and the reading was sky high instantly, now, nothing?
    16x32 Vinyl Inground 7 years old
    1HP Hayward pump
    Aquaplus control with T15 Salt cell
    Hayward booster pump
    Phantom cleaner

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    The voltage, amps, salinity and water temperature are all correct for a properly working cell. It's making chlorine. You should see hydrogen bubbles coming from the returns.

    I don't understand the OT?

    Can you post a picture of your diagnostics?

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    Quote Originally Posted by Radboy01 View Post
    Ok. Will adhear to that advice and get a sugessted kit but shouldn't the SWG produce chlorine at returns regardless of the total or free? I collected water directly from the return and used two different otc test strips and read out zero. I have done that before just to verify I had adequate chlorine production and the reading was sky high instantly, now, nothing?
    Some test strips will actually bleach out and register 0ppm if the FC is too high. This can happen if your cell is running normally and you collect highly chlorinated water at the return. It is also why we don't trust test strips around here. We call them "Guess-Strips" because that's about all they are good for...

    Jason and James are senior experts here and will give you the very best advice.

    Good luck.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    The salinity that you're reporting, is that from the diagnostics or an independent test?

    If it's from diagnostics, can you get a reliable independent test? The Taylor K-1766 is a good test for salt. You should definitely get that.

    How old is the cell?

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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    Will post a pic. The salinity was f the rea wasding from the control panel. The local pool supply read out 200 lower than mine. Will try to get a more accurate test and will take the cell in to have it tested at another supply store in the morning. Starting the 7th year now. Typically run for 8 hours daily at 65% for 8 hrs and has been fine. If my calculations are correct, I am looking at around 5k hours total.
    16x32 Vinyl Inground 7 years old
    1HP Hayward pump
    Aquaplus control with T15 Salt cell
    Hayward booster pump
    Phantom cleaner

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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    26 volts and 5.8 amps are right on for 68f and 3100 ppm salinity. If the salinity is close to actual, the cell is good.

    If the real salinity is more than 800 ppm higher than the diagnostics show, the cell is failing.

    If you're getting 26 volts and 5.8 amps, it's definitely making chlorine.

    7 years is about when cell fail.

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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    Update:
    Thanks to everyone who has given advice. It is invaluable! I took the salt cell in to my local supply store this morning. Cell tested fine (heard stories of one place tested good and the other bad), so I was still not satisfied. I fabricated a union to fit in place of my SWG to maintain water flow so the control panel would not turn off due to "no flow". I then filled a 5 gallon bucket with pool water and submerged the cell in the water (as you all know, the T-15 does not have visible plates while installed) and turned the system on. Within 5 seconds of the cell energizing, started producing bubbles and VERY cloudy/chlorine water! GREAT NEWS! Dodged a $500 bullet on this one! James, you are right, I am definitely producing chlorine. Sooooooo, I need to add liquid chlorine to get levels up to acceptable and then the cell should maintain with proper chemistry. Thanks Jason! 25.54v, 5.90 amp, 2900 salt currently via diagnostic panel. I still have to order a kit that Jason had suggested, just haven't had time due to the current issues. Once again, thanks for the knowledge supplied by everyone.
    Last edited by Radboy01; 04-28-2016 at 01:12 PM. Reason: spelling error
    16x32 Vinyl Inground 7 years old
    1HP Hayward pump
    Aquaplus control with T15 Salt cell
    Hayward booster pump
    Phantom cleaner

  12. Back To Top    #12
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    Sounds good. Definitely get the kit ordered.

    Since the water was at low FC levels, you may have to follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process to eradicate anything in the water before the SWG will be able to successfully maintain proper FC levels.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Re: T15 not producing chlorine

    If the volts and amps are right, it's almost impossible that it's not making chlorine. It's a pretty definitive test.

    The best test for cell preformance is how close the diagnostic salt reading is to the actual salt level. When the cell is new and working optimally, the diagnostic reading will be right on (within the allowable precision). If the cell begins to underperform, the diagnostic reading will be lower than actual. I would suggest the following guidelines:
    Diagnostic salt within 400 ppm of actual -Cell good
    Diagnostic salt 400 to 700 ppm below actual - Cell underperforming.
    Diagnostic salt 800 to 1,000 ppm below actual - Cell substantially underperforming.
    Diagnostic salt more than 1,000 ppm below actual -Cell failed. Time to replace.

    Get the salt test kit option with the TF100 to track the performance of your cell.

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