Wiring Hayward Prologic PS-4 (or OmniLogic) Sub panel

[gwegan]

Woa Nellieee

We are way off topic here. The Poster wants to add automation between his existing service and his existing pump. We are not changing loads or anything else. The problem is he does not have the service that the automation states it needs in the installation manual and without a lot of pictures or actually looking at it we really can't tell what he has. Yea it smells like a multi wire branch circuit (not the best thing to do in a residence by the way), but we really don't know that.

That said I really think you should have electrician come out and look at what you have and give you some options.

 

[tstex]

Gwegan states: "That said I really think you should have electrician come out and look at what you have and give you some options."

I agree per quote: "Get a qualified electrician that has done 50+ previous pool installations and knows all the nuances - the controller must have 3 ft or more clearance from pool equip and make sure all your wiring home-runs have plenty of length to controller. Let us know what the electrician says?"

Sorry if I got off-topic, but was trying to explain some of the basics...I too have rode that horse "Nellieee"

 

[tap1936]

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and comments, they are very welcome.

I had a licensed electrician come and take a look. This is what he has proposed:
1. Keep existing #12 wires (4 wires coming from the main panel - the wires are multi-stranded not solid) and convert entire circuit to 240V instead of the 2 120V multi wire branch circuit that exists currently.
2. Place a GFCI 20A 2 Pole Circuit breaker on the main panel
2. Rewire my pool pump to 240V (its currently running @120V)
He did wiring voltage calculation and feels for the power consumption I have, the above should be good.
3. He will get Township Panel permission and Inspection done

My current consumption would be:
1. Pool Pump - 8A @ 240V
2. Hayward Omnilogic 5A @120V max
3. Lighting - 3A @ 120 ( can be eliminated if capacity constraints)

Entire job is being quoted at 675 excluding permissions.
Two Questions- does the wiring make sense and is the cost reasonable? The electrician contractor is a licensed contractor and seems to know what he is doing.

Thanks for any help and suggestions.
TP

 

[jblizzle]

I do not think putting a 20A GFCI breaker in the main panel is going to work correctly. This is because you are going to have the light and Omnilogic 120V circuits in the Omnilogic panel which is going to make the load on the 2 240V legs imbalanced and throw the GFCI.

You might need to put the GFCI breakers for the pump and lights in the Omnilogic instead.

 

[tap1936]

So put normal 20A 240V breakers in the main panel and two GFCI breakers (one rated at 240v for the pump and one 120V for the lights) in the omnilogic sub-panel?
Would that be acceptable from a code perspective?
Thanks

I do not think putting a 20A GFCI breaker in the main panel is going to work correctly. This is because you are going to have the light and Omnilogic 120V circuits in the Omnilogic panel which is going to make the load on the 2 240V legs imbalanced and throw the GFCI.

You might need to put the GFCI breakers for the pump and lights in the Omnilogic instead.

 

[jblizzle]

Yes, that is what I meant. I think that is acceptable, but you need to verify for yourself.

A 240V GFCI breaker looks for am imbalance between the 2 hot wires to trip it. With any 120V circuits running on it, you will have that imbalance.

 

[tap1936]

What you are saying makes sense. When I mentioned this to my electrician he said that since the neutral passes through the CB as well it would not trip due to imbalances. So he still suggests 1 20A GFCI at the main panel and two normal circuit breakers for the pool pump and light.

Yes, that is what I meant. I think that is acceptable, but you need to verify for yourself.

A 240V GFCI breaker looks for am imbalance between the 2 hot wires to trip it. With any 120V circuits running on it, you will have that imbalance.