Hit the reset button..or keep going

[Shannon L]

Been reading and learning a lot here the last 30 days but have a few questions. Have really struggled with this pool the last couple years...then I found you guys and want to try the BBB method. First the specs...Pool has approx 8500 gals now. Thought it smart to save on chlorine with the 3/4 full pool. Started about 3 weeks ago with this...test from the pool store. Bought a TF-100 test kit since.

Green. Covered for part of the winter. Had a winterball in it, I know better next time.
.25 FC
.25 CC
6.4 PH
35 TA
4 CYA
0 TDS
Added Borax to raise PH to 7.5 then 12.5% chlorine to 10 ppm and a couple trichlor pucks in a floater I already had from last year (thinking it would raise the cya up). I have checked twice a day for almost 3 weeks bringing the chlorine back up to 12. Every morning morning and evening it's down to 2 ppm fc. Last night put a whole jug in which should have raised it 15ppm according to pool calc (awesome tool btw). Ran the pump on low power 24/7 for the first 10 days or so. Running on high power 24/7 since.

This morning MY testing shows...
Greyish blue color
2.5 FC
26 CC
6.6 PH
40 TA
? CYA (too low)

I was shocked by the CC and PH since I had not been testing it since the SLAM isn't over. I did it this morning just out of curiosity. Was headed to town any way so I took along a sample.
Pool store tests...
.5 FC
11.5 CC
6.3 PH
5 TA
7 CYA
2500 TDS

Few questions...
1. Was told that chlorine works better at lower PH/Alk... since my FC is low should I adjust those back up before continuing SLAM?
2. Should I raise the CYA up to 30 now and use more chlorine or wait till after SLAM is done. Thought the pucks would have done more for that.
3. Is the water cloudy due to the TDS level? Would adding fiber or DE be wise?
4. I have a bottle of floc laying around from last year. Would this help settle the TDS/dead alge and vacuum to waste?
5. Is "Clean Shock" (Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinetrione Dihydrate) the dichlor listed in the pool calc options? Want to use the right rate.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Shannon

 

[Texas Splash]

Shannon, maintaining FC is critical. One thing to emphasize though ... use your TF-100. Trust it. Disregard ANY pool store results. You have the best test kit out there. As for your questions:
1. Not really. For a SLAM (higher FC level), just ensure pH is adjusted to 7.2-7.5.
2. See below
3. Ignore TDS. Not normally relevant to the SLAM or algae free water.
4. Do not use floc or any pool store meds!
5. Use nothing but regular liquid bleach. Again, refrain from pool store products.

Based on your tests and history, It's possible you have ammonia in the water. Also remember that the tablets you dropped in the water are acidic and also lower pH. Ammonia can be very difficult to get rid of, but possible if you use your TF-100 and follow these instructions carefully (have lots of bleach on-hand and ready!). Make sure pH is adjusted to 7.2-7.5 first then do the following:
1. Begin a SLAM and dose FC up to SLAM level. If your CYA test is showing as zero (perhaps already converted to ammonia), use a SLAM/Shock FC of 10. Do not add additional CYA at this point.
2. Retest FC at 10-minute intervals.
a. If FC loss is greater than 50%, add FC to bring back up to SLAM level and continue retesting FC @ 10-minute intervals.
b. IF FC loss is 50% or less, add FC to bring back up to SLAM level. Go to Step 3.
3. If CYA is below 30 ppm, add enough CYA to bring level up to 30 ppm.
4. Continue SLAM as directed in the SLAM article until the SLAM Criteria of Done are met. Test as directed in the SLAM article - no longer need to test FC at 10 minute increments at this point.

Follow that process and you should see better progress. But remember - just regular bleach. Generic is fine. Let us know how it goes.

Oh, and remove those pucks!

 

[Shannon L]

Thanks for the input guys. Today I picked up some CYA and some Super Washing Soda to raise the PH, TA & CYA. Will get those levels up before getting the chlorine levels up. Floc will go in the trashcan.
I'm sure there is ammonia present. The last 2 years have just ran pucks and dichlor shock powder, so I'm sure the CYA level was through the roof. I bet bacteria conversion brought it back to zero.

The only reason for mentioning the TDS is that it's really high and thought the floc would take it out. I'll just let the sand filter do it's job. What about adding DE or fiber to help pull more dead algae out?

Too bad they don't require reading pool school before you're allowed to buy a pool.

Shannon

 

[Texas Splash]

We can entertain DE later, but only at the very end of the SLAM. But please follow those numbered steps above closely to eliminate ammonia (if present). Don't add anything to the water (other than borax/washing soda for pH and bleach for FC) until you are sure you can hold 50% of your FC past 10 minutes. Once you can do that, increase CYA and press-on with the SLAM. We'll stick around to help.

 

[Shannon L]

Pat
Just so we are clear... borax instead of washing soda? I have both but thought the soda would raise the low TA up as well as PH. Pool calc says 55 oz (one box) of washing soda would raise PH 1.4 and TA 46. That put me right where I need to be on both.

Not arguing...asking
Shannon

 

[Texas Splash]

Of course, use whichever you prefer. Not a problem. You're using the Poolmath Calculator which is perfect! I'm actually more concerned with the reaction of bleach and FC in the water once you get going. Use whatever you have available for the pH adjustment.