New Pool Fill

[TomGallopavo]

I have a new saltwater xl pool sitting in my barn awaiting my attention (I grew up with a pool but have never taken care of one). I have the TF-100 kit and ran the tests on my well water this weekend.

FC = 0
pH =7.8
TA = 460
CH = 500
CYA = 0
salt = 0
borate = 0

I have 400 # of pool salt and boxes of Borax to get to 50 ppm. I can get HCl at the hardware store but will have to drive or order to get CYA.

I have to use this water and am hoping to decrease the calcium when I use the tap (soft) water to replace the splash-out. Do you with much more experience have any advice for me when I go to fill the pool in a few weeks? Thank You!

 

[Texas Splash]

Okay, we'll try to get you going, but we need to confirm ....... this pool will basically be treated like an indoor pool then (in the barn) correct? No sunlight? That makes a difference on how you adjust CYA and FC.

 

[TomGallopavo]

No, the boxes are in the barn, the install will be outside...

 

[Texas Splash]

ha ha. Okay, just making sure. So here's what you're looking at then once water is up to the skimmer
- Once water is in, start adding stabilizer for an initial target of 30 ppm. To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and suspend it near a return jet or in the skimmer. Best not to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level, although the test readings may take anywhere from 24 hours to a few days to fully register. Confirm CYA in about one week before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
- Day 1 - add regular bleach for target of 3 ppm; after that, keep it about 4-5 ppm, never below 3. Once you get the salt in there and crank-up the SWG, you'll eventually back-off of the bleach and rely just on the SWG for FC production.
- Adjust pH to the mid 7s (acid brings it down, borax takes it up)
- You can test and adjust TA later
- CH is mostly N/A, except you don't want it too high with your SWG, so you can counter-balance a high CH with keeping the pH slightly lower. We'll help you more later.

Always refer to those links below in my signature for recommended levels and items. Does this all make sense?

 

[TomGallopavo]

Add pool math am't of CYA, trust and wait, meanwhile add bleach till 3 ppm, turn on Solaxx Saltron Retro Jet, keep at about 4-5 ppm, adjust pH, report back. I think I have it, Thank You!

 

[Texas Splash]

You got it Tom from Hillbillyville. Have a nice day.

 

[TomGallopavo]

Pool is up and running. Had the pump and SWG on about 12 hours yesterday. Tested the water this morning:

FC 3
pH 8.4
TA 420
CYA 0 (added 4pounds yesterday)
Salt 4000
Borate 30

So I should lower the pH w/ HCL according to pool math? Should I run the SWG at max instead of midway like I did last night? Water is clear and luscious...really nice so far albeit somewhat cold.

 

[Texas Splash]

Definitely get the pH down ASAP. You ideally want to keep it around 7.6 or so. Your high TA will continue to pull that pH up, so you will need to work on lowering the TA with the acid/aeration trick as noted on the Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity page.

Yes, increase FC to about 5 either by SWG increase of simply adding a little regular bleach for now. Whichever you prefer to increase it until you get things adjusted. I would test the CYA again later today or tomorrow to ensure it's approaching the 70 target that you need to be at.

 

[TomGallopavo]

Got pH down to 7.0 and have the return aerating...will report back after evening tests. Now for a swim....

 

[flyweed]

all great advice here..keep your pH in check, or even a little low..and than aerate with your return, or a pool fountain of somesort..this will get your TA to start falling in the right direction.

 

[TomGallopavo]

FC 4
TA 240
CYA 35
The SWG has been on high all day and only up 1ppm

 

[Texas Splash]

That is a HUGE improvement in TA. Any chance some of that could be attributable to testing variances? In any case, that's much better and will help prevent the pH from rising as fast. Still need to go a little further, but that's great. As for your SWG and FC ..... it will be tough until your CYA increases to the recommended 70. Supplement with bleach if necessary. SWG pools need that higher CYA to protect the chlorine (FC) produced by the SWG. The sooner that CYA gets to 70, the sooner your FC should hold better throughout the day.

 

[TomGallopavo]

I have two 4 pound bottles of CYA powder...should I add some more?

 

[Texas Splash]

I saw you added 4lbs yesterday. On the calculator it shows your pool would need a total on just under 8 lbs to go from CYA 0 to 70. So if you have only added 4 lbs so far, you might want to add some more to compensate. Now if you already had some CYA in earlier and you want to let the CYA adjust for a day or so to make sure you don't go too high, that's fine. But if it seems to stabilize at only 35/40, then you will need to add more. Just be sure of your CYA testing. Take your time with this one because you really don't want to go over 80. Remember the CYA tips & tricks here:

Proper lighting is important for the CYA test. You want to test for CYA outside on a sunny day, but keep the skinny view tube in the shade. Taylor recommends standing in the sun with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.

 

[TomGallopavo]

First of all, thank you for taking the time help me and everyone else. I put about 3 pounds in a sock and will retest tomorrow.

 

[Texas Splash]

You're very welcome Tom. Good luck on everything. Check back in later if you have any problems.

 

[Pchase]

That is a HUGE improvement in TA. Any chance some of that could be attributable to testing variances? In any case, that's much better and will help prevent the pH from rising as fast. Still need to go a little further, but that's great. As for your SWG and FC ..... it will be tough until your CYA increases to the recommended 70. Supplement with bleach if necessary. SWG pools need that higher CYA to protect the chlorine (FC) produced by the SWG. The sooner that CYA gets to 70, the sooner your FC should hold better throughout the day.

That aeration trick was one of the best tips I ever saw, so I will add to it.

If you want to make a quick dent in the aeration, here is something you can make. You need (all 1 1/2"):
1 90 with male thread and slip joint
1 90 with female thread and slip joint
1 threaded male plug (drill 3 holes into this)
1 45
1 1/2 pipe cut about 12"-16" for one piece and the other about 6"
Don't bother gluing it so you can adjust angles after screwing it in


Unscrew a return and screw this in with the holes pointing toward the water and it will aerate like crazy. I've run 3 at a time and have dropped TA over 100 points in a day. I used to never be able to get below 120 without going too acidic before this.

 

[TomGallopavo]

FC 5
CYA 55
PH 7

Looking good so I added the last pound...will be building the aerator this weekend. The return is not getting it done though the three inches of rain has not helped the aeration. You Texas boys must be Aggie fans...Gig 'em!

 

[TomGallopavo]

Okay, so...

pH 7.2
FC 5
CYA 70

So wait for pH to get higher, add HCl to get pH and TA down sometime in the future?