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If your PSI gauge is working decently, assuming the sand filter is in good working order, after a good backwash check to see what your PSI is and call that your start PSI. Once it goes up 25% from that, it's backwash time again. So if your PSI gauge showed 10psi after a backwash, you could backwash when it hits 12.5 PSI. (Note: after the pool is all clear you may see your post-backwash psi be even lower than it is now. Use the lower PSI as your start value from there on out)

Also, when you backwash, be sure to turn off the pump first, adjust setting to backwash, turn back on, let it backwash until it runs clear no matter how long it takes whether 20-30 seconds or even if minutes, pump off, change setting to RINSE, pump on, run 15-30 seconds if always clear, pump off, change setting back to backwash (again) run 15-30 seconds, pump off, change setting back to RINSE (again) pump on run 15-30 seconds, then you're good to turn it off, change to filter/recirc whatever you're needing, then back on. (any of those times should be extended if water isn't clear yet, always end each step with clear water coming out)

I didn't know about the Rinse or the repeating the backwash/rinse when I started at my swamp. If you already knew, congrats!

Also, if you do end up having to drain any water at any time, I highly suggest trying to siphon vac from the bottom of the pool...it takes water out, but also algae sludge and leaves and needles and pollen. Just that alone took my pool from dark brown to dark green!!! Just be sure to check your local water prices before going too crazy with it. Bleach might be cheaper than water for you. You have some great people giving you advice! No need to every shy away from asking questions. No worries about just one more question, they love people like you that ask and do what they suggest.
 
That's a HUGE difference Nate in just half a day. Wow. You are off to a great start. Now no matter what, even when the water start to clear, don't let-up on the FC or daily requirements until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria. Do that and you will be in fantastic shape for the summer. Your neighbors will be jealous. :)
 

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Awesome start Nate! So anytime you see it at 12-12.5 PSI you're encouraged to backwash if you have the time and enough water in the pool to lose a tad.

Just keep on it and don't take a day off! Don't give up the progress you worked so hard for! You got this! If you have any questions at all about the SLAM procedures or final tests to verify your victory, ask anytime!
 
So...I know it was suggested to test cya tomorrow but it's supposed to storm and be cloudy all day. I test it this afternoon instead and still getting no reading, or somewhere below 30. I have lost a lot of water back washing and added new with the hose. How do I proceed to get the cya to normal range? Do I need to try adding again when I'm not back washing so often?


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Nate, you can use the Poolmath calculator add another 10-20 ppm if you would like. Test it again as soon as the sun reappears. If it's a little higher than 30, then just increase your FC accordingly using the Chlorine/CYA Chart. Not the worse thing to happen. After some recent testing, we've found that on average granular stabilizer shows-up on tests about 24-48 hours after dissolving. Hope that helps.
 

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