IC20 Flashing Inspect Cell

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The Hayward swg have an inspect cell that comes on at a given time period. It does not necessarily mean there's anything wrong with it. Perhaps the Pentair is the same and you just need to reset the light. I would not recommend acid washing if there is nothing visibly wrong with it as that just shorten its life.
 
The Pentair IntelliChlor "Inspect Cell" is due to low production. The system adjusts the voltage to try to keep the production constant. If salt levels and/or water temperature are low, production decreases so the voltage is increased. If the voltage hits the maximum limit and cannot keep production consistent, the "Inspect Cell" will come on.

What are the salinity and water temperature?

The IC20 is a smaller cell and won't last as long as a larger cell like the IC40.
 
According to the pool store, the salinity is 2700. According to my Easy Touch my water temp is 73* and salinity is 3040 (the easy touch has historically been 300-400 points higher than the pool store). I ran the hours test and it only showed 1 light =20%.

I had my IC20 output set at 20%, since it had been cooler. Bad me, I have not checked my chlorine lately...which is at zero! I am so mad at myself for just listening to the young man at the store and not even looking, who suggested adding shocker(which I did). Yet my pool is sparkling clear.

I have never been this lax. This is embarrassing. I just cranked up the CWG, but perhaps it's just crapped out? Could it be the power source and not the cell?

I can get a new IC20 for about $520 or IC40 for 585 on Amazon; an IC40 on Ebay for $535...

PS. is the power source I have for the IC20 suitable to run the IC40 if that's the way I go? Smaller pool, aprox 10,000 gal.
 
If the lights are green and the SWG is generating chlorine then you are OK. Salt tests are fairly inaccurate, often +/-300-400 ppm. They are designed to get you in the ballpark and then adjust based on if your SWG gives a low salt error. My guess is that you have an algae bloom due to low chlorine levels. The SWG is producing chlorine, just not fast enough to keep up with the algae. You can Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) to see if there is organic material in the pool consuming chlorine.

If yes, then Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain your pool.

Yes, the Intellichlor power source can power an IC20 or an IC40
 
Try increasing the salt to 3,600 ppm.

If you need a new cell, the IC40 would work with your system and would be a better choice.

If the "Inspect Cell" light is on, the unit won't produce chlorine. One way to check for chlorine production is to watch for hydrogen bubbles coming out of the returns. Hydrogen is produced as a byproduct of chlorine production and will be visible any time chlorine is being produced.
 
Checked chlorine again yesterday and still showing zero, so I ordered a new IC40. Due to arrive Monday 5/2 or 'sooner'...

Pool store gave me another bag of shocker in lieu of liquid chlorine, and said I should add 3 lbs of stabilizer.

Pool is perfectly clear at the moment, but I am sweating bullets waiting for that SWG to show up.
 
Don't wait for the SWG to put chlorine in your pool. You should never let FC sit at 0 for any length of time. Add bleach, liquid chlorine, whatever, keep it at target level for your CYA at all times, Chlorine CYA Chart. Dichlor is fine too except it adds almost as much CYA as it adds FC.

There is a fair chance that algae is already growing in the pool. Green water is the last sign of algae, not the first sign. First sign is slightly slimy pool walls, slightly cloudy water especially in the deep end, higher chlorine consumption. By the time you actually see algae in your pool it has been growing for days.

Keep a close eye on FC consumption and Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) to see if there is anything in the water consuming chlorine.
 
JamesW said:
Most likely, you just need to increase the salt level to get your cell to work.
Click to expand...

I added more salt and this morning my Easy Touch showed salt at 3600 and the "clean cell" was gone. Great, I thought, I bought a new IC40 and now the old cell is working. That conundrum didn't last long, however. I checked the cell again about 30 minutes later and the "clean cell' is back.

I am going back to the pool store today to retest my chlorine, and expect to come home with some liquid to pour in the pool.

Good news? The pool is still clear...

- - - Updated - - -

pooldv said:
Don't wait for the SWG to put chlorine in your pool. You should never let FC sit at 0 for any length of time. Add bleach, liquid chlorine, whatever, keep it at target level for your CYA at all times, Chlorine CYA Chart. Dichlor is fine too except it adds almost as much CYA as it adds FC.

There is a fair chance that algae is already growing in the pool. Green water is the last sign of algae, not the first sign. First sign is slightly slimy pool walls, slightly cloudy water especially in the deep end, higher chlorine consumption. By the time you actually see algae in your pool it has been growing for days.

Keep a close eye on FC consumption and Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) to see if there is anything in the water consuming chlorine.
Click to expand...

You point is well taken. I will address this today!
 

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jblizzle said:
You know you can test without the SpeedStir right? ;)

You can get the stirrer on ebay or Amazon too.
Click to expand...


For some reason I could not find on Amazon at first, so I ordered from another site. Maybe I wasn't entering the correct term in the search. Whatever, anyway I go to the pool store today and tell them about having to order one and they gave me one for free! Well, I guess I'll have a spare :)

Anyway, they gave me some more shock and a couple chlorine tabs to put in the skimmer. I got home and saw a small green spot on the bottom of the pool, and promptly grabbed our gallon of laundry bleach and poured it in the pool. I am going to leave the filter running tonight to make sure it gets distributed, AND WILL CHECK THE CHLORINE LEVEL IN THE MORNING.
 
Why do you have to go to the pool store? And why did they give you shock and tablets? I am confused. :scratch:

Those could potentially cause you more problems if your CYA is already too high?
And we certainly do not recommend putting them in the skimmer.
 
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