Ok, my motor is reinstalled, the pump, filter, everything is working wonderfully! I do need to buy some lube for the pump basket lid O-RING & filter o ring.
** unfortunately, 2days ago, I dumped in 6# of shock - dichlor I believe - before testing the water... I actually have outdated test (2014) strips, no fancy test kit.
RECENT HISTORY--I ran the pool 1st evening but turned it off at night because I was concerned it may need to be back washed in the night & I didn't want to cause any problems with the filter, it ran all day yesterday, again turning it off at night. Yesterday I backwashed it two times. This morning I backwashed it again & it's running beautifully. The water that I see in the filter basket is clear.
** however the pool water which seemed like it was clearing up - - is still green and still murky. But a lighter shade of green maybe? Certainly, the algae that I can visually see does not look white or gray.
I started reading all the stuff in the pool school section, trying to make my way through it as I can - -
just tested the water - -
CURRENT TEST READ
?where did all the chlorine go that was in the shock? Is it because the CYA is low that there is no FC? I'm new at this whole chemistry thing and apparently I'm easily confused!
It is only now after reading some of the pool school section that I realized how important the CYA is!! I never really understood that before...
Typically (in past) with my pool up & running fine, I would take in a water sample as needed to the pool store, usually when I was buying a 4 pack of chlorine, & typically it was okay. I would also test @ home with test strips, adjusting the chlorine as needed.
Ok, if you are still with me - - I have no liquid chlorine for the pool, but I did find one gallon of bleach - Walmart Great Value brand - I'm going to go dump in the pool right now! Along with 6#dichlor shock!!!
& If I understand correctly the DICHLOR shock increases the CYA in the pool?? But if I also understood some of what I was reading - - the dichlor raises the CYA quickly but doesn't always show up on the test until a week after it's been put in the pool?
I won't be able to make it to the pool store until late afternoon.
I appreciate any help regarding the pool chemistry - - what I should be adding to get rid of my swamp, and how much? I tried to do the pool math...
Also, what exactly is the difference between the chlorine I am buying at the pool store versus Walmart's Great Value brand bleach? If I understand correctly Great Value has 8.25% chlorine, & the pool store chlorine has 12%?
$$$$ So wouldn't it be better to buy the 1gal chlorine from the pool store with a higher amount of available chlorine in it? Or is it just that it is more cost-effective to buy the Great Value brand because it is cheaper? Assuming that it is cheaper --I can't remember what I paid for Great Value bleach 1 gallon. But @poolstore I pay $14/4-1gal liq chlorine.
Thanks for any help! I will dump the 1 gallon great value bleach and right now, and wait for replies before I dump anymore dichlor shock.