Newbie

ok Amazon cancelled my order due to the unavailability of the Taylor kits??? I did manage to find a Leslies Taylor kit that looks like the TF 100 kit? I don't seem to be able to upload photos so cant show you guys.
I re-did all my tests with the following results, I will retest tomorrow: FC 3 TC 3 PH 7.8, TA 170, TH 300 temp 80.
 
ok Amazon cancelled my order due to the unavailability of the Taylor kits??? I did manage to find a Leslies Taylor kit that looks like the TF 100 kit? I don't seem to be able to upload photos so cant show you guys.
I re-did all my tests with the following results, I will retest tomorrow: FC 3 TC 3 PH 7.8, TA 170, TH 300 temp 80.
The TF 100 is available at TFTestkits.net in North Carolina or from Water Testing - TFTestkit TF-100 Seven Test Kit - TF-100 in California.
 
Garry, that Leslies kit, if it's the one I'm thinking of, isn't the worst thing, but it does not have the FAS-DPD portion so widely used by many here to accurately test FC at all level to include levels over 10 ppm when needed. SO at the very least, if you already purchased a kit locally, you might want to consider the FAS-DPD portion as seen HERE. Make sure to also order the "Speed Stir"!

Couple things about your last tests posted: You must test your CYA. If that kit you have doesn't have a CYA test, you'll want to order one of those as well. The pool store almost always gets that wrong. Your proper FC level hinges on that one item. But regardless of your CYA (unless it's zero), you're probably at the lowest you want to be for FC right now. Never let it go below 3 for now. Also, your TA is a bit high which in-turn will continue to pull pH high quicker. pH is already as high as it should be. So you may want to get familiar with the TA lowering trick as noted on the Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity page.
 
Hi I had to get a Leslies Taylor test kit that i paid through the nose for, as there were no Taylor kits to be had on Amazon, they cancelled my order! anyway tested this evening FCl 3 TCl 3 CC 0? Ph 7.8, TA 170, TH 300, cya 110 (50% method) The Pool math suggests I add 20 oz of 10% bleach and 23 oz of muriatic acid the CSI says the water is balanced non aggressive? Should I just continue exchanging water my CYA must have been off the chart despite not having any obvious issues? I am a bit confused to say the least. If I understand the chemistry my Cl should have been in the region of 24 or even higher? Should I add Cl and exchange water I want to avoid any potential blooms while I am adjusting. Thanks.
 
Yes, you definitely want to lower CYA. No sense adding chemicals to water you're going to drain anyways. IN our area, I would try to get your CYA down to at least 70 before the big heat arrives. If you get the CYA lower, that's fine too as it will mean less bleach each day or during a SLAM. But do the best you can there. Once you get the CYA down to somewhere around 50-70, re-test all the other levels and adjust as necessary. If your water looks cloudy or has any tint to it at all by that time, we'll show you how to access the situation for algae in its early stages in case you need to do a "SLAM". But one thing at a time. For now, it's lowering that CYA. :)
 
just ordered the fas test thanks Texas Splash! The test looks like the 2005 or Tf 100 test kit without the FAS. My cya was 110 on the 50% water/50% pool test

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thanks guys back to the dumping water !!
 

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yep I haven't got the lamp out yet, waiting for the gasket to arrive! It seems to require just a normal halogen edison screw in bulb! So why the price difference or am I missing something? Can I use any 100w 120v T4 mini Candelabra halogen?
 
BTw have drained and refilled another 6000 gallons bring my exchange up to around 10000 galls or 60 to 65 %, The pump isnt on yet but the tests so far are: FCl 2.5, TCl 2.5, ph 7.6, TA 200, CYA 70, TH 250. The TH test was pinkish rather than red and purple rather than blue which is metal ion interference, right? Do I need to do anything about that?
Should I run the pumps first and retest or add bleach now? 48 oz

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I forgot to say thanks again, dont think i would have attempted this with out your help!
 
Your CYA is MUCH better now. If you're sure about that CYA, I would go ahead and let it start running/mixing. Add bleach to keep your FC around the 6-8 mark. Try to never let FC go below 5. pH is great. TA is high, we'll work on that shortly. Sound good?
 
ok pool looks clear, almost sparkling no smells discoloration or cloudyness: Figures Fcl 4.5 TC 3, CC 1.5? PH 7.9 to 8.0, TA 205, Th 325. I know I need to lower my PH with Muriatic acid, but my TA is more worrying. Do I drop my PH to 7.2 and then aerate ? any help thanks

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How long after i add the acid should i wait to re measure the ph?
 
Garry, I'll help with the adjusting, but need to check one thing first .... your CC (Combined Chlorine) is elevated. Often times that is an indication that the pool is overloaded with chlorine that is in transition to be oxidized. Now we've had bad weather lately and not too much sun, so we need to watch that closely to determine if you need to perform a "SLAM".

As for your questions ....your last CYA was 70, so your FC should be at 8 and never below 5. Anything below 5 means algae, so increase that with some bleach right away. Yes, lower pH with acid to about 7.6 or so. As for an elevated TA, you are correct. You do lower that TA by lowering pH even more (to about 7.0-7.2) then aerating to raise the pH back-up safely while leaving TA lower.... then repeat as necessary. Once you add chemicals, let it mix well for about 5 minutes then check again.

I would make those adjustments now, then continue to watch the water clarity and CC level. With a stronger FC level, you might be able to eliminate any excess organics in the water. Let me know if you have any more questions.
 
ok thanks I have added the CL, water looks great I will wait an hour for mixing then start aerating using the spa whirlpool jets! this is like juggling!!

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sorry did you say only wait 5 minutes? apologies I thought you would have to wait longer- but its chemistry i guess?
 

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