Converting over from Ecosmarte system

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katherineutc

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Dec 1, 2015
19
Concord, NC
Currently, our pool equipment is hooked up to the dreaded Ecosmarte copper system, installed by the home's previous owner. I haven't turned on the system at all, we purchased the house in October. We would like to switch over, preferably to a SWG. I have the Taylor TF-100 and the Taylor 1730 Copper test kits and my readings are as follows:

TA: 190
CYA: 0
PH: 7.7
CH: 525
FC: 0
Copper: Between 0.15 and 0.3

Honestly I'm just not really sure where to start, I'm a little overwhelmed. I'm concerned about the high CH and TA. I know that in order to lower CH we probably have to drain some of the pool and refill, we have well water and I'm not sure exactly how hard the water is, and I've read about liner shrinkage when you drain, etc., we really just don't know what we're doing. I'm not even sure what question I have here, but any advice would be appreciated for the newb. :)
 
Your CH is high, but not so high as to be an immediate problem. The Copper... who knows? The good news is, the solution is the same for both. Be generous when you backwash the filter and exchange some water. Over time things will dilute. And keep the pH at the lower end of the safe range. Instead of accepting 7.2>7.8 for pH, keep yours between 7.2>7.6 or so. That should prevent Calcium scale and keep the Copper in solution. It will also drive down the high TA.

You can always run a CH test on your fill water and see what it looks like. You probably already know if there's a lot of Iron in your water by the stains on the porcelain. If there isn't any large amount of Iron, you're good to go.
 
Richard320 said:
Your CH is high, but not so high as to be an immediate problem. The Copper... who knows? The good news is, the solution is the same for both. Be generous when you backwash the filter and exchange some water. Over time things will dilute. And keep the pH at the lower end of the safe range. Instead of accepting 7.2>7.8 for pH, keep yours between 7.2>7.6 or so. That should prevent Calcium scale and keep the Copper in solution. It will also drive down the high TA.

You can always run a CH test on your fill water and see what it looks like. You probably already know if there's a lot of Iron in your water by the stains on the porcelain. If there isn't any large amount of Iron, you're good to go.
Click to expand...

Great idea, why didn't I think of that... according to the test, our well water has a CH of 75 ppm.
 
Water's not too bad. I suggest you use PoolMath and calculate a dosage to get your CYA to 30 ppm. At the same time, calculate a dosage of chlorine to get to 12 ppm.....let the chlorine drift down to 3-4 ppm and then keep it there for a couple of days and see if your water clears up. I think it will.

CH and TA are not your issues - not yet, anyway.

Get that CYA in your pool right away and then get the chlorine in with that initial big dose to 12 ppm and then you will keep the chlorine around 3-4 with daily doses. Post back in a couple of days with new water pics and new test results.

read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.....it's the Bible for what we teach.

We'll help you tweak CH and TA after your pool is crystal clear.
 
Ok, I'm back -

I followed the advice and added the appropriate amounts (using Pool Math) of chlorine (used Clorox) and stabilizer (bought the liquid stuff, expensive but fast acting).

Water is clear, but I think I've got mustard algae (ugh), I came home today to white flaky looking things on the surface.

After testing, levels are below. As you can see, TA spiked as well as PH.

TA: 220
CYA: Around 35
PH: 8.0
CH: 525
FC: 12
Copper: Between 0.15 and 0.3

IMG_4097.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

deep end.jpg

It's also on the walls, when I brush it off, it comes off in a big cloud of debris, so I'm pretty sure it's mustard algae.
 

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