AA treatment questions

This is interesting to me...Run53 is also swg, and MM appears to be maintaining for him.

Run53 - since switching to swg this year, I've started making distinctions between swg treatment and non SWG treatments, but perhaps I don't need to ;) I'm learning as I go on these things.

N240, I think we still need to get a read on your level, but one of the things I liked about the ease of the Metal Magic sponge test was you just weighed down the sponge and however long it took to remove the stain dictated the treatment level. I also found it easy because of the application at 7.6 ph.

Here's the info on the sponge test: http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf

Now, to you both, just wanna say I'm a fellow experimenter here, so a few caveats as you consider treatment options...this is complicated to explain, but bear with me, because I don't wanna cause any unintended consequences with my advice:

In my own pool, on a well, with super high residual phosphate level from years of metal treatment (40,000 ppb) and other environmental factors, I have been experimenting in running my swg but was concerned about phosphate scaling, which is a weird occasional thing theorized to happen at a certain combo of very high levels that I had read about and that chem geek and I had previously discussed.

So far, its running like a champ. Its a Hayward Aqua rite t15.

Most of us on TFP now know that pool store chatter about phosphates is moot because chlorine kills algae at the right 7.5% in non swg, 5% swg) level. Further, removal products only work on orthophosphates, NOT organic phosphates, the latter of which can still feed algae IF THERE'S NO CHLORINE ;) I never once got algae at my high po4 level!

However, when it comes to scale formation, in the boiler industry, there is some data about phosphate scaling when you're in the 10s of thousands range and have calcium.

But Pentair has recently added "500 ppb orthophosphate" to its "ideal water parameters" that its warranty is based on for SWG. Frankly, some municipal water systems can have po4 almost this high due to water treatment.

1 bottle of Metal Magic contains 500 ppm polyphosphate (or so the tech told me), which could in theory over time break down into orthophosphate. Jacks I believe is even higher, since maintenance is 10-12 ppm which equals 10-12,000 ppb.

The irony here is that many swg folks find they need stain and scale control products and HEDP is by far the best. So I find Pentair's guideline a bit riddiculous.

With all of that said, there's just not very much hard data in the industry about this, and there's a lot of "boogeyman man" misinformation being espoused even by the customer service reps at places like Hayward. (I know, I called ;)

So if you decide to treat with Jacks or Metal Magic, and for any reason you later call your mfg for support, you might be told to check your phosphates.

Pool phosphate tests don't even go high enough to accurately read the levels of a high-load user like me, as I've discovered (now using a high limit Hanna meter.) So you'd be better off ignoring that kind of advice and just making them test the cell at an authorized test center. Or if your level is low enough to read, you could treat to remove annually, which some posters have mentioned doing.

Its not the "polyphosphate" itself...its when it breaks down it reverts to its base orthophosphate. Jacks tech told me that calcium helps carry out spent levels...I'm low calcium, so maybe that's why it builds up in my pool. But even Jacks admitted that in 4-6 weeks he's seen a build up in 1200 ppb range.

So far, based on other users who've been using these sequestrants for years without cell scaling problems, and in my own test to date (just a few weeks) with uber high levels, I'd say that the benefits of stain treatment far outweigh the still rather theoretical risk of phosphate scaling on a cell. I could be singing a different song by the end of the season ;)

But I felt it necessary to clue you into my odd little research project here so that
a) you could chose a high vol treatment fully informed and
b) so that if you later encounter any cell function issues and are given a customer service line about phosphates you were armed with at least my cursory information and some knowledge about the very tiny grain of possible but unlikely truth ;)
 
Great information Swampwoman. Seems like we are all experimenting with what works in our pools, although you are preforming a much more scientific experiment :).

Sounds like the best option in my situation is so monitor for staining and apply maintenance dosages as needed. I think the reason I opened to no stains this spring, was because I did the MM treatment 2 weeks before closing last September and there was probably enough MM in the water to prevent the stains. At some point the MM will be gone and I may start seeing the staining again. Especially now that I am SLAMing after the open. I've had my FC up around 20 since I've opened last Saturday but still no signs of returned stains.
 
N240, any chance you have test results yet?

Run53...That's excellent news. While the chlorine does break it down, the folks at proteam believe their formulation does cause some of he metal level to actually reduce when it bonds with the product and calcium for carry-out via filter. Typically, TFP position on this has been that this is a sketchy claim, at least to any meaningful degree, but I did find that after the large dose my need" to maintain dropped dramatically. I think N240s case, though, would suggest otherwise ;)

I've been running the swg 2 weeks and been open for 4 and have only a faint hint on the stairs if you catch it right in the light ;)

N240, when you initially dosed, how much did you use?
Have you shocked/slammed at all since? (Eg. Maybe the initial dose wore down during a slam?) Just thoughts ;)
 
Ok folks, here how is stands. Tap water is somewhere between 0-.15 mg/l iron, which I believe converts directly to ppm. Pool water is very near the same. Maybe a tiny bit more toward the .15 mg/l end, but not quite there. Copper is 0. So, ***! Why is it re-staining if there isn't much if any more metal in it than in the tap water? Last test was FC3 CYA 40, which I need to raise!, TA 50, CH 150, Ph 7.2


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N240, any chance you have test results yet?

Run53...That's excellent news. While the chlorine does break it down, the folks at proteam believe their formulation does cause some of he metal level to actually reduce when it bonds with the product and calcium for carry-out via filter. Typically, TFP position on this has been that this is a sketchy claim, at least to any meaningful degree, but I did find that after the large dose my need" to maintain dropped dramatically. I think N240s case, though, would suggest otherwise ;)

I've been running the swg 2 weeks and been open for 4 and have only a faint hint on the stairs if you catch it right in the light ;)

N240, when you initially dosed, how much did you use?
Have you shocked/slammed at all since? (Eg. Maybe the initial dose wore down during a slam?) Just thoughts ;)

My initial dose was a few weeks ago, and I used 3.5 quarts, so I'd be a little on the high side of 32k gallons. I allowed the FC to lower, added poly60, and added acid to drop ph to 7.2. The FC has not been over 4 since then.
 
You're going to want to make sure you lift the metal stains with AA and sequestrant BEFORE you dump the water. You can do several partial drains but that definitely uses more water. It sounds to me like you have a lot of iron in the water. One of the downsides of heavy sequestrant use is that the tests needed to determine actual metal concentration can be quite expensive; the sequestrant binds the iron and interferes with the tests ability to detect it. So, when sequestrant is added, people tend to think the metal is gone because the test drops to zero. In reality, the metal is still in the water, it's just bound to the sequestrant and the cheaper metal tests can't detect that.

Are you on well water or city water? Can you guarantee that your fill source will be metal free? You should definitely deal with the light fixture as well. If it's corroded you might want to consider replacing it if pulling the cord is not a hassle.

Do you plan on replacing the liner any time soon?
 
My new light arrived a couple days ago. I need to get a replacement bracket also since its corroded too. I had my city tap water tested Friday and it was less than .15ppm iron. The pool water tested just a tad higher, but still under .15ppm. That's with the 5 quarts of metal magic, so who knows what's really in there. The liners gonna be another 3 years hopefully. Is .15 ppm a problem amount?


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Technically, the rule of thumb is that iron will stain at .3ppm so you're under that.
However, high ph or FC IME change that ;)

My best guess is that the high ph inside the swg cell, not the pool, might be causing your low levels to oxidize?

Given the degree of stain over winter, I'd guess that with .15 in your fill water, evaporation, etc. that your actual metal level that you're managing could indeed be higher but the sequestrant is interfering with the test.

Metal testing seems at best a dark art to me ;)

Are you going to try the Jacks Purple? Or are you thinking about diluting a bit first? I realize you'd be adding more iron...
 
I just called the water company, and they said the iron is so low that it's basically undetectable. I'm gonna throw in some more AA, lift the stains, and dump some water. Dropping to a foot in the shallow end will get probably 35-40% of the water, and that same amount of iron. I may try the jack's after the refills. I don't look forward to dropping another $100 on a magic potion.


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I was just calling around to see if any of the local stores carry jack's. The first place I called didn't carry it. They did tell me it could be low calcium causing staining. She never asked what the pool surface was, so maybe that could be a thing on a non liner pool. Then she told me to check the cell because when they go bad they can add copper. How is a titanium cell going to add copper to the water?


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Almost done with the first water dump. A rough estimate is 12,000 gallons.
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I'm refilling from my second water dump. I went to 12" in the shallow end on the first one, and accidentally went to 10" on the second one. Should be refilled sometime this afternoon. Now I need to get some salt and CYA.


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I have salt in the pool, and about half the CYA I need. I'm gonna get it tomorrow. The pool has a tiny bit of cloudiness, my wife says it's clear, but I'm more sensitive. In another day it should be good. I tested ph and FC today. Hopefully tomorrow I'll test the rest besides CYA. I added about 1.5lbs of AA right before the dumps. The steps are brilliant white, as well as all other previously stained plastic on that end of the pool. The deep end skimmer has a little staining remaining. I may get a bottle of vitamin C and get rid of that, and see when/if anything comes back. My wife wanted the cheaper/easier route. Instead of spending $100 on more magic potions, we spent $75 on water, and $115 on salt and CYA. We'll see how it goes. BTW, I should've bought the next size bigger pulling grip. This thing was hard to get on there. Probably gonna work it on a little further. Still waiting on the mounting plate and spacer.
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Good morning. I finally had a chance to check in on your thread. I hope the drain nails it for you!

Re:
They did tell me it could be low calcium causing staining
Having some calcium even though your liner is vinyl is, according to the jacks tech, supposed to help the sequestrant work. He recommended 200 ppm. I fill with soft water due to well, so I still need to add more.

Metals also note refer with calcium reading, but you can improve that by adding 6 drops of r12 before adding the r10, just so you know ;)

I was thinking about how odd your situation was being on city water. Do you do your own wan fertilization, or do you contract someone? If you contract someone and their not careful, this can be a source of iron, just so you know.

Btw, I just used a single bottle of jacks purple, first sequestering of the season and at half dose but the steps were getting more staining than I can stand...almost immediate bright white on fixtures. My anecdotal sense says that its true that the purple is highly effective in high TDS water so I think you have a fallback plan at any rate ;)
 
Here's my yard crew. No chemicals there.
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As of yesterday the staining was still gone from the little bit of AA that I used before the dump. As of today, we're back to staining, but it is significantly lighter than it was before.
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I've got a party lined up for Memorial Day weekend, so I guess I'll be getting some jack's.


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After thinking about the staining for a few minutes, I remembered that yesterday the ph was very close to 7.5 with the fresh water; maybe slightly under. I wonder if the stains would relift if I drop the ph back down to 7.2. I may try that in the morning. I'd rather not have to drop another $80 on sequestrant just yet.


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Thanks! I've had "words" with the silkie rooster in the background the last two mornings. He has tried to get after my kids for a little while now, but he figured out that I wasn't going to be messed with.
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