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Thread: Question on TA and CYA

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    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Montgomery, TX
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    Question on TA and CYA

    Morning,

    Thanks to Trouble Free Pools since my last SLAM in July my pool has been crystal clear. As discussed multiple times on the forums as long as you keep up the proper levels and testing the TFP method works!! As we approach summer in TX I do have a few questions as I have recently been verifying my test results by having a pool store verify my testing results.

    I have been using a combination of Trichlor pucks and liquid bleach to maintain FC levels. Usually add 2 pucks a week and try to maintain FC with liquid bleach. I know I should refrain from using any pucks....

    My test results as of 4.15.16 are as follows:

    FC - 6. Need to increase this to 7 as per pool school
    CC - 0
    CH - 275
    TA - 100
    PH - 7.8
    CYA - 90

    Pool Store Test Results:

    FC - 5
    CH - 224
    TA - 90
    Adjusted TA - 60. I am not quite sure how this varies from the above TA.
    TDS - 700
    CYA - 99
    Phosphates - 300

    Questions are as follows:
    1) At what point should I be concerned about the 90+ CYA level. Is it time to drain and do a partial refill prior to the TX summer really starting??
    2) TA @ 90 is low as per pool school. Should I attack this now by adding backing soda or worry about the CYA first and tackle that.
    3) For the phosphates as I have read this should be left alone. Store is calling out for 5 capfuls of Pool Complete as part of weekly maintenance.

    Visual of Pool - No signs of visible algae and the pool looks crystal clear when the sun is shinning. Have had a bunch of rain and overcast days lately.

    Thanks in advance for the tips and advice.
    39,460 Gallon Gunite outdoor in-ground, Pebble Tec, 37' W x 38'6" L, Attached Spa and slide, Pentair Clean and Clear Plus Cartridge Filter, 2- Pentair Sta Rite Variable speed pumps, Pentair Sta Rite 3.0 hp Max E Pro, Paramount PCC 2000 In Floor Cleaning and Circulation system, Rainbow Chlorinator, Paramount O3 Ozonator and Trident UV

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    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: Question on TA and CYA

    Why do you continue to use pucks if you're also using liquid chlorine? Those pucks are raising your CYA. You might want to drain some of the pool and refill to lower that CYA. Use Pool Math to determine how much, assuming you'll want to keep a CYA of about 40- 50 in that hot Tejas sun.

    Ignore the Pool Store results. And ignore any advice about phosphates unless you *like* spending money unnecessarily?? As long as your pool is algae free because you keep your FC at the right levels you won't have any need for an expensive bottle of magic potion to pour in weekly.

    Your TA is fine if your pH remains stable. I see your pH is a skosh on the high end, so dropping it down to about 7.5 with MA will reduce your TA slightly. Those two levels play a balancing act and if your pH is stable leave it alone. If you raise the TA, your pH will tend to creep up repeatedly.
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    cowboycasey's Avatar
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    Re: Question on TA and CYA

    hey there, we recommend knowing what your putting into your pool knowing is half the battle, right, so as long as you know every puck is adding CYA.

    1, now, with a CYA at 90 your in SWG range, about 40 over what you really need for TX. Can you make it work, yes, but only if you stop using pucks...
    You should be targeting a fc of 10 and not letting it go below fc7.. if you do have an outbreak you are looking at SLAMing at fc above 32

    2. TA of 100 is a little high but as long as your PH is not rising fast its fine.
    PH needs to be lowered to 7.5/6 or so

    3. as long as FC is kept above 7 don't worry about this..

    Can you drain some and refill and keep using pucks, yes, as long as you know that is something you will have to continue to do every 2 to 3 months...

    Hope this helps
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    Re: Question on TA and CYA

    if your pool is clean and you plan to pay attention to it, CYA of 90 is fine. You will use at most the same amount of chlorine as you would at a CYA of 50 or 60, if anything slightly less (because you are only adding what the sun burned off every day). You will use more chorine testing supplies, but for each time you do the test, you'll use 14-18 drops or so instead of 8-12. It adds up, but still probably less than refilling half the pool.

    CYA of 90 will really hurt you if you let the pool go and get algae, as then you need a lot of bleach to get rid of the algae.

    If you are "worried" about the TA, you can bring it down by taking your pH to 7.2, letting it drift back up to 7.8, then adding acid again. But, you only need to be "worried" about TA if either your pH is rising quickly (need acid more than once a week..more a hassle than a concern), or if your CSI is off and reducing TA would be the best option for adjusting it.

    Use pool math to enter your pool volume (no commas!), your pool type, and enter all your current test results, and the CSI will tell you if you have a potential problem.

    Stop going to the pool store. Your tests are accurate.
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    Re: Question on TA and CYA

    How are you home testing? What kit are you using?

    Edit: never mind. I looked back in your history and saw that you have the TF-100.

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    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Montgomery, TX
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    Re: Question on TA and CYA

    Quote Originally Posted by MarianParoo View Post
    How are you home testing? What kit are you using?

    Edit: never mind. I looked back in your history and saw that you have the TF-100.
    Thanks for all the tips. I will stop using the tricolor pucks and maintain with liquid bleach.

    Will also monitor the CYA and determine if I need to drain in the next week or two in order to get a good start to the season.
    39,460 Gallon Gunite outdoor in-ground, Pebble Tec, 37' W x 38'6" L, Attached Spa and slide, Pentair Clean and Clear Plus Cartridge Filter, 2- Pentair Sta Rite Variable speed pumps, Pentair Sta Rite 3.0 hp Max E Pro, Paramount PCC 2000 In Floor Cleaning and Circulation system, Rainbow Chlorinator, Paramount O3 Ozonator and Trident UV

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