Maintaining pool levels

[dshuster]

>>>>>How did you add the stabilizer?
Based on the directions, it said to add it through the skimmer. Was that correct?

>>>>What level were you targeting?
I was looking at a target level of 30 for CYA.

Can I do a CYA test or do I need to wait a couple of days to register?

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[jblizzle]

That is not how we recommend adding the stabilizer. The CYA will show up on the test after it has dissolved, but now that it is in your filter, how can you tell when it is dissolved? Also if you backwash now, then you will be pumping out some of the undissolved CYA.

It is situations like these that led to the recommendation to wait a week before testing, since it is unclear when it will all be dissolved.

Just assume your CYA is 30ppm for now and SLAM.

 

[dshuster]

Jason,

Thanks for the helpful information. The manufacturer needs to read troublefreepool.com before they post directions on their labels because what you explained makes a lot of sense.

Btw, for my own knowledge how should have I added the stabilizer?

Thanks again,
-Dimitry

 

[Texas Splash]

Generally, to increase CYA via granular stabilizer, we place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and suspend it near a return jet or in the skimmer. Best not to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level, although the test readings may take anywhere from 24 hours to a few days to fully register. Confirm CYA in about one week before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[pooldv]

In post #13 above I posted this link on how to add CYA, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[dshuster]

I finally received my hose and vacuum so now I can clean up the mess in the pool. It is definitely a challenge when you do not have the right tools at hand.

My questions are as follows:
1)I bought a 45 ft hose with a 1/2 inch connector and when I tried to connect it to my skimmer port after removing the basket, it seems a little loose. Is that normal or should it be snug fit?

2)I have a polaris 380 which I am not using right now since I do not want to destroy it with all the algae, can I connect the hose to the polaris connection to manually vacuum? Also, where would I get the connector that would connect the hose to the polaris port on the wall?

3)When I manually vacuum, do you recommend vacuuming to waste to not clog up my DE filter?

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[dshuster]

Tonight I checked my levels and feel like I am stuck and it is not improving.

The levels were as follows:
PH of 6.8 or less and CL between 1 and 2.

When I did the Chlorine Drop Test, I used the SpeedStir Magnetic Stirrer and after I added a heaping scoop of R-0870 powder, the solution turned light pink (almost like diluted pink lemonade). Then after adding just one drop of R-0871, it turned clear and then after 30 seconds, it went back to light pink.

I did not test for CC but the CYA Test was showing right below 20.

The pool is still green so I added 8 more gallons of Liquid Chlorine (10%) to the pool.

Does all this make sense or am I doing something wrong.

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[pooldv]

It doesn't seem like you are following the SLAM process as outlined here, Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

What is your target FC level?
How often do you test and add more bleach/chlorine?
How often are you brushing?
Why was FC less than 2?
How long was it less than 2?
When was the last time you tested and added before it measured 2?
While FC was below 10 it would have been good to raise PH to 7.2.
How many ppm of FC does 8 gal of 10% add to your pool?
Are you using Poolmath to calculate your dosage?

 

[dshuster]

>>>>What is your target FC level?
4 for Target and 12 for Shock

>>>>How often do you test and add more bleach/chlorine?
Once a day until the weekend which I can do more

>>>>How often are you brushing?
Once a day. I cannot see the bottom of the pool at the deep end. Have not received the manual vacuum so I have not been vacuuming. When I brush it seems as if the algae is stuck to the walls and difficult to come off.

>>>>Why was FC less than 2?
Not sure but think my CYA is off. Do I first have to figure out how to bring the CYA up to 30?

>>>>How long was it less than 2?
Since I started testing

>>>>When was the last time you tested and added before it measured 2?
Last night

>>>>While FC was below 10 it would have been good to raise PH to 7.2.
I thought PH is not accurate during SLAM. Should I use borax or soda ash to raise it?

>>>>How many ppm of FC does 8 gal of 10% add to your pool?
Each jug holds about 128 oz of 10% bleach x 8 jugs = 1024 oz
For 28000 Gallons of water, Pool Math says raise FC by 29

When I set FC to 2 and goal to 12 and 10% bleach with 128 Jug size, it says to add 358 oz of chlorine bleach.

Are you using Poolmath to calculate your dosage?
Yes....I just hope I am calculating everything correctly.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Texas Splash]

Not sure but think my CYA is off. Do I first have to figure out how to bring the CYA up to 30?

You definitely need to figure this one out. It drivers the whole SLAM process.

Proper lighting is important for the CYA test. You want to test for CYA outside on a sunny day, but keep the skinny view tube in the shade. Taylor recommends standing in the sun with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.

>>>>How long was it less than 2?
Since I started testing

That's simply too low. You'll have to maintain your daily target or SLAM/Shock value if doing a SLAM

>>>>While FC was below 10 it would have been good to raise PH to 7.2.
I thought PH is not accurate during SLAM

We don't' test pH during a SLAM only because the FC is usually "higher" than 10. In your case your FC was low, so you can test/adjust pH as needed.

When I set FC to 2 and goal to 12 and 10% bleach with 128 Jug size, it says to add 358 oz of chlorine bleach.

That is correct. To increase FC by 10 for your pool, you will need just under 4 jugs of bleach (about 3 gal/3qts to be exact).

So first, before you raise FC, test and adjust pH right away. If still SLAMming, adjust to about 7.2 (borax or soda ash make it go up, acid make it go down). Test (as noted above) CYA to make sure where your CYA is at, then adjust FC to the proper SLAM level. Hope that helps.

 

[kimkats]

If there is any way possible you need to test and add FC at least 3 times a day. I hope you might even be able to do 4 time. Try this:

-morning after coffer started

-as soon as home after shoes are off

-after dinner

-right before bed

I hope you can get ahead of the algae soon. Things will get easier when you can.

Kim:cat:

 

[pooldv]

Ok, that all sounds pretty good. Except adding chlorine once per day, at least twice would be a lot better. Here is what I would do now.

Enter your numbers into Poolmath and enter PH Now at 6.8 and Target at 7.2 and add the amount of Borax suggested.
Add 10ppm of CYA in a sock and give it a squeeze occasionally to help it dissolve.
Dose your FC to a target of 12 or 14. Putting 28 ppm of chlorine in the pool doesn't really help much. Being that far over shock level just wastes it and makes it dissipate faster.

Two things make a SLAM go faster, frequency of adding bleach to shock level and brushing. The rest is just patience.

 

[dshuster]

So I have been at it morning and night.

Here is what I did:
-Change DE from Circulate to Filter with backwashing in between
-Vacuumed using waste
-The water turned clear but have a lot of dark green Algae spots (the whole back wall in the deep end especially). I will put up pictures tomorrow
-I have been brushing morning and night.
-My numbers are as follows:
Water Temp: 60 F
FC: 14
PH: 7.2
TA: 120
CH: 220
CYA: Around 35
CC: 1.0

The pool school says to keep the pool at 12 Shock Level for CYA 30 and 16 Shock Level for CYA 40. So I made my Shock Level around 14.

My questions are as follows:
The last couple of days the FC has been around 12-14 because it was cold and rainy here so I did not have to add Chlorine. I did not want to add more Chlorine just for the sake of it.

Am I on track or should I be doing something more?

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning Dimitry. When the CYA is in between whole numbers like that, we find it best to round it "up" to be safe since there is a +/- 15 testing variable. So I would recommend using the FC of 16 based on a rounded-up CYA of 40. Everything else you are doing sound really good. I suspect now it's just a matter of letting the bleach (and time) do its thing. When the water warms-up, you may need to look behind any light fixtures you have. If you have a large light, algae often grows behind it in the niche. Good luck and have a nice day.

 

[dshuster]

So I did another test this morning:
Water Temp: 60 F
FC: 17.5
PH: 7.5
TA: 130
CH: 210
CYA: Around 29
CC: 1.0
Filter pressure: 12 (which is around what it was last year)

The pool looks clear but still a lot of algae on the walls. Pictures attached.

The shock level for CYA 30 is 12 but I have it at 17.5. Do I just have to be patient or add more chlorine?

Thanks again,
-Dimitry

 

[Mr Bruce]

I would recommend letting the FC fall to 12 and keeping it there. And lots of brushing. Also you can skip all the tests but FC and CC until your SLAM is over.

I am assuming these are results from one of the recommended test kits. I see you are.

e: I'm going to quit and have another coffee.

 

[dshuster]

I feel like I am at my wits end.

So I did another test last night:
Water Temp: 60 F
FC: 17.5
CC: 1.0

This morning the test was:
Water Temp: 60 F
FC: 15.5
CC: 1.0

I have been brushing and brushing but it does not seem like it will come off. Either the brushes I bought are not the right ones or my muscle power is not strong enough to take this algae off.

I do not remember the pool guy having this much trouble when he did it last year.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks
-Dimitry

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning Dimitry. One thing is for sure ... algae cannot survive for extended periods of time in water that is properly chlorinated unless either the CYA/FC ratio is off, or there is a hiding spot somewhere in the pool that allows the algae to hide and regenerate. Let's confirm a few things:
- Have you tested your CYA in the bright light outside lately to ensure an accurate CYA reading?
- Have you been backwashing the filter every time the pressure increase by 25%?
- Scrubbing is of course required to expose the surface of algae attached to walls; steel bristles are probably best for cured plaster
- Pump has been running 24/7 with good circulation to all areas?
- Have you pulled that light out and checked behind it in the niche for algae?
Based on the FC drop overnight and elevated CC reading, your bleach is still battling algae. I would encourage you to continue the SLAM, see if any of comments sound new to you, and/or review the SLAM page thoroughly just to ensure you're not missing something else I didn't mention. That's a very nice pool you have there, so we'd like to see it cleared up as well.

 

[poolneophyte]

I just read through the entire thread from the beginning and I'm thinking that your CYA level is higher than you think. If I recall correctly, you initially thought that CYA <20. You then added enough CYA to target 30 through the skimmer while the filter was set to recirculate. Therefore, that stabilizer was returned back into the pool and would eventually dissolve. In post #32, pooldv recommended adding another 10ppm of CYA. Did you do that? Did I capture the chain of events correctly?

I think that you should do another CYA test after enough time that it has been dissolved and really see what the level is. This is the most difficult and subjective test to perform. It is also the most important test when doing a SLAM because the CL level depends on it. If the CYA level is higher than you think, you may not be using the appropriate CL level to kill the algae and are just prolonging the process.

Hope this helps.

 

[dshuster]

Thanks for all your advice.

Maybe I am just impatient but my wife says it looks a lot better than the pictures I posted on post #35.

When I brush, I do not see anything come off like when you are washing something in the house. I thought the chlorine was supposed to turn it white and the brush would wipe it away.

I just did another test and my results are as follows:
Water Temp: 62 F (I thought I read somewhere that you should do the test when the water warms to 70 or above for accurate results)
FC: 13.0
CC: 0.5
CYA: 30 (This test is so vague...When the CYA was at 40 on the test tube, I could still see the black dot barely but at 30, it was totally gone.) I hope I am doing this test correctly.

Filter pressure: 15 (the old pressure gauge was showing 12 and had water in it so I replaced it and am not sure if the old one was wrong or pressure actually went up).

Thanks again,
-Dimitry

p.s. I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track.