Ascorbic acid treatment question

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Seanhan

Seanhan

0
Mar 5, 2013
300
Fort Worth Texas
I plan on doing a AA treatment to remove some iron stains, and then drain my pool for some general maintance. Last time I did the AA treatment I added 3 bottles of Jacks Magic Purple Stuff then drained and rinsed the pool and pumped out all the water. I want to know if I can not add the Jacks Magic and just pump out all the water. Will the iron go out with the water and not stay in the pool and come back ??
Thanks for any info...
 
That is a good question ! Can the pool store do a iron test ? My tf100 does not have a iron test. I had the same problem last year.. Thinking I left my SWG on in the fall when it got cooler and when I checked it in November the clorine was 15-18..I was thinking that caused my heater too leach some iron .. But I don't know for sure . Ascorbic makes the pool look brand new ..
 
Yes, take it to the pool store to test it. Iron can't leach from a heater. Only copper and only if PH is very low. Below 7 for an extended period. The most likely source for iron is well water.

edit: check that answer, some old heater do have cast iron heat exchangers. So, it is possible.
 
pooldv said:
Yes, take it to the pool store to test it. Iron can't leach from a heater. Only copper and only if PH is very low. Below 7 for an extended period. The most likely source for iron is well water.

edit: check that answer, some old heater do have cast iron heat exchangers. So, it is possible.
Click to expand...

I took sample to the pool store tonight and he tested it with a strip and said no iron some slight copper
And that was water out of the hose. ( fill water )

But they did switch the source of our city water after the drought ended, so it could have had iron then ..
IDK ??? My heater is 1 year old ..
Going to rent the big gas pump at Home Depot tomorrow and pump sunday, ascorbic acid should be here tomorrow from amazon .. Question after i fill it up with the hose do i really need to SLAM the pool or can i just get my clorine up to 5 with the liquid i bought and try to get the SWG to take over.
Thanks...
 
Sounds good. Try adding a second hose from another spigot, it will fill faster. If you don't have algae now you can fill without SLAMing. If it is questionable you can give it a try and see how chlorine holds. Maybe keep your CYA down toward 40 or 50 for a week or so just in case to help make it easier if you do.
 
PoolDv: I have a question about CH , My pool is Gunite but serveral years ago we had it Fiber Tech coated instead of re-plastered.. I do still have Tile around the top egde of the pool ... I also use a SWG.. QUestion is does CH matter in my pool.
It is fiberglass kinda .. Do i use the fiberglass recamended level of 220-320 or does it really mater ?????
Thanks....
 
How come I can't remember that you are the flamed on pool surface guy? :) I love that stuff. Can't wait for some long term updates on it. I would try to keep it at 250ish or higher just for the grout.

Have you read about CSI yet? After you enter your test results, including water temp, into Poolmath it will calculate your CSI. You want to keep your CSI slightly on the negative side, -0.1 to -0.2. This will prevent any calcium scaling in your SWG or on your pool surface. CSI is impacted by PH, TA and CH. You can play with those numbers in the target fields and see how it changes the CSI number.

More here
Pool School - Calcium Scaling
and here
Langelier and Calcite Saturation Indices (LSI and CSI)
 

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pooldv said:
How come I can't remember that you are the flamed on pool surface guy? :) I love that stuff. Can't wait for some long term updates on it. I would try to keep it at 250ish or higher just for the grout.

Have you read about CSI yet? After you enter your test results, including water temp, into Poolmath it will calculate your CSI. You want to keep your CSI slightly on the negative side, -0.1 to -0.2. This will prevent any calcium scaling in your SWG or on your pool surface. CSI is impacted by PH, TA and CH. You can play with those numbers in the target fields and see how it changes the CSI number.

More here
Pool School - Calcium Scaling
and here
Langelier and Calcite Saturation Indices (LSI and CSI)
Click to expand...


Thanks i will check the CSI.
The fiber-tech coating has been great so far about 10 years old now.
We had the original Anthonys diamond dust plaster from 1983 and it got really rough .
Started getting quotes on re-plaster, They ran from 5K to 12k
A friend got his pool re-plastered and it started falling off 2 weeks after they did it , and they would not stand behind the warranty for some reason . AFter hearing that i started looking for plaster alternatives and found fiber tech here in Ft. Worth .. They did the pool and spa for aroung 5-6k if i remember correctly including new deck seal and epoxy paint on the cool deck.
It has held up well still looks new ( except for the iron stains that i will get rid of in about 2 hours )
The company is call G&S renovations.
 
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