Shelf Life for testing components (test numbers added 5/3)

[graffster]

Hi TFP friends!
I made it through the winter without killing my pool!! (I live in Florida, so there was no 'closing' it...didn't know just how we'd do!!!) Anyway, it's Spring, and we're back at it!! I have to admit, though, I didn't test my water over those months.

I got ready to test today (think i may be 'brewing' something!) When i went to use the R 0870 powder, it didn't turn my water pink. I didn't know if that's because my water is out of balance or there's an issue with the powder. Is there a shelf-life on the parts in the TF-100? I purchased the kit in August 08.

I didn't test any further until I hear from you all what my problem may be.

Thanks in advance,
Kathy

 

[mdhwoods]

Re: Shelf Life for testing components

I believe both that kit and the Taylor kit has a recommended shelf life of a year.

Mike

 

[mas985]

Re: Shelf Life for testing components

If there is no chlorine in the water it won't turn pink. I have had reagents last several years so I suspect that you may not have any chlorine in the water. Have you checked the chlorine with the OTO kit?

 

[graffster]

Re: Shelf Life for testing components

Is the OTO kit the one with the yellow and red sides? I did that and it showed no chlorine. So that may be my problem!! I did just pour a jug of bleach in there, but I may need to do more. I have a SWG that I don't really understand. My salt level is good and the chlorinator is set at 55%. Do i need to boost that? What do i need to do from here?

Thanks for the quick responses.

Kathy

 

[mas985]

Re: Shelf Life for testing components

Yes, the yellow test is for chlorine (OTO) so you probably don't have any chlorine in the pool and you need to find out why. 55% setting for that size pool should be enough assuming everything is working properly. There could be several reasons why you don't have chlorine:

1- No CYA in the pool so all the chlorine is being destroyed by the sunlight. What is your CYA?

2- You may have a slight algae bloom using up the chlorine. If the CYA is ok and the chlorine you just added gets used up quickly, then you may have a slight algae bloom which needs to be killed with lots of liquid chlorine.

3- If none of the above applies then your SWG may not be working properly.

Post all of your test results and maybe we can figure it out.

 

[graffster]

Re: Shelf Life for testing components

Thanks Mark. I'll test sometime tomorrow and post those results. I remember last fall having a difficult time with the CYA, so i wouldn't be surprised to see that really low. And I did notice a little bit of 'green' on my steps and in a corner or two. So I may have a couple of things going on in there!!! :x But I also know that i am in the right place to get it back to normal!!! :-D

I'll post tomorrow evening and await further insturction...

 

[JasonLion]

Re: Shelf Life for testing components

One other possibility, rather less likely than the ones mas985 mentioned, is if your water is very cold. Some brands of SWG turn off when the water is cold, typically when the water is below 50 degrees.

 

[graffster]

Re: Shelf Life for testing components (numbers added Sunday 5/3

OK...here are my numbers: (Sample taken at 7 pm)

FC 0
CC .5
TC .5
pH 8.2
T/A 170
CH 200
CYA <20 (I could never 'not' see the dot!)
water temp around 85
Salt 3690

I've got 3 big bottles of bleach that I'm ready to put in. But I obviously need some other things, too! Help!!!

thanks, Kathy

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

First you need Muratic Acid to lower the PH to 7.4 . Then you can shock with the bleach. Disregard high PH levels you will see when shocking. Wait until FC is below 10 to test the ph again.

You'll need to add CYA to raise your level to 70.

When your FC is holding and the SWG is working, you'll need to lower the TA to 70-90. Read the article in Pool School about lowering TA.

Hope this helps

 

[duraleigh]

I've got 3 big bottles of bleach that I'm ready to put in.

FPM has given you the sequence and process. I would add that you will need a lot more bleach. At least 10 of the very large jugs minimum.....more will not hurt you.......you can always use it. Do not count on your SWG to shock the pool. The bleach will do that if you use enough of it.

Be sure to read how to shock up in Pool School before you start.. :-D

 

[JasonLion]

As to the lifetime of the test kit reagents: if properly stored (dark and cool but not frozen) the reagents should last several years. If they freeze or get left out in direct sunlight the lifetime will be much much shorter.

 

[graffster]

Thanks FPM, Duraleigh and JasonLion! You guys make it really easy to ask questions!

I'm going to go add the MA right now and run out and get more bleach!

I do have another question on where to buy some of the other supplies needed (like MA and CYA). I have a Pinch-a-Penny, a Lowe's and a Home Depot, all within a 5 mile radius. Is there a place i can do my "one-stop-shopping" and get the things I need? (We have 5 kids...I try to limit my stops as much as possible :lol: )

JasonLion, I don't think it's my reagents that were the problem...not having an CL in the pool was!!

I'll keep you posted on my progress! Thanks again!!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

If those stores have Pool/spa departments they may have stabilizer. For certain they will have Muratic Acid but you may have to ask them where in the store it is stocked. Wal-Mart carries it stabilizer, HTH brand, look for it in the seasonal department usually by the intex pool stuff. I'm not familiar with pinchapenny so I can't advise.

 

[reebok]

unfortunately you'll need to check prices at all the stores. you can do this by phone though. I have a similar set up (3 pool stores, super walmart, sams, lowes and home depot within 4 miles) and I'm pretty sure pinch a penny beats all of them for muriatic acid, and definitely for chlorine/bleach. I would definitely get chlorine from the pool store as I can almost guarantee you will get a better deal (I'm talking about the 2.5 gallon jug refills). and sign up for the pinch a penny weekly/monthly deals at their website if you haven't already. leslies has deals also if you have one of those nearby. also, at least here, leslies is more expensive on the chlorine refills, but they offer buy 2 get 1 free deals more often, and there is the buy 10 get 1 free punch card they have. it will take a little research, but you'll be able to find the best deals. good luck.

 

[graffster]

OK, I'm shocking away!! (I'm in that group of "what is the recycling man going to say about all these bleach bottles???" ) I did read the "How to Shock" in pool school, but I'm one of those that STILL has a question (I think i have ADD and it keeps me from being able to consume all that info. Plus, all that bleach HAS to have an effect on you!!)

To make sure I know what i'm doing: I need to keep the shock level at what the pool calc told me until it no longer decreases over night, right? So when I dump bleach in last night and then this morning it's gone, i need to repeat throughout the day until it holds. Now, I also haven't added CYA. do I understand not to add that until the 'shock treatment' is over??? (Because I know CYA is what keeps your CL from being used... :? ) I'm probably making this FAR more difficult than I need to...

Basically, I'm not worrying about the other numbers until I get the CL squared away.

Also, should i just turn my SWG off while I'm shocking? Or is it producing something that's beneficial? (I am supposed to "check cell"...but that's another thread....)

Feeling a bit overwhelmed...

kathy

(one more question popped up: I'm just testing with the OTO (with the yellow and red sides) while I'm shocking...not using the powder and drops in the TF1000...is that OK?) (sorry I can't remember what they all are!!!!!!!)

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

It's common to feel overwhelmed at this point. No worries.

First off, you shouldn't try to run your SWG without CYA in your pool.

Go ahead and add CYA as I instructed above, or any chlorine added will be entirely consumed by the UV rays. Do you know how to add the CYA?

Otherwise I think you have it.

Shock with Liquid Chlorine, keep it up to shock level till it holds overnight, and this can take frequent chlorine additions. More frequent when there is no CYA.

Remember, after you add the CYA, it will take a week to fully dissolve and register on tests. But after 48 hours, you can assume the CYA is in there and your shock level will increase dramatically. So for now you should be shocking to 10 FC, but after the CYA addition that should more than double. See the CYA Chlorine Chart.

Hope this helps.

 

[graffster]

Thanks FPM!!!

I'll go this afternoon and get the CYA. (What exactly am I looking for? Will it be a liquid? A powder? Will it say CYA right on it??? I remember looking for some last summer and got a little confused :? ...it takes so little to confuse me!!) And then just follow directions on it for adding it to the pool? I know i need to clean my filter before so that I don't need to back wash after adding it.

Now to figure out how to turn the SWG off... :?: :?:

Thanks again for the hand-holding. You guys are the BEST!!! :-D

 

[JasonLion]

CYA is sold under various names, the two most common are "stabilizer" and "conditioner". It should say cyanuric acid somewhere on the label in the fine print. It is usually a solid, but there is a much more expensive liquid version available some places. The solid takes a long time to dissolve, which can be annoying. The liquid is already dissolved, so basically instant.