My pump has stopped running. When it tries to start, all I hear is a hum for about 10 sec then nothing. I read in another thread that it could be the capacitor so I pulled it out but it tested ok. I hate to replace a motor if I don't need to. Any thoughts?
Brief humming from pump motor
- Thread starter dlwxman
- Start date
That sounds about right to me. If the capacitor is good then the switch might not be making contact. The way it works is when the motor first starts, the capacitor is connected to it, through the switch. As the motor gets closer to full speed, the centrifugal part of the switch, pulls away the connection and removes the capacitor from the motor. If it is stuck or dirty, it does not make good enough contact to get the motor moving. So it just sits and hums, eventually the internal thermo switch kicks in and shuts it down so it can cool off.
If you need more specific help on how to check or fix it, please take and post some pics of the back of the motor with the cover off. That way we can see which style and where to look for the issue.
If you need more specific help on how to check or fix it, please take and post some pics of the back of the motor with the cover off. That way we can see which style and where to look for the issue.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Did you inspect the switch?
Does the impeller or motor shaft spin freely?
Also, you said you tested the capacitor but exactly how did you do that?
Does the impeller or motor shaft spin freely?
Also, you said you tested the capacitor but exactly how did you do that?
Forgive my ignorance but I don't know what the switch looks like. Can you describe it based on the posted pic?
What's the best way to get to the impeller or motor shaft? I took out the basket and probed around. If the impeller is what I think it is then it was difficult to reach with my fingers. I'm guessing I need to get into the motor more to get to the motor shaft.
I went to an electrical supply store to buy a new capacitor. They tested it and found it to be functional.
What's the best way to get to the impeller or motor shaft? I took out the basket and probed around. If the impeller is what I think it is then it was difficult to reach with my fingers. I'm guessing I need to get into the motor more to get to the motor shaft.
I went to an electrical supply store to buy a new capacitor. They tested it and found it to be functional.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The switch sits over the motor shaft and is the up side down V shaped object. It has copper contacts and there is a grey plastic insulating the contacts. The square metal object with springs directly connected to the motor shaft is the governor and that moves up and down to open and close the switch which is right above it. BTW, the switch looks to be in fairly good condition so that may not be the problem.
You can try and turn the governor to see if the motor shaft is frozen to the bearings. It should spin easily.
You have power cut right?
You can try and turn the governor to see if the motor shaft is frozen to the bearings. It should spin easily.
You have power cut right?
borjis
LifeTime Supporter
Thanks for the input. The pump filter basket was full of flower petals etc from a recent storm. It doesn't usually fill up very quickly so I didn't think to check it. I'll check the shaft/impeller more in depth. Thanks again.
Okay now I have the pump taken apart and have removed the impeller. The impeller won't move at all. I cleaned it out as best I can but I still doesn't turn. Is this normal? Will replacing the motor solve the problem?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Do you mean the motor shaft will not rotate? If so, that is not normal. It sounds like the bearings are seized. You can either replace the bearings if you feel up to it or just replace the motor. Might be a good time to upgrade to a two speed motor.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Basically, the reverse of taking apart.
But to control speeds requires either a manual switch or a dual timer (on/off + speed change). Do you have a timer or controller already?
But to control speeds requires either a manual switch or a dual timer (on/off + speed change). Do you have a timer or controller already?
I have a controller box with a timer but I don't know that it supports 2 speeds. The problem I have is that this pump has already been out for a week and I'm leaving tomorrow on vacation for a week. So far the water looks fine but I don't want an algae bloom waiting for me when I get back. I bought a single speed a few days ago just in case I needed to replace so it's ready to go. I also have replacement seals to replace since everything is taken apart.
Now one last thing. I have the new pump motor installed and it runs but looking from the back it appear to be turning the wrong direction. From the front it should be turning clockwise so looking from behind the motor the shaft should be turning counterclockwise. I switched the red and black wires but didn't affect the direction. What am I doing wrong?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Looking at the impeller blades makes it appear that clockwise would grab and move the water if they rotated clockwise from the front. Also now concerned that my electrical connections may not be right. The Century website says to be sure they're correct or the motor could be ruined but the instructions say NOTHING about how to correctly connect them. The electrical stuff at the back of the motor doesn't look like the old motor so I'm perplexed. Old one appeared to be set at 230 and the new one was set at 230 so I just need to find out where the red and black wires go. Don't want the motor to burn out on me. I'm getting frustrated because this project shouldn't have taken all day and I'm leaving on vacation tomorrow morning.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Are you looking at the impeller inlet (center) or the outer edge? You should be looking at the inlet because that is where the water enters the impeller. CCW is correct.
Also, the motor would trip the breaker if you had wired wrong. The wiring diagram should be on the motor label. If it is 230v, then it doesn't matter which wire goes to which lead. Both are hot and AC has no polarity.
1. I was checking the rotation from behind the motor with the back end cover removed. I already had the pump put back together before I checked rotation (didn't know I needed to check) so I couldn't see the impeller itself.
2. Doh....I see the connection diagram on a motor plate. My old one had the red wire to Line 1 and the black to line 2. So I will do the same with the new one.
2. Doh....I see the connection diagram on a motor plate. My old one had the red wire to Line 1 and the black to line 2. So I will do the same with the new one.