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Thread: pH versus TA

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    Join Date
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    pH versus TA

    My pool pH goes up constantly. I have been just adding acid but my TA goes to 50 or so.

    I learned about Baking Soda after reading pool school so I started using that to raise TA. I have found that when I get the pH into range, my TA is too low so I add Baking Soda. That raises my pH and I seem to get into a death spiral.

    I seem to be stuck on what to do. Do I just keep adding acid and forget about TA?

    FC 4
    CC 0.5
    CH 260
    TA 80
    pH 8.0
    CYA 35
    Salt 0 (Chlorine Pool)
    Borate 0
    28,000 in ground gunite. 3.5' shallow end, 8' deep end with 8' waterslide. Only metal in the pool is the pool light.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: pH versus TA

    Stop raising the TA and the pH will not go up as fast. Aeration will also drive the pH up.

    Mine is down around 50ppm and the pH seems to almost be stable at 7.8.

    In reality just adding, the baking soda should have almost no impact on the pH. But the higher TA, will make the pH go up faster.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: pH versus TA

    What pH are you targeting when you add acid to your pool?

    What sources of aeration are you running? I see you have a water slide but are you running it all the time?
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: pH versus TA

    I haven't run the waterfall or the slide so there is no aeration. I try to get the pH to 7.4-7.6 but I would have to add acid every day to maintain this. I typically add 3/4 of a gallon once a week and let it drift up throughout the week.

    I am using bleach as my chlorine source.
    28,000 in ground gunite. 3.5' shallow end, 8' deep end with 8' waterslide. Only metal in the pool is the pool light.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: pH versus TA

    I would just ignore the TA for awhile and see what happens to your pH.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  6. Back To Top    #6
    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: pH versus TA

    Based on your current water test results and with a pH no lower than 7.6, you can easily let your TA drop to 50ppm and still be fine.

    So, as jblizzle suggests, stop trying to hold your TA at 80ppm and just target a pH of no lower than 7.6. Do not lower your pH until it rises above 7.8. See how that works out for you.

    Is your plaster new by any chance?
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: pH versus TA

    My plaster was refinished in 2014. I will ignore TA for now and just focus on keeping the pH correct. Thanks!
    28,000 in ground gunite. 3.5' shallow end, 8' deep end with 8' waterslide. Only metal in the pool is the pool light.

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