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Thread: A little guidance here?

  1. Back To Top    #1

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    A little guidance here?

    Hi all,

    I've been struggling for a while with my pool but before I get to the details here are my current numbers:
    (9,500 Pool, Saltwater)

    TC: 4
    FC: 4
    Ph: 7.5
    TA: 130
    CYA: 50
    Total Dissolved Solids: 4,900
    Salt: 3.3
    Phosphate: 500

    We had a black algae breakout last year, we combated it our best by adding lots of bleach and brushing as much as possible.
    This is our 3rd year since having the pool built but It's always seemed in the last two years I had to run my SWG at 100% to get any chlorine to show up. Mostly we would just offset it with bleach.
    I did acid bath the SWG this weekend and it was packed tight with build up.

    I've realized my pool had 0 CYA. Now, I'm not sure how often this should normally get added but I've added at least 7lbs every season for the past 3 years.
    Friday I added 5.5lbs (using the sock method I found here. Totally awesome BTW) and it is now at 50.

    The local pool store says my phosphate numbers are killing my chlorine, but from what I've read here I should be more worried about the CYA.
    Is this correct or are my phosphate levels looking that bad?

    Anyway my wife is anxious to fire up the pool heater but I still see specs of what appears to be black algae. I'm worried heating it this soon in the season will just allow it to grow like wild fire.

    Is it time to SLAM, and what recommendations would you have?

    Thanks,
    FlDave


    PS: We have a massive pollen issue around our pool that is simply unavoidable this time of year. I suspect that's part of my phosphate issue.
    10,000gal, IG, Pebble-Tec
    Cartridge Filter, Jandy FS-Flow variable speed, with Jandy Aqua Pure SWG.
    Completed 4/14

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Dave, the first thing we need to ask is if you are ready to take care of the pool on your own? Hopefully you say yes, and get yourself either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit - either can be ordered from the TF-100 link below in my sig. The pool store testing will exhaust your checkbook, and leave you frustrated. It's also best you hit the Pool School page to brush-up on its pages and info, but here's a quick summary to reply to your concerns:
    - A SWG pool should have a minimum CYA of 70. Since you were low for a while, your SWG can never keep-up with FC production against the sun.
    - Phosphates are a non-player. A properly chlorinated pool will not have algae, therefore phosphates are not a factor.
    - Your need to SLAM would be based on whether or not your water is clear, excess FC consumption, and your Combined Chlorine (CC) level. At this point, it may be best to perform an overnight test (OCLT). If you lose more than 1 ppm of FC in the dark hours overnight, you will want to SLAM.

    To SLAM though, you need one of those test kits that contain the FAS-DPD portion for testing FC at higher levels. Hope this all makes sense to you. If you still have questions, please ask. But first & foremost, you really need your own (proper) test kit. Let us know if we can help you further.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I wouldn't add any more stabilizer until you know if you can pass the OCLT. If you fail, then stay lower to save on bleach required to do the SLAM.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    Vital Links: POOL SCHOOL, RECOMMENDED LEVELS, RECOMMENDED CHEMICALS, Poolmath Calculator, SLAM, Chlorine/CYA CHART.
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  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    One thing to remember is that being in Florida with lots of sun you need a healthy amount of CYA, especially with a SWG.

    Then you also have a lot of rain which often overfills the pool and necessitates draining some. This is one way you're probably losing CYA.

    At TFP it's not a matter of adding assorted chemicals at specific times of year- rather we believe in adding only that which we need, and especially not just what the pool store wants to sell us. Which means you need a reliable test kit (one of the two we trust) and you need to start routine testing.
    My Amazon Smile for November12K Fiberglass IG, Infinity 4000 automatic cover, SWCG, Hayward Sand Filter, Hayward 1.5 Pump, Doheny Discovery Robot, Savi Melody LED pool lights, outdoor speakers and other assorted doo-dads. Sundance Altamar Hot Tub.
    Our pool build--> Our Pool Solved Our Sloping Yard Skippy's Cheap Pool Cooler -->Skippy's New Fountain

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    To tell the truth, I have no idea what my phosphate numbers are. I've never had them tested. Keep enough chlorine in the pool and you won't get algae.

    Black algae - those little black polka dots - don't really eat up Chlorine the way a murky green swamp will. It's probably UV light from the lack of CYA that's keeping the FC levels down, despite running the generator full tilt.

    There really is no substitute for your own test kit. If you can take readings and deal with whatever on the spot, right now, without hauling a sample to the store and getting the hard-sell, you'll be way ahead in both water clarity and wallet thickness. Once you have test results you can trust, it should be pretty easy to get the water balanced, and then you just follow Pool School - Black Algae The water will still be safe to swim in the whole time you're treating the spots.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Hey, guess what, my phosphates are exactly equal to yours. In three years I've had algae exactly once when my chlorine dropped to zero. Right now my pool is crystal clear. Its the UV that is eating your chlorine allowing the algae to grow. Get a test kit. Add CYA to get up to at least 70 and keep your chlorine levels consistant with that CYA level. Use Pool Math here to make it easy.
    22k gallon IG pebblefina, Jandy 1.5 HP VS, Jandy CV Cartridge filter, Fafco solar panels, Polaris 360 supply side cleaner, waterfall

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    Casey's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Looks like a consensus... Phosphates are over rated n for the most part don't matter. FC is what's important here and you running a low CYA level.
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Wow thanks everyone! I'm going to order the TF-100 today.

    I've never trusted the pool store. I'm not saying they are..but it would be easy for them to fluff a number or two just to make sure my wallet leaves $30-$50 lighter.
    I have a little more stabilizer to add but I'm actually afraid too until I test again. I'm worried that by just having it added on Friday night and into Saturday that it wasn't dispersed fully.

    Thanks again! I'll get the test kit ordered and visit back here to update.
    10,000gal, IG, Pebble-Tec
    Cartridge Filter, Jandy FS-Flow variable speed, with Jandy Aqua Pure SWG.
    Completed 4/14

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    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    HI to another FL person! You will be SO glad you found us! Your pool will look better than ever with TFP!

    SWEET and good job on getting a good test kit! That will save you SO much money and headache!

    Let us know when it gets there. For now just brush your pool and watch the FC.

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Quote Originally Posted by FlDave View Post
    I have a little more stabilizer to add but I'm actually afraid too until I test again. I'm worried that by just having it added on Friday night and into Saturday that it wasn't dispersed fully.
    That's the best way. You don't want to over-shoot and have too much. Give it a few days to get all juju and then see where ya are
    My Amazon Smile for November12K Fiberglass IG, Infinity 4000 automatic cover, SWCG, Hayward Sand Filter, Hayward 1.5 Pump, Doheny Discovery Robot, Savi Melody LED pool lights, outdoor speakers and other assorted doo-dads. Sundance Altamar Hot Tub.
    Our pool build--> Our Pool Solved Our Sloping Yard Skippy's Cheap Pool Cooler -->Skippy's New Fountain

  10. Back To Top    #10

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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Hey Gang!

    Got the TF-100 today and unless I'm doing something wrong this is really funny:

    FC: 14.5
    TC: 15.5
    CYA: 50 (closer to 55 actually)

    At this rate I'll burn though the FC solitons pretty quickly adding 28+ drops.
    Either way I'm going to test again in the morning for the Overnight FC test.

    The SWG is only running at 45% for 8hrs a day the last week. Maybe I can actually back it down a little for a change? Tomorrow mornings test will tell, but what are your thoughts on these high numbers?

    Thanks again!
    10,000gal, IG, Pebble-Tec
    Cartridge Filter, Jandy FS-Flow variable speed, with Jandy Aqua Pure SWG.
    Completed 4/14

  11. Back To Top    #11
    Mod Squad YippeeSkippy's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Your cya is a skosh low for having a SWG.

    If you aren't dealing with algae, and just want to test but its slightly less precise: use 5 mL of pool water in the tube and each drop will be 1ppm.

    BUT...since you appear to have a CC of 1, you need a SLAM if you're fighting something.

    Addendum: Don't raise your CYA since you need to SLAM and it will keep your FC requirements lower.
    My Amazon Smile for November12K Fiberglass IG, Infinity 4000 automatic cover, SWCG, Hayward Sand Filter, Hayward 1.5 Pump, Doheny Discovery Robot, Savi Melody LED pool lights, outdoor speakers and other assorted doo-dads. Sundance Altamar Hot Tub.
    Our pool build--> Our Pool Solved Our Sloping Yard Skippy's Cheap Pool Cooler -->Skippy's New Fountain

  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Thanks YippeeSkippy is there a guide here they recommends how much bleach to add for a slam?

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    cowboycasey's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Oh yes, we have you covered Look at the SLAM and Poolmath in my sig below
    Pool: Intex 16x32 15000 gal, 2 speed 340042, Pentair CC320 Filter, CircuPool SJ45 Salt System, Intermatic PE653RC; Hot Tub: 650 Gal SWG Megachlor
    links: pool school * Recommended-Levels * SLAM * CYA chart * Test kits * How To Post Pictures * Poolmath * OCLT ** Support your website if we helped you :) **

  14. Back To Top    #14

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    Re: A little guidance here?

    Ok guys please let me know if I'm on the right track...

    Pool looks the best it has since we first had it installed two years ago. Water is clear and even the black algae spots are gone.

    Here is tonight's reading:
    FC: 30.5
    TC: 30.5
    CYA: 70 (It could be closer to 80 but I have a hard time knowing what is considered a Non-visible black dot at the bottom of the tube)

    Questions: Am I on the right track? Are my levels too high?

    If possible I'd like to start the pool heater and get the swim season started this weekend.
    Are these levels ok or should I back off the SWG during the day? It's running 8 hours at 40%.

    I love this test kit and I'm super happy to have help from people like you all.
    10,000gal, IG, Pebble-Tec
    Cartridge Filter, Jandy FS-Flow variable speed, with Jandy Aqua Pure SWG.
    Completed 4/14

  15. Back To Top    #15
    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: A little guidance here?

    With CYA 80 and a SWG, your FC should never slip below 4. But since there's a history of black algae, I'd run it around 8-9 for awhile. That's well above minimum for the algae dots, but well below shock level so swimming is possible, and also low enough that you can test and adjust the pH accurately.

    Shut the SWG off and let FC dwindle. When it's below 10, test and adjust pH and everything else. Then just fiddle with run time and SWG % to keep FC somewhere in the 8-9 range.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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