Adding Intex SWG to new pool

Deb_B

0
May 21, 2013
45
Houston, Tx
Pool Size
11400
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We moved and when trying to take down our old pool the liner fell apart in our hands. How it was holding water I do not know. There were many tears in the bottom of the liner and it was brittle. Anyways... we are now purchasing a larger pool 22x52 (10k+ gallons) and want to add an Intex SWG.

I know there are ones that have copper and ones that don't but I cant find that info via a search.

Does anyone know model doesn't have the copper and can handle 10k gallons of water?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Debra
 
Thank you so much. I picked up a new for $87.00 on amazon. Quite shocked that I got such a great price.

We start clearing the area to install in about 2 weeks.

The kids can't wait. :)

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 
Actually, I think even that one has the copper ionization feature, but if so-- no worries,:mrgreen: it's really easy to disconnect. Just unplug the connector from the top of the electrode. You can just let the "connector cap" hang there...

The copper anode will still be there but it won't release any copper into the water if it isn't connected... I had mine for over 3 years, and I tested for copper periodically just to make sure... I figured if I detected any, I would figure out a way to seal that hole (I was gonna rig something up with a circle cut out of a rubber gasket sheet from Ace hardware' and caulking or flex-seal, or something)... But I never had a single problem. We are a family with blondes, too. So, I was very aware and afraid of ending up with green hair.

Good Luck!

Oh and few bits of unsolicited advice from a fellow Intex owner:
Make sure your site is absolutely, positively, 100%, beyond-a-shadow-of-a-doubt level.... With kids who will be bouncing around and having fun splashing and sloshing in the pool, it's especially critical. The Intex frame is prone to "walking" if the ground isn't perfectly level.... Meaning the weight of the water moving side-to-side and back-and-forth in the pool will make the legs move slightly off vertical, bit by bit, until eventually the pool becomes unstable and dangerous.... Anything more than a 1" differential from one side to the opposite side will cause problems... And obviously the greater the difference the more the risk....

Look up :google: how to make a water level... It will be your best friend. Don't try to build up to get level-- instead dig down to level. Even small divots that you fill in, you will want to spent the time to wet down and compact very, very well, or the weight of the water will do it for you, and you'll have low spots.
Also... use paving stones under the legs, you won't be sorry. The pavers keep the legs from sinking into the ground under the weight of the water, but there's another benefit: when you bury them flush into the ground, you can level each one to the next, and then double check that they are level across from one to the other, and then you can get all the surface level in between.

We learned how difficult it was to get the ground level, when we had to empty 9000+ gallons of water because the surface that seemed "as level as we could possibly get it" by checking it with our 4 ft. level, turned out to be at least 3" off from one side to the other. It took an extra 10 days or so, and another 10K gallons of H2O but we got it to be within 1/4 inch level. And it has stayed rock solid since. :whoot:
 
I know there are ones that have copper and ones that don't but I cant find that info via a search.




Actually, I think even that one has the copper ionization feature, but if so-- no worries,:mrgreen: it's really easy to disconnect.

The new ECO models do not have copper plates, I believe. They do some other form of ionization to "boost" the effectiveness of chlorination.
 
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