just learning about TFP.

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7snorkel

7snorkel

Bronze Supporter
Mar 31, 2016
73
Plano, TX
Hello, All. I've been recommended to this site, and am excited to learn how to take care of my own pool, and do it efficiently.

have been reading daily, and lots of numbers aren't making sense, but I'm sure they will soon.


Here is my story...

WE moved to this house last Summer. The pool inspector looked over our pool and equip. and said, " the one thing I would do, is turn the SWG switch to OFF."
He said it caused more corrosion to plaster and other things around the pool. (furniture, etc).

So, being totally unfamiliar with SWG, we took the guy at his word, and turned it off.

We've had a pool guy to come and do our chemicals each week. He uses Liquid Chlorine. Our pool has had very little issues, except an occasional vacuum part or a minor algae outbreak.
We brush our pool once a week, during prime months. So, the algae hasn't resurfaced again.

WE do have a few areas of calcium buildup on our tiles. I treated with White Vinegar, and it pretty much flaked right off, but did start to return the next day. :(

we very well may some some calcium on our plaster as well. I can show pictures if needed.
I know pool stores have some chemicals to treat the calcium, but I wan't to start the TFP method, and hopefully this will take care of my calcium issue.


I've recently cleaned our filter cartridges (Feb.) and now have questions for you as I prepare to start my own pool care the TFP way:


Should I re-start the SWG and start caring for it using it?

Or should I just stay with Chlorine (bleach)?

I don't have a test kit yet, but have seen your recommendations.

Before I choose a kit, I want to get some feed back as to whether we should go with either Bleach or Salt.
Then, I'll need the best kit for each method.

When the kit arrives. I will need suggestions on using the TFP chemicals (Soda Ash, Borax, etc), and where best to buy them.


I guess that's enough for now.

I await your answers, suggestions, and wisdom.

thank you.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

The best kit is the same regardless. The TF-100 is the best bang for the buck. If you are going to go with salt, then add the Taylor salt drop test.

And please do not buy chemicals before you test. Odds are you will never need soda ash or borax.

BTW, the guy was totally wrong about the SWG corroding plaster.
 
I'm with Jason on the TF-100. I love it. Best thing I ever did for my pool. But also get the "Speed Stir". Makes a big difference. The most common items you'll need are regular bleach (until you turn-on the SWG again) and muriatic acid. You can use the Bravo bleach from HEB or Great Value from Wal-Mart. Just regular - not splashless or scented. Acid you can get from a local hardware store or pool store. Look for the "31.45% / 20 Baume" acid. Stay familiar with the TFP recommended levels and chemicals and you simply can't go wrong. When your kit comes in, post a full set of test results and we'll help guide you from there. Great to have you with us.
 
The sooner you order one of the recommended test kits, the sooner your pool and family will be happy. Give us some good test results and we'll walk you through what is needed. Welcome!
 
The reason the test kit is the same is because a chlorine pool and a salt pool are basically the same. Both use chlorine to kill the things you don't want in your pool. The main difference is how the chlorine is put in the pool. You can use liquid chlorine (Bleach) or you can use a Salt Water Chlorine Generator (SWCG or SWG) which converts the salt in your pool water into chlorine. For me anyway, using the SWG is much more convenient that toting jugs of liquid chlorine.

So, assuming your SWG system is operational, I recommend that you turn it back on. I suggest that the first thing you do is check how much salt is currently in your pool and then add salt if necessary. Might also want to determine what kind of SWG you have and Google the manual if you don't already have one.

I know sometimes it sounds like all we want to do is sell you a test kit. But, if you want to take care of your pool yourself, it is a requirement for the job.

Jim R.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Definite yes to SWG! Definite yes to TF-100.

Here are two of my favorite pages here
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

we can help you manage your scaling problem as well. After you get a kit, get your SWG running and are ready start a new thread about your scaling and we can work on it. Keep your PH between 7.2 and 7.8 for now.
 
Thanks everyone. I have ordered my TF100 and will report back when i get it on Wednesday.

Hey PoolDV, looks like you're not far away.

Will check back in soon.

- - - Updated - - -

thank you.
I will wait for the test kit to come in. Turn on the SWG and start testing. How long should I wait to test Salt after turning unit back on?

What kind of salt, and where are best places to get it. and perhaps how much at a time should i buy?
 
I use pool salt from Lowes. You can turn the cell on to see if it gives you a low salt error. If it does turn it off, add a bag of salt, wait 24 hours, try again. Aim a little lower than the salt test says, they are usually off by several hundred ppm.
 
Hello, again to all.

just did my initial test on our pool with the TF-100

Here are my numbers:

FC- 13
CC- 0
CH- 925
TA- 160
CYA-80

Our pool guy came yesterday, for the last time.
So, I thought I would test it AFTER he came to see the results.

I turned on the SWG as POOLDV suggested, though AFTER i did my test.

will let it run for 15 min or so and check Salt reading. Or is 15 min. too long/short ?

Let me know if you need anymore info.

thanks

P.S. After 15 min of SWG running, it shows 3100, so I will leave it on.

i'll grab some salt as i prepare to re-introduce the pool salt.
 
Here is what I share with newcomers. Look it over and do some reading. I will check on you tomorrow to see how it is going.

You did a great job with the tests but is the PH?

Here are some links you will need when you are starting up a pool.

Print these out:

Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:

Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.
 

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Woo, that CH is up there. Are you sure about that reading? You might want to double check. Generally that increases from the hardness in fill water or past use of Cal-Hypo products. That would explain some of your scaling issues in post #1. You don't show your pH (which we really need) but your TA is also high. Even if your pH was 7.5, your CSI level is currently at about .67 which puts your pool at high risk for scaling.

So if that CH is indeed 900+, you have to keep TA and pH much lower to off-set the high CH. At the very least, use the acid & aeration method to lower TA to about 60-70 as soon as you can. The lower TA will also help keep your pH steady (low). Checkout the CSI row on the Poolmath Calculator when you enter your numbers. With a CH of 925, you can off-set the scale by adjusting pH to 7.5 and TA to 70 which gives you a CSI of .17.

Let us know if you have any questions.
 
Your CH is like mine. Hold off on adding that salt, because it'll just be wasted when you replace some of that water. It's SO much easier to maintain the water balance when the CH is about half what you have now, or lower. If you're not burdened by water restrictions, replace some water.

I'd recommend testing your fill water and then calculating how much of your pool water to replace. And then do it. Check the utility company -- some places tack a sewer charge on based on water usage and if you alert them in advance they will reduce the fee.

Of course, after you replace a bunch of water, you'll need to add more CYA and more salt.

If the SWG is already there, use it! Given the expense and the lifespan of the cell, it works out about even for bleach vs SWG. But since you have it, use it! If it abruptly dies, pour bleach in. No great loss.
 
Your water is a lot different than mine. Are you on city water? What city? Your CH and TA is a lot higher. Were you using cal-hypo? Test the PH, TA and CH of the water from the hose and we'll figure out a plan on what to do about the calcium and TA. That is definitely why you are seeing the scaling.

Here is the saltwater chemistry page, Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
 
pooldv said:
Your water is a lot different than mine. Are you on city water? What city? Your CH and TA is a lot higher. Were you using cal-hypo? Test the PH, TA and CH of the water from the hose and we'll figure out a plan on what to do about the calcium and TA. That is definitely why you are seeing the scaling.

Here is the saltwater chemistry page, Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
Click to expand...


we are in Plano.

we have had a pool guy doing using Liquid Chlorine. I'm taking over from here. :)

I tested the PH just now. --- 8.2
BR is greater than 10.

numbers sound right?
 
Do you have any muriatic acid to get that pH down? If not, get some tomorrow. PoolMath will help you calculate your dosage.

- - - Updated - - -

And like Ricahrd suggested, test your fill water for all but CYA as a partial drain could help if your fill CH is low.
 
Hmm, interesting, we should both be getting water from Lake Lavon. Give us your PH, TA and CH for your fill water from the hose. We can figure out what to do next.
 
Ok,
I had my daughter do the testing yesterday, as she is much better with colors than I am.

PH- 8.2
Br -10
TA 140
CH -600
CYA -90
CC- 0

don't see her FC reading. hmmm.


i know I'll get the hang of this is short order, but I'm no scientist.

your thoughts, please.
 
PH is high, it is important to maintain PH between 7.2 and 7.8 at all times with 7.5 to 7.8 being ideal. TA is also high and will contribute to PH rise. Lower your TA to 80 or so by following this process, Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity. Then let it lower naturally itself from there. FC should be maintained according to the Chlorine CYA Chart
 
7snorkel said:
Ok,
I had my daughter do the testing yesterday, as she is much better with colors than I am.

PH- 8.2
Br -10
TA 140
CH -600
CYA -90
CC- 0

don't see her FC reading. hmmm.


i know I'll get the hang of this is short order, but I'm no scientist.

your thoughts, please.
Click to expand...
Need that FC reading. If it's over 10, it will mess with the pH test and make it read falsely high. So don't go adding acid just yet!

If pH is that high, it could actually be higher. So when you dose things with acid, don't panic if it still reads 8.2 after. Just do it again and again until the color starts shifting towards the orange spectrum. I have better luck colormatching by holding the test block at arm's length and looking at it without my glasses. Seems to be easier to match colors when it's a little fuzzy. I use the white plastic patio chairs as the backdrop, since they're right there across the patio table from me.

The Cl-Br test is pretty much useless when you're using the FAS-DPD powder test. I run it sometimes just to polish my colormatching skills against the accurate reading. Unless you've added Bromine, the BR test has no meaning.
 

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