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Thread: Yaaaaay!!!

  1. Back To Top    #1

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    Yaaaaay!!!

    I was sweating bullets because this year is a water change year, and the temp went from 60 to 80 overnight and stayed there!
    Not supposed to drain pool over 70, I thought I was hosed this year....
    But the weather said high of 68 today so I drained it last night!!
    Refilling now, time to get some salt, cya and borax!!!
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    You can drain the pool over 70 degrees.

    If you were really worried, then just keep spraying down the surface to keep it damp.

    Or do the drain and refill overnight when the sun is not beating on the surface.

    I would rather drain the pool in 90 degree cloudy weather than 70 degree intense sun beating on the surface.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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  3. Back To Top    #3
    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Congrats! Bring on summer!
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  4. Back To Top    #4

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    lol - takes 24 hrs to refill!

    Original pool builder told us 70 so that has been working since 2004. Today was a perfect day though regardless.
    I usually do it end of Feb - early March but the weather this year caught me.
    Every two years. I tried going three once but had difficulty with everything by the middle of August so I learned my lesson the hard way.
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    The only reason to replace water is if your CYA or CH are too high. Your CH should not climb in 2 years.

    What problem were you having in August? I think your issues may be more chemistry related than "old water".
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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  6. Back To Top    #6

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Cartridge filter, no back flush ever. Phoenix area, Salt River is primary origin of tap water. CH starts at the high end and goes off the charts from there.
    When I get the salt in and everything balanced I'll post what everything tests at.
    Really good water pressure yesterday, filled in about 15 hours!
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  7. Back To Top    #7

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    It was August 2009, the problems eventually led me to this forum, which fixed everything so I gratefully joined as a paid lifetime member.
    In a nutshell, I found that when the CH is too high, and the air temp is 115, aerating at night to keep water temp down... drinking acid like crazy because of the aeration and salt water chlorine generation, even though PH, CYA and everything else is right, brushing the pool daily etc, I started to have a black algae problem. Small spots appearing here and there. I did battle daily. Followed pool store recommendations and tested water there a couple times a week! Shock, scrub, rebalance everything then it started all over again a week later. Pool store just took my money and sold me everything under the sun!
    SOooooo frustrating!
    But I found this website, bought a test kit and all has been well since the end of 2009. I do test and indeed 2 years is about it, so I automatically plan on draining in even years.
    In hindsight and subsequent dealings with the company that built my pool and owned the pool store I feel that they put sales ahead of what is best for the customer. I can say much more on this but not in a public forum.
    Anyways, I am very happy with all the help and mostly sound advice that can be found here, and pleased to report I have had no chemistry problems since joining.
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    NOW that says it all right there!!!! SO awesome to hear!

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Well, either I "mis-remembered" how much salt I put in at startup last time or the Salt River is a little saltier this spring... the AutoPilot sensor is saying 3600 - oops! I will buy some salt strips today to verify that, hopefully it will go down a little before it goes up with evaporation.
    TA is 80
    CH is 320
    Nothing added to the fresh pool water except salt and CYA, and 1 gallon of acid.
    pH 7.3 - with the very hard water here, my target is 7.2 as this seems to be the magic number that keeps the cell clean.
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  10. Back To Top    #10
    Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    How's your FC holding-up? Is your SWG keeping-up with the minimum required, or are you supplementing with bleach for now until your get the CYA and SWG matched-up according to the Chlorine/CYA chart?
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
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  11. Back To Top    #11
    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    3600 isn't so bad I don't think. My SWG doesn't report high salt until 4500 ppm.

    The best thing you can do to keep your cell clean is to manage your CSI. after you enter you test results and water temp in Poolmath it will give you a CSI score. Keep that slightly negative -0.1 to -0.2 and your pool, plaster and SWG will be happy. Use PH as your primary adjuster and TA second.

    More here
    Pool School - Calcium Scaling

    and here
    Langelier and Calcite Saturation Indices (LSI and CSI)
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  12. Back To Top    #12

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    I dumped in some liquid chlorinator at startup and I have cell power at 0 until I could test the water and make sure everything was OK. On my Taylor K-1000 the chlorine is 5. Sounds high but with the heat here it should come down fairly quickly. As I need chlorine I will bring power up on the cell.
    AutoPilot recommends 2500-3500 salt, target 3000.
    I am going to the pool store now to have the salt tested as my strips are too old. I can calibrate the sensor reading to the pool store reading.
    My current CSI is -0.65
    Nothing I can do about CH, it is what it is and it gets worse from here!
    I will keep an eye on TA, on target now but I know it will shift especially when aerating this summer to keep water temp down.
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  13. Back To Top    #13
    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    I will tell you that many SWG owners let the unit tell them if/when it needs salt. If the unit it is happy then all is good.

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

  14. Back To Top    #14

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Pool store says 3500 so we will leave it be and keep an eye on what it does.
    I calibrated my AutoPilot to read 3500.
    I wonder if my local water utility publishes the salt levels of the tap water?
    Found it, most recently published 2014, average sodium 171 with a range of 84-290!
    Well if it was hitting the high side that may account for part of my overage as I had figured with the tap water the highest I could possibly be was 3200.
    Next time I should just read the AutoPilot screen first.
    I just put it in "autopilot" myself and dumped the salt in lol.
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  15. Back To Top    #15

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Well I'm pretty pleased most everything went as planned. The cya was lower than it should have been with the product I bought at Wal-Mart so I added more of a different brand.
    Everything else was reasonably on target so I just dumped in the Borax.
    Will add half the acid in a couple hours then let it run all night and check pH in the morning.
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  16. Back To Top    #16
    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Very sound plan! Got to love someone who has a test kit and know how to use it!

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

  17. Back To Top    #17

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Well, thanks to TFP.
    I refer many people to this forum because you've all helped so much.
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  18. Back To Top    #18

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    That's great! What is your current status?

  19. Back To Top    #19

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Need a little more stabilizer, I'm at 60 cya now.
    pH is off the charts as I expected from the Borax, added another gallon of acid and we'll see where it's at tomorrow.
    FC at 5, no CC
    13000 Gallon Shasta Pool In Ground 2004
    Gunite/PebbleTech, AutoPilot Salt Water, Cartridge Filters, Ozone, In Floor Cleaner.

  20. Back To Top    #20

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    Re: Yaaaaay!!!

    Howling ago did you add the CYA? If it was within this week, 60 is fine for now. You can always retest later. Please be careful not to overshoot your target!

    Why did you add Borax and acid both? Are you adding "borates" to the water?

    EDIT: Howling! How long... Dang auto-correct.

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