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Thread: Chlorinator problems

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    Chlorinator problems

    I have a T-15 cell that is 9 years old and has been maintained as per the manufacturers guidelines. This year when it started to warm up I noticed it wasn't keeping the Cl2 levels where it normally did in past years. So I jacked up the output and it didn't seem to help. I figured it was time to replace it since it was 9 yrs old. So I bought a new T15 cell from Hayward and put it in.

    I have it set on 35%, which is higher than was normally needed. Normally 20-25% would keep my Cl2 at the needed levels. However when I go to my Diagnostics on the Goldline, it will more often than not say zero volts and zero amps. Sometimes, it will be around 26 volts and 5-6 amps.

    Is the setting of 35% a cell runtime percentage or an output %? I thought it just meant that it ran 100% of the time the pump was on but at 35% output.

    I am guessing the board may be going bad? I soldered it about 4 yrs ago to fix the bad solder joint on it.

    The pool is an 18k gallon, in ground vinyl pool. Thanks for any input!

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorinator problems

    35% means that it is on 35% of the time and off 65% of the time. Cell cycle times are usually 1-2 hours, on a 2 hour cycle it would be on 42 minutes.
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    Re: Chlorinator problems

    Ok, so it is working correctly and I never checked the Diagnostics before and noticed that is was cycling. Thanks for confirming that!

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Chlorinator problems

    It runs 100% capacity 35% of the on time when it's set at 35. All the cell knows is on and off. To get something less than maximum output, it cycles on and off, same as a microwave oven.

    If you're having trouble maintaining FC levels, you could have the beginnings of an algae bloom, or low CYA, or low salt. An overnight loss test (SWG off the whole time!) will tell you if it's algae, and the full battery of water tests will tell you what CYA and salt are.
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    Re: Chlorinator problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320 View Post
    It runs 100% capacity 35% of the on time when it's set at 35. All the cell knows is on and off. To get something less than maximum output, it cycles on and off, same as a microwave oven.

    If you're having trouble maintaining FC levels, you could have the beginnings of an algae bloom, or low CYA, or low salt. An overnight loss test (SWG off the whole time!) will tell you if it's algae, and the full battery of water tests will tell you what CYA and salt are.
    Yes, it could be some algae trying to get started as there is pollen everywhere. The salt is at 3100, CYA at 60, so that rules those out. I may just need to shock it good to get it ready for the warm weather and start out clean.

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