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Thread: zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

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    Question zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

    I am wondering if you have any advice for me before I call out a pool professional to work on my chlorinator. I would like to know how to test my chlorinator DC level and/or current level with a multimeter. I have Zodiac Jandy m/n APUREM. It is reporting Service LED with code number 121 (Low current in reverse direction to Cell.). The recommendations are 1. Clean cell if necessary (see Section 6.3). 2. Check DC Cord. I cleaned it with water hose and mild muriatic acid solution after finding some small mineral buildup in a few spots and some grainy surface accumulation throughout. I also disconnected and reconnected the 3-terminal connector on top of the cell several times as well as brushing the pegs with a green pad. I reinstalled the cell and plug; after a while the code 121 returned. Then I measured the voltage of the plug. From center to each outside hole was 9.02 and 9.08 VDC; 0 VDC from outside to outside hole. I traced the cord into the control box, disconnected the two plugs and measured there, getting 8.75 VDC (+/- 0.03) for all production levels from 5% to 100% (including boost). These measurements were taken when the plug was disconnected from the cell and while the controller LEDs that were lit were: Power on, cell on, flow, and cell reverse. The service LED would come one and go off, but the voltage in either case was the same 8.75 VDC. After reconnecting the cord I remeasured and got 8.96 VDC center to outer holes. The owner manual does not list the expected voltage.

    Also, since the code indicates that forward direction is not failing, if I plug the DC cord in 180 degrees will that swap the meaning of forward and reverse so that reverse will then work and forward will be low current? If so, then I can keep the cell from accumulating minerals by swapping it ocassionally.

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    Patrick_B's Avatar
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    Re: zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

    Hey Dwb!

    I mostly wanted to get your post answered and welcome you aboard. Good to have you with us.

    I'm not sure what you propose would work, but have you taken measures to prevent cell scaling through water balance management? Sorry if I'm asking the obvious, but it's an important piece of the puzzle.
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    Re: zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

    Welcome to TFP!

    The cell might be starting to fail, I had the Aquapure 1400 system before and when it started to get the 121 error the cell would only work in the one direction like yours. Since mine was under warranty at the time Jandy replaced the cell and it was fine after that.

    Look in this thread for a workbook on how to troubleshoot Jandy SWG's, Jandy AquaPure 700 Codes 120/121.

    Swapping the cord direction will not help unless you turn it around each time the system reverses direction. This is not a solution that I would bother with as the system reverses polarity every so often to help keep the plates clean.
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    Post Re: zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

    Hi.

    > I'm not sure what you propose would work

    I hope someone can tell me what the expected voltage/current is. Then I can compare that with my multi-meter to find out whether the cell it bad. If it is bad then I can order it myself and save a service call, because installing a new cell is easier than cleaning it.

    > have you taken measures to prevent cell scaling through water balance management?

    I get water tests and adjust the pH accordingly, usually by adding muriatic acid, which itself helps to dissolve mineral buildup.

    Thanks

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    Re: zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

    Per http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drR...20Workbook.pdf TEST VOLTAGE AT THE CELL should be about +25VDC; mine is -32 VDC from center to both sides (common black in middle and red to outside); that was with the cell on (but not reverse). CELL VOLTAGE & CURRENT should be about +25VDC (I assume with the cell disconnected as shown) and 122mVDC (it shows the DC cord to the cell disconnected but it seems that a current measurement would need it to be connected to the cell?!?); my reading was -12VDC (disconnected) and 0mVDC (disconnected and connected). I wonder how -12VDC at the board turns into -32 at the cell. The -12VDC indicates the Power Interface Board (PIB) is bad but page 28 of http://pleasurepoolsno.com/wp-conten...g%20Manual.pdf indicates the cell is bad; this also shows to measure voltage at cell with red in the middle and black on the outside! I have a 3-port AquaPure PLC1400.
    Last edited by d.w.b; 03-22-2016 at 09:04 PM. Reason: typo

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    Re: zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

    workbook test points: 75VAC (67-87) is 80; 65VAC (60-75) is 69; 19VAC (17-24) is 20; 12VDC (11.8-12.2) is 11.8; 24VDC (not listed) is 26. Is the 11.8V being as the low end of the good range indicative of a problem? Is 26V for 24V silk screen test point a problem? I swapped where the DC cord plugs into the PIB to match the picture and the code changed from 121 (reverse current low) to 120 (forward current low). The test points were fickle. I had to poke around on them to find the non-zero reading. When the cell was producing 100% forward the 120 mVDC current (100-145) is -90mVDC and the voltage at the end of the DC cord when plugged into the cell (22-28) is +35.5VDC. In reverse with cell on the current was -120 mVDC and cell voltage -32 VDC. I'm still wondering why the voltage and current is negative in the non-failing direction. I had 2ppm chlorine today after running for about 5 hours. In the other troubleshooting PDF (which is the original front/back board system) the probes onto the end of the DC cord are opposite the workbook PDF. It would be nice to know definitively where black and red probes go to get positive or negative voltage when in the positive or reverse direction on the new PIB, if you know.
    Last edited by d.w.b; 03-29-2016 at 06:26 PM. Reason: fix typo, add ranges

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    Re: zodiac jandy apurem low current to cell

    Do you know what the A and B LEDs on the PIB are for? B was on solid for most of the time and then at the end of my troubleshooting A started blinking bright and B blinking dim. I see on the sensor cord a control pod that has Program A and B buttons on it, but I wouldn't expect the LEDs to both be blinking if that was what they were for.

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