Does water temp affect pool drop?

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G

GasHauler

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Sep 15, 2015
24
Mobile, Al
I opened my pool two weeks ago Sunday. I did what was suggested as far as keeping my fc level at shock level(16 or above as much as possible) for the better part of a week with pump running 24/7. All green gone as far as I can tell. Went to the pool store where I buy my chlorine and bought a bottle of floc and followed the directions on the bottle, this was last Sunday(one week into process). Waited two days and still cloudy so back to the pool store I went. They said I needed to raise my ph so I did (was 7.2 now 7.7) ran the pump for 4ish hours and turned it off. Now two more days have gone by and still very cloudy. I know the preferred method is to let the pump run and filter it out but I feel like I'm at a disadvantage in doing this because I have no main drain in the deep end and only one skimmer. I say all this to ask if temp affects the rate in which drop works?

temp - 58 was 52 when I started process
fc - 2.0
cc - .5
ph - 7.7
ta - 90
ch - 140
cya is less than 30, was at 50 when pool was closed in Oct but we got a lot of rain this winter
 
GH, besides our confusion about the "drop" you refer to, there's one major flaw in your current approach - the pool store. :brickwall: They will continue to have you chasing your tail if you don't break-away and take care of it yourself. If you want to, TFP can help. Their recommendations and products conflict with what we would've advised. So if you're willing, let's give you some new advise:
1 - Do you have your own TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit? If not, that is priority #1.
2 - Algae means "SLAM" (link below). If you didn't pass the 3 SLAM criteria before, you probably still have algae. No floc, no estimated shocks, but a routine well descried on that page. It works!
3 - Just from your testing above of FC (2.0), I can tell you are very low which is why you are battling algae. But for now, the test kit and a SLAM should be your focus.

As for the "drop", well, not sure what you meant (correction - below). But temp can effect some readings a bit, but I don't believe that's related to your current situation of algae. So look-over what we've provided and let us know if you have any questions. We'll be glad to help you would like, but you have to stay away from those crazy pool stores. :)

Just saw your reply about floc. Drop effecting floc as in how the particles collect and sink to the bottom? Humm, not sure. But honestly, it wont matter. It's a Band-Aid fix unless you SLAM and fix the algae. That's how the pool store stays in business $$$$$.
 
Great, that makes it clearer for us. If your CYA was less than 30 when you performed the SLAM 2 weeks ago, then 16 was certainly a high enough FC. To be clear for everyone who may reply, you definitely passed the 3 criteria in the past week or two (clear water, less than .5 CC and passed the OCLT)?

Is that why you ended-up trying floc?

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I see. From here, it would help if we knew your pool equipment. Updating your signature is the best way. But we need to know what type of pool you have, size, type filter, etc. This will come into play.

You can add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later. This link may also help you: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
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It's very possible that the cloudy was residual algae still being killed and trying to oxidize. That happens very often. There are some rare circumstances where floc may be appropriate, but in most cases, it's not needed. My gut is telling me that your were on the right track, but the filter had not had enough chance to finish filtering-out the dead algae (white) and/or the FC was still killing algae from the winter.

Now GH, I am going to sound very picky here about your post #1. So I hope you don't take offense, but we see things like this quite often. For example:
keeping my fc level at shock level(16 or above as much as possible)
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All green gone as far as I can tell.
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Many of us will read those and interpret them as possible flaws in the completion of the SLAM. All 3 SLAM criteria are important - clear water being one of them. Maintaining that shock FC is extremely important until the SLAM is completely done. So if you reflect back to the past two weeks and suspect there is any possibility you didn't clearly pass all 3 items, that is key to the process. I would resume the SLAM now while your CYA is low so you don't need as much bleach, and see it though to the finish. No more pool store products until we're sure we've exhausted the SLAM technique.
 
How many hours are needed for the oclt. If I were to test it now and in the morning before I leave for work at 3:30, would that be enough time?? Like I said in my first post I dont have a main drain, will that affect the ability to filter out all particulate??

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So you're saying I need to keep my fc at 16, 24 hours a day until my pool is clear?
 

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Ideally, about 6-8 hours. We hate to give it an exact length, but 6-8 is a good window. I also have no main drain and before TFP tried a floc and/or clarifier. Once it settled, I took me MANY vacuuming attempts to finally get it all up. It was a royal pain in the $#%! Oh, glad you updated your equip! Sand filter - when was the last time you backwashed it?

As for the OCLT, just remember this:
When performing the OLCT, remember that it must be done when the sun has dropped – no sunlight on the pool. If you use a SWG or automatic chlorinator, make sure they are turned-off or set to zero. Unless already doing a SLAM, ensure your starting (bedtime) FC level is at least 3 ppm. Anything less and you may not receive an accurate portrayal of FC loss (by percentage), even if it’s only 1 ppm. Reference is the Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) page.
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Oh yes, the FC must be at or slightly above your SLAM shock level 24/7. It may drift slightly below at times (i.e when you're asleep or at work) so you do the best you can to bump it back up or slightly higher for some "wiggle room". If anyone else is at home while you're gone, that's their opportunity to help you. :)
 
If you pass the OLCT, and you have less than .5 CC tomorrow, we'll re-group. We may ask for a pic or two tomorrow in the good daylight. Clear water is a definite requirement because of the dead algae still so prominent in the water. If we get the indication from testing and/or pics that it could be anything else, we'll certainly give you advice.

Suggestion - Be very picky and deliberate with your "start and finish" OCLT testing of the FC. That's is very important when determining the best course of action.
 
In the one photo I can clearly see green, so yes - it appears you are back a t square one. You really need to read and follow the entire SLAM directions.

So, bring that pH down to 7.2 and SLAM away.

Remember, part of the SLAM is brushing the pool every day.
 
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