Check Valve Replacement Help

[stehigs321]

Hoping for some advice on replacing this check valve with a repairable Jandy check valve. The pipes are pretty fixed around it. Should I leave the original check valve in place? Put a new valve right below the current valve? use a 90 degree check valve at the turn below the current check valve? Put it on the pipe leaving the chlorinator? TIA

 

[Texas Splash]

You are right about that being tight. I'm assuming you want to install a new check valve because the original (white) one is going (or already has gone) bad. If it were me, I'd be inclined to remove the old one just to ensure it doesn't cause problems later. A bit of a pain given the limited space, but I'm not one to leave old parts in the system if I can help it. Then yes, install the new one lower where there's a bit more room. Maybe others will have another option or opinion. Have a nice weekend.

 

[stehigs321]

Thanks for the fast response. How the heck do I get that out of there? Dont want to spend too much on parts. Only way I see is to cut below the check valve. Cut above the 2nd Jandy valve. Cut above the second check valve(top left in picture). Replace the 2 checkvalves and 2 Jandy Valves. Then I will just need unions above the jandy valves/second check valve going to the heater and after the chlorinator somewhere. Unless I can separate the checkvalve from the Jandy valve. WIll a heatgun work?

 

[Texas Splash]

I've not tried to use a heat gun for this, but I'd be surprised is it worked. Unfortunately (from my laptop & chair) I don't see much of an option other than what you mentioned. The initial install just didn't leave you much room for maintenance. For what it's worth, doing as you suggested would certainly give peace of mind for future repairs with unions along the way. Easy for me to say though since I'm not the one doing the work. Maybe one of our other readers will have a trick or two to help you better.

 

[stehigs321]

When I said unions I meant straight joints. Would you recommend installing screw together unions? My system has none of these currently. I don't foresee future repairs since I will use maintainable check valves. I would need like 4 of them just for this small area. Would rather have some around the spider valve/pump.

 

[Texas Splash]

Of course, you certainly could go with just PVC. Certainly your call based on limited space and anticipated work later. I agree, you can almost best that filter/gasket (or other equipment) repairs will occur before a check valve. The typical unions we see used do come-in handy, but available space and practicality will be a driver as well.

 

[pooldv]

No, you can't use a heat gun, or anything else, to separate that joint. Jandy valves are made to accept an inside pipe and an outside pipe. You can cut off that union flush with the end of the valve stub out and use the opposite of what is used now. They come 2-1/2 outside/2 inside and 2 outside/ 1-1/2 inside.

 

[stehigs321]

Is there a flow benefit of plumbing the jandy valve on the outside vs the inside? 2.5" vs 2". Or is the inside diameter the same either way. I like the idea of cutting the top of the check valve off leaving the jandy to be plumbed on the inside. But will flow be affected?

 

[pooldv]

Not enough to make a difference you'll ever notice. Just use a reducer to go from the existing pipe to the inside of the Jandy valve.

 

[Isaac-1]

Where do those pipes go, can the check valve be moved up/down stream? If so you might be able to cut a couple of inches under the current check valve then gut it out with a hole saw on an extension bit, splice it back together with a coupler or two and move a replacement check valve down the pipe a bit.