Pentair IC40 Red Flow Light

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Dparnell

Dparnell

Well-known member
Aug 24, 2015
61
Marvin, North Carolina
Need some help with my IC40. It's brand new and the red flow light stays lit. What's the optimum RPMS I should have my pump set at to get the light to go green? I originally had the pump set to 1200 rpms, then bumped it up to 1300, now 1400. Red Flow Light stays on. How much flow does the IC40 need?
 
Sorry for the obvious question but - is it installed in the right direction? Pentair SWGs have a specific orientation relative to flow.

Also, just keep increasing your RPMs until the flow light turns green. It all depends on your plumbing and head loss. My IC40 shuts down if my pump speed is lower than 1600RPM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
The heaters are surprisingly restrictive and could be greatly effecting the flow.

How much has your filter pressure risen? Being that the plaster is new and you indicated that you had a good amount of dust, it could very well be time to break the filter down.
 
What is your water temp? In the 60s it might not act right, giving false flow errors and low salt errors. I don't turn mine on until the water above 70.
 
Temperature of the water will not have anything to do with the flow light. On the IC-40, there is a little tab that looks like a beer tab (im showing my age) in the middle of the cell that has to touch another contact to complete the circuit. The water has to be flowing fast enough to move that tab far enough to complete the circuit.
 
bk406 said:
Temperature of the water will not have anything to do with the flow light. On the IC-40, there is a little tab that looks like a beer tab (im showing my age) in the middle of the cell that has to touch another contact to complete the circuit. The water has to be flowing fast enough to move that tab far enough to complete the circuit.
Click to expand...

It's actually a little magnet on the end of the strip that has to come close enough to the body of the unit to close a magnetic reed switch....but I like the "beer tab" description ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 

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JoyfulNoise said:
It's actually a little magnet on the end of the strip that has to come close enough to the body of the unit to close a magnetic reed switch....but I like the "beer tab" description ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
Click to expand...

I figured the beer tab analogy would work :D
I actually had to bend the magnet on mine a little at one point. I get ~20 GPM on low speed with my 2 speed Pentair. But, the tab still wouldnt close the circuit. A nice pentair rep told me (without really saying it, if you catch my drift) to bend it a little. Worked like a charm.

If I remember right, the rep said something on the order of "you know that tab has a little give in it and a small pair of needle nose pliers work very well" ;)
 
I played around with the settings on my pump this afternoon. It looks like the speed at which the red light turns green is 1780 rpms. I will leave it there for now. I was running the pump for 4.5 hours every day at 1300 rpms, since I am now running at a higher rpm can I reduce the amount of time I run the pump?
 
Dparnell said:
I played around with the settings on my pump this afternoon. It looks like the speed at which the red light turns green is 1780 rpms. I will leave it there for now. I was running the pump for 4.5 hours every day at 1300 rpms, since I am now running at a higher rpm can I reduce the amount of time I run the pump?
Click to expand...

You're only producing chlorine at 1780RPM. Therefore you need to run your pump for as long as it takes to keep your water properly chlorinated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
Dparnell said:
Matt,

Considering this is a new pool how do you figure out the pump run time? I had Chlorine pucks in the pool the first month, then removed the pucks and hooked up the SWG.
Click to expand...

See this article in PoolSchool - Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time

It's going to be trial & error. You'll need to measure FC at least once per day. Set your run time to 8 hours and your SWG to 50% output. See what your FC is at the start and end of the cycle. Increase either the SWG output or pump run time to increase FC.

Your cell produces 1.4lbs of chlorine gas per 24 hour period (optimally). Pump speed generally doesn't effect that (unless it's too low). You can use PoolMath to figure out what that is in FC per day and get a starting point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
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