Drain and Refill startup

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bdrums

bdrums

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Jul 16, 2015
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The Woodlands, TX
We had to drain our pool so the pebble company could acid wash the surface again. The pool is filling now. Do I need to do anything special once the pool is full in regards to priming the pumps or bleeding air from the lines, heater or filter?

Texted PB but haven't heard back so I thought I'd ask here.

Thanks!
 
Once the pool is filled up mid-way to the skimmer opening, you might want to just make sure your pump basket is full of water before cranking it up. That may help to accelerate the priming cycle. If it doesn't maintain prime after a couple minutes on its own, let it rest for a minute or so, check the pump basket again, then repeat. You may have an air relief valve on your filter assembly. That can help to relieve some air once the system is cranked-up and pressurized.

After that, of course get some stabilizer in there right away, and until the CYA can mix with the water, maintain a relatively moderate (2-4) FC level, then increase after a day or so to your target level. It's been so unseasonably warm in our area that FC usage is going much faster this time of year.

Let us know how things turn out.
 
Make sure all of the valves are in the open position.

Is there a bleed valve on your filter? It should be at the top with a simple o-ring to help seal it. If so, allow your water to fill to the middle of your skimmer and open the bleed valve until water starts coming out of it.

You can close all of the valve when the water is in the middle of the skimmer and take to top off of the pump basket and pour water into it. Close the lid and open the valves back up. Please note I have an above ground pool so yours may be different. If I open my pump basket lid my water RUSHES out. You want everything filled with water from pool to filter back to pool.

Kim

- - - Updated - - -

(Hi Pat! We must be posting at the same time!) LOL
 
Yep. Nothing much to post yesterday.
FC 0
CYA 0
PH 8.2+
About 75 CH
and I stopped counting at 150 TA!!

Added 2 gallons of liquid stabilizer and a gallon and a half of MA and a gallon of 8.25% bleach. All spread out over a couple of hours with multiple pumps running.
 
Okay, so those are your latest test numbers. I suspect you know this already since you've taken some action, but just to reiterate:
- It's critical you keep the FC up. I'm sure FC was eliminated quickly with no CYA before, so that added liquid stabilizer should help real quick.
- Double-check your CYA later today or tomorrow since you added liquid stabilizer. It should record quickly on tests. Then add bleach to match your new CYA as noted on the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart.
- Keep a close eye on that pH and try not to ever let is creep over 7.8.
- Your high TA may also be pulling the pH up with it, so when you continually add acid, it should slowly bring TA down as well. Let that TA come down to 90, then 80, even 70 if needed. If you continue to have problems, refer to this page: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity.
- Your CH is very low and that could be a problem for your plaster. You should be in the 250-350 range. Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.


Hope this info helps. Let us know if you have any more questions.
 
Whoa! Slow down Pat. Haha!

We just did a FULL drain and refill. Those numbers were immediately after the refill. No chems added. I needed to know where I was starting from.

Our tap water is about 75 CH and 300+ TA. PH is high, too.

I just wanted to confirm all of that before rebalancing the water.
 

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