I have Taylor 2006 test kit and trying to clean up a poor maintained green pool. I needed to add MA and the book says to add over several days, with 50%, 25% and 15%. I didn't do this as I read it afterwards. I poured 5 3/4 cups in all at once slowly. Will this cause any problems?
Need some advice for using Muriatic Acid
- Thread starter Kate16
- Start date
Kate, I love that you already have a good test kit! That will be a major help in clearing the pool!
Can you please post your current test results?
FC
CC
PH
TH
CH
CYA
We will go from there.
Kim
Can you please post your current test results?
FC
CC
PH
TH
CH
CYA
We will go from there.
Kim
*Assuming* that the 5 3/4 cups of MA was the correct dose, putting it in slowly as you did (yet all at one time) is perfectly fine. Did you re-test the pH after an hour or so to see if it brought your pH to your desired goal?
What are you using for reference here (what book)??
What are you using for reference here (what book)??
What book was that?The book that came with the kit. page 18 under "Note:" Highlihted "Total amount of acid given from the tables must be applied over time to avoid low pH. Initially add 50%, 25%, 15% and then the final 10%, waiting 24 hours between each addition." I really have very little idea what I'm doing here. I first had to drain a bunch of water out of pool which took 3 days to lower CYA and now trying to balance pH. I went to pool store to buy more Chlorine and they did a test showing pH is still high along with TA. Should I add more MA? Pool store says quart and a half. FC is high because I dumped 5 gallons in after CYA was managed (my mistake). Pool is getting greener every day.
Kate let's take a step back here. The pool is looking green?
If it is then we can help you get some control.
First get us some test results from the k 2006 test kit. Once we have those we can establish a plan and get the pool to where it should be.
Second you need to make a choice this forum or the pool store. You can't listen to both. If you want the advice on here to work (and it really really does work) you need to stop listening to the pool store. We aren't really going to tell you to buy much besides chlorine and more chlorine and to test test test.
So get us some test results Kim has a list of what we need above and Kim Kats up there will get your pool beautiful and we can all come by and sip margaritas
Don't be intimidated we can walk you through this.
Gordon
If it is then we can help you get some control.
First get us some test results from the k 2006 test kit. Once we have those we can establish a plan and get the pool to where it should be.
Second you need to make a choice this forum or the pool store. You can't listen to both. If you want the advice on here to work (and it really really does work) you need to stop listening to the pool store. We aren't really going to tell you to buy much besides chlorine and more chlorine and to test test test.
So get us some test results Kim has a list of what we need above and Kim Kats up there will get your pool beautiful and we can all come by and sip margaritas
Don't be intimidated we can walk you through this.
Gordon
FC = 22 ppm
CC = 1 ppm
pH = > 8.0
TH = not sure what this is
CH = 160 ppm
CYA = after draining pool, I got it down to read 80 ppm, I ran out of reagent R-0013 except for a small amount. I just now used it adjusting pool water to same amount and reading was 60 ppm, so not sure how accurate that is.
CC = 1 ppm
pH = > 8.0
TH = not sure what this is
CH = 160 ppm
CYA = after draining pool, I got it down to read 80 ppm, I ran out of reagent R-0013 except for a small amount. I just now used it adjusting pool water to same amount and reading was 60 ppm, so not sure how accurate that is.
Opps TH should say TA as in Total Alkalinity. Sorry about that!
Here is a link to tell you what to use for each thing.
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Here is a link that you might want to print out and keep by your test kit:
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Now here is a awesome link to pool math! It will do all of the math work for you. Just punch in your current number and it will tell you what to do! Make sure to change the bottom part to use Trouble Free Pool.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
For right now you should be in a holding pattern until your FC goes down to 10. Anything above 10 will mess up (bleach out) the PH test results.
Let us know how it goes.
Kim
Here is a link to tell you what to use for each thing.
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Here is a link that you might want to print out and keep by your test kit:
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Now here is a awesome link to pool math! It will do all of the math work for you. Just punch in your current number and it will tell you what to do! Make sure to change the bottom part to use Trouble Free Pool.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
For right now you should be in a holding pattern until your FC goes down to 10. Anything above 10 will mess up (bleach out) the PH test results.
Let us know how it goes.
Kim
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My suggestion is while in "holding pattern" while waiting for the FC to drop some....go ahead and order any reagent refills you're running low or out of.
TFTestkits.net
TFTestkits.net
Kate youve already received good advice so far but i thought that I would chime in about the book which I am assuming is the one that came with the kit. It is a good reference point and worth a read but it does give some recommendations that are different to TFP.
So my advice would be to defer to the TFP recommendations and read up in Pool School. I think you will find the articles much more user friendly than the book. As always ask any specific questions you have through the forum.
So my advice would be to defer to the TFP recommendations and read up in Pool School. I think you will find the articles much more user friendly than the book. As always ask any specific questions you have through the forum.
Today's specs:
FC = 9
CC = 0
pH = 7.9
TA = 9
CH = 160
CYA = 60
Pool is still green. It had lightened up a bit 2 days ago, but now seems greener.
FC = 9
CC = 0
pH = 7.9
TA = 9
CH = 160
CYA = 60
Pool is still green. It had lightened up a bit 2 days ago, but now seems greener.
Okay. Have you familiarized yourself with PoolMath? It is time to calculate how much MA you need to get your pH down to first, 7.4. Then recheck the result about an hour or two later. Then adjust down to 7.2. You want to make most chemical adjustments in a gradual manner. If you need help with PoolMath, give a holler!
It says recommended levels for my pool the pH s/b btw 7.5 and 7.8. I put in 7.6 as goal and added 11 oz of MA. Is this not correct?
- - - Updated - - -
Ok I see it on the "Turning your Green Swamp" back post says 7.2 to 7.4, so will redo at 7.4 as suggested. Thanks for keeping an eye on me
.
- - - Updated - - -
Ok I see it on the "Turning your Green Swamp" back post says 7.2 to 7.4, so will redo at 7.4 as suggested. Thanks for keeping an eye on me
.
Kate here is a link for you to print out and keep by your test kit
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Note where is says "shock" FC...........that means the level for the SLAM.
Here is the SLAM link...........this will tell you how to clear your pool:
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
The number ONE thing to do is make sure you keep your FC at or just above the SLAM level for your CYA. SO with your CYA being 60 your FC should not go lower than 24. The more you maintain your pool at SLAM level the faster you green monster will go away.
Ask any and all questions you have. We have all been here at one time or another.
Kim
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Note where is says "shock" FC...........that means the level for the SLAM.
Here is the SLAM link...........this will tell you how to clear your pool:
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
The number ONE thing to do is make sure you keep your FC at or just above the SLAM level for your CYA. SO with your CYA being 60 your FC should not go lower than 24. The more you maintain your pool at SLAM level the faster you green monster will go away.
Ask any and all questions you have. We have all been here at one time or another.
Kim
Do that. Add MA to lower pH to 7.4 and then give the pool a couple swipes with a brush to get some cross-currents going to really mix it up and then it's jugs away with the bleach. Call CYA 60 so you want to target 24 FC to get ahead of that green. If you're not already using the 10 ml sample size for the FC test, start now. Then you multiply drops by .5 to get FC. +/- .5 FC is plenty accurate and it saves drops. Also, if the Taylor book says use two scoops of powder, ignore that. You just need to add enough powder to turn it deep pink. If you see one or two undissolved crystals in the vial before you start the drops, you have enough.It says recommended levels for my pool the pH s/b btw 7.5 and 7.8. I put in 7.6 as goal and added 11 oz of MA. Is this not correct?
- - - Updated - - -
Ok I see it on the "Turning your Green Swamp" back post says 7.2 to 7.4, so will redo at 7.4 as suggested. Thanks for keeping an eye on me
If you haven't already added the bleach, you may want to recheck your pH after adding the MA to make sure you hit your target of 7.2/4. Sometimes we mis-estimate our pool volumes.
On the Pool Math site where it gives suggested FC levels based on your specs, you are to use the recommended "shock level" or "Mustard Algae Shock" level since my pool is green with algae now? When you wrote "24" I assume is "Shock Level" but just want to be sure.
This is what it says for instructions for "pool math" . "Shock" level is for when CC is greater than 0.5 or you have algae. The higher "Mustard Algae Shock" level is sometimes required when fighting persistent mustard algae.
This is what it says for instructions for "pool math" . "Shock" level is for when CC is greater than 0.5 or you have algae. The higher "Mustard Algae Shock" level is sometimes required when fighting persistent mustard algae.
