Bypass leaking Raypak heater suggestions

[ekuldog]

Looking for help for a first-timer. I've got a rusted out return header in this 15 yr old Raypak heater. New heater on the way but for 7-10 days I don't want a leaking swamp in the yard as I need to run my pump still. I was going to cut the pvc and re-route the plumbing to temporarily bypass the heater altogether. And then when new heater is installed, add new bypass valves for this in the future. Attached pics of the layout of the pipes...where is the best spot to try and do this? I've got the SWG flow switch right after the heater output line. Thanks for any advice or experience.

 

[ps0303]

Any of the two spots on the intake side and then the one spot on the return side are probably the best spots.

 

[ekuldog]

Thanks. I'm re-routing the lines now. Close to what you suggested but I chose a spot a little higher up on the intake line so that I could do it with less unions. I'll post pictures of finished product for anyone else interested later.

 

[Pool Clown]

What is the temp of your water currently?
When is the heater supposed to arrive?

If the temps aren't too warm, you may be able to just turn the pump off and not have the pool turn green. I mean, if the temps are in the 50s to 60s, you could let it go (not run it) and not have an algae problem. Or run it every other day, or every third day, something like that. If your getting another Raypak, hook up will be very close, i wouldn't want to disturb the pipe alignment with a by-pass only to have to re-plumb when the heater comes.

 

[ekuldog]

What is the temp of your water currently?
When is the heater supposed to arrive?

If the temps aren't too warm, you may be able to just turn the pump off and not have the pool turn green. I mean, if the temps are in the 50s to 60s, you could let it go (not run it) and not have an algae problem. Or run it every other day, or every third day, something like that. If your getting another Raypak, hook up will be very close, i wouldn't want to disturb the pipe alignment with a by-pass only to have to re-plumb when the heater comes.

Thanks for the input. Prob 7-10 days on the heater to ship and install. Unfortunately, here in DFW its in the mid-70's to almost 80 this week. I thought about winging it without much pump time while I waited but the leak is pretty substantial and the temps are just too warm right now.

I've already re-plumbed and have it ready to check now. I'll just run it this way temporarily until I can route the new bypass valve on the heater install at the same time.

 

[wjr75]

They moved the power inlet up about a 1.5 feet just above what you have now on the newer models. You may or may not need to extend the wires further..mine had just enough to make the new inlet. I also had to get the water proof conduit and and a inline union to extend mine up higher. Just a FYI.

 

[ps0303]

Looks like you can make the liquid tight reach the new opening for the power on the new unit. Looks like you have enough slack on it. If the liquid tight isn't long enough to make the new power hole, I would add a junction box and then extend the wiring up to the new opening.

 

[ekuldog]

Thanks for the suggestions on the power lines. I'll keep that in mind when the unit arrives.