New pool build in CA

So dv are you saying we don't need to purchase the salt test?

I slept through this question. It is not mandatory. You can add salt based on Poolmath and then add a bag when you get a low salt error from your SWG. Just be careful not to add salt in the fall when the water temp drops below 70. The SWG will give false low salt errors. I turn off my SWG when the temp drops below 70 and switch to bleach.
 
I feel like I should start buying the stuff needed today maintain the pool once complete. What all will be needed for a SWG pool? Thanks.

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TF100 from TFTestkits.net
2 or 3 gallons of 8.25% bleach
70ppm of cyanuric acid
6 or 8 gallons of 31.45% muriatic acid
3400ppm or so of salt, whatever your SWG says is the ideal level

Print this
Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs
and this
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

and you can add your pool info to your signature, more here, Pool School - Read This Before You Post
It would probably be good to add a nearby big city to your location so we have a better idea of your climate for future pool care advice. San Diego's climate is quite a bit different than San Francisco.
 
I will add to the shopping list:

-plastic 2 cup measuring cup (for adding bleach and muratic acid)
-White, plastic plate to help with the PH test (you can hold the plate behind the PH test and it helps me see the colors better)

Think about where you are going to keep the chemicals for the pool..........muratic acid MUST be kept away from chlorine. They will produce a gas if kept too close together. muratic acid should not be stored by metal as it can vaper out and cause rust.

Kim
 
I saw the trunk that had the 209 area code on it. Where are you in California? I have lots of family that lives in that part of Cali. My parents live in Woodbridge outside of Lodi and my wife's family is in Turlock and Los Banos.
 

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It is a better to keep bleach in the laundry room or pantry, heat will reduce the strength over time. Once the pool is up and running you won't need to add bleach much. 121oz adds 4 ppm FC to my 20k pool. So, I add a jug before pool parties or each morning on big swim weekends to boost the FC a little. That way I don't have to mess with SWG time or percentage.

Muriatic acid is best kept outside, under a deck, behind a shed, somewhere shady. If your pool shed is wood or plastic that is OK, but it will outgas and rust anything metal that is nearby. Especially after it is opened.
 
It is a better to keep bleach in the laundry room or pantry, heat will reduce the strength over time. Once the pool is up and running you won't need to add bleach much. 121oz adds 4 ppm FC to my 20k pool. So, I add a jug before pool parties or each morning on big swim weekends to boost the FC a little. That way I don't have to mess with SWG time or percentage.

Muriatic acid is best kept outside, under a deck, behind a shed, somewhere shady. If your pool shed is wood or plastic that is OK, but it will outgas and rust anything metal that is nearby. Especially after it is opened.
Thanks for the tip on bleach, laundry room it is. Our pool shed will be wood, thinking of getting a TuffShed.

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You will be on bleach for at least 30 days that's what most recommend before adding salt to a new pool. You might want to stretch that to 6 weeks since the water will still be cold enough that you probably won't be swimming and the sun should not be consuming too much CL yet any way. It would be surprising if you use more than 3 to 5 gallons in that time. Many/most switch to liquid CL during the winter since the demand is low and the SWG will either not work or is not very efficient when it is cold plus it extends the life of the cell.

TuffShed does good work. Certainly looks like you have enough space to do a pool house/shed we had ours installed by them about 9 months ago still working on the inside electrical plumbing and so on. Only drawback to them is if you do a building that requires a concrete pad and or a permit you have to arrange that yourself but the savings over turn key are worth it in my opinion. We saved $8000 with them over the cheapest turn key quote we got and several were much higher.
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Agree on all points with atttech-2.

We had a tuff shed built at our last house, nice price and nice shed. It was big, 16x24 with a loft, I ran the electric to it. No water, no pool back then.

My SWG gets shut off when the water gets to 70* and I switch to bleach. With cya at 70-80 (70 right now) I keep FC right at 10ish so I can still test PH.
 
You said you don't know how many gallons, it might be a good idea to ask the builder or use one of the many volume calculators that are available and see if the estimated volume is inline with the SWG cell you are getting. I don't think I have ever seen a post about a cell that is to large but there are quite a few that were under sized leading to either having to add CL or at the least longer pump run times to keep the production at an acceptable level.

When it is time to fill if your water is metered taking a reading before and after the fill so you can get the real volume. I say real volume because the builders and online calculators use averaging, I was told by the builder my pool would be 15,500 gal not all that different than I got online, problem was the Baja shelf was not take into account, real volume came in at just over 12,000. If you are not metered you can time the fill and then do a bucket test. See how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket with the hose you used to fill the pool and divide the pool fill time by the bucket time and multiply by 5 gallons. Knowing the true volume form the start can make chemical management much easier. No matter what the volume over time you will get a feel for how the pool will react to each addition.
 
Quartzite stone got laid out yesterday, wife is now not sure if she likes it. Might be eating the cost of the stone and going with a concrete band now. Still have to have the PB fix the tile at both skimmers and a few shallow tiles, hopefully that gets taken care of today.
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You said you don't know how many gallons, it might be a good idea to ask the builder or use one of the many volume calculators that are available and see if the estimated volume is inline with the SWG cell you are getting. I don't think I have ever seen a post about a cell that is to large but there are quite a few that were under sized leading to either having to add CL or at the least longer pump run times to keep the production at an acceptable level.

When it is time to fill if your water is metered taking a reading before and after the fill so you can get the real volume. I say real volume because the builders and online calculators use averaging, I was told by the builder my pool would be 15,500 gal not all that different than I got online, problem was the Baja shelf was not take into account, real volume came in at just over 12,000. If you are not metered you can time the fill and then do a bucket test. See how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket with the hose you used to fill the pool and divide the pool fill time by the bucket time and multiply by 5 gallons. Knowing the true volume form the start can make chemical management much easier. No matter what the volume over time you will get a feel for how the pool will react to each addition.
Do you have a link to the calculator? Thanks!

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