PuntaGunta

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PuntaGunta

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Nov 21, 2015
3
Punta Gorda, FL
Hi TFP!:wave:
First time pool owner here getting settled in Southwest Florida. I'm taking over a pool that wasn't used much. I've been reading and lurking the forums getting up to speed. Thanks to pool school I've managed to get the chemistry stable and the caretaker system working again. Some of the pool equipment is 1999 vintage so I appreciate your help in advance as I update my setup. In order to complete my signature, can you guys help me identify my pump? The label is unreadable.
Pool Pump.jpg
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

I can't tell anything form the pump photo, but a close up of the data-plate on the top may help.

You list a "TroubleShooter testing kit", and if this is one of the Taylor kits in their "residential" line it is missing several tests we recomend you have and use:

FAS/DPD Chlorine test.- The FC test in your kit is limited to FC 5, where the FAS/DPD goes up to 50
CYA - Understanding the level of CYA/Stabilizer in the water is essential to using our methods of pool care as we base the recommended levels of FC on the CYA level
CH - With a pebble pool shell you need to keep track of the amount of calcium in the water to avoid scale or etching of the pool surface.

You can purchase the individual tests to make your kit "complete", or if your reagents are older you can just pick up a TF100 test kit which includes everything we recomend.
 
OH YEAH! Another Florida person! Better watch out TX! We are catching up to you!

Hi and welcome! So glad you have been able gain useful knowledge from your reading. If there is any thing you are unsure or what to double check just let us know. Someone will have an answer.

Kim
 
Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

I'll Pick up a TF100. I've already almost got hosed by my lil-kit. It didn't catch a high FC that resulted from a botched pool store water test. Luckily I didn't dump in all the stuff they sold me to fix my false problem.
  • The previous over used chlorine tabs exclusively so the CYA levels were high, they are below 95ppm now and dropping with all the rain lately.
  • Last Calcium Hardness was 465 but pool store said not to worry, their test always showed that high, something about the public water here does that.:confused: There is one stain on the bottom of pool that looks rust colored about an inch long; could that be a symptom? There is some roughness on tile but I'm not sure if thats just the texture of the tile or scale deposits. They don't appear to be growing. I'll get pics of all this tomo.

Here are more pics of the pump and motor. I'd like to figure out model it is so I can have the parts on hand when its does go bad. It looks a little rough and doesn't sound very smooth, motor runs hot-to-touch
View attachment 45079View attachment 45080
 
As to having parts on site I would probably say don't bother. When that pump dies it will be time to upgrade to at least a two speed, and depending on your electric rates it may even be worthwhile to look into VS (variable speed) pumps. Do you have Florida Flicker & Flash (FP&L) for power, or someone else? My pump is always hot, not too hot to hold your hand on - but hot. Plus, as you say it sounds a littel rough. But I'm just going to wait and then look into a two speed.

As to the testing, if you have read around here much you have probably seen that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. In my case two different pool stores told me my CYA was "fine", around 70 or 80. When I tested myself I found it over 200. Once you get your TF-100 there is always someone around here to help walk you through the testing.
 
the rusty looking spot might be just that. If it is rust, you can use some vitamin C tablets to remove it. PUt a few tablets in the foot of a stocking and hold it on the stain. If its rust, the Vitimain will dissolve it right off in very short order. Its better than Spic-n-Span

Its always wise to test your Tap water for CH. If the tap water is actually high in CH, then so will the pool water.
Once you get a good test kit and get a bit more into understanding the water parameters better, you can make adjustements to the CH and / or pH to help prevent calcium scaling that might be happening which wil cause those rough spots.
 
Welcome. Youve gotten great advice and im not surprised. We run a great forum.

Get your kit and post up your test results n we can get on our way to helping you towards a TFP.
 
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