Help I'm a new pool owner and thought I was on top of things until last Saturday. I woke up that morning and tested for FC, PH, stabilizer, and combined Chlorine and everything was good. When I returned home around 5:00 there was a small green tint to the water in the deep end. Seeing this I shocked the water and waited till the next morning to find the whole pool extremely green. Seeing this I assumed I had green algae and took a water sample into the pool store Monday morning where they found that all of my levels were good except for the Phosphate level being 300. They then gave me an Algecide and more shock. I was told not to do it until after the big rain we were getting on Tuesday. I then waited for the rain to stop and did the Algecide and another round of shock on Tuesday evening. My chlorine levels have been 5-10 the whole time as well. I also cleaned my filter cartilages on Sunday and again yesterday (Thursday). Well it is now Friday and I do not see any difference. I called the pool store and explained the situation. They wanted another sample which I haven't done yet. They also told me to put a water clarifier in to see that works. I'm now really questioning if it is green algae or something else. Please advise.
New Pool Owner, green pool, wasted a lot of money at pool store
- Thread starter Jeff337
- Start date
My first suggestion is to stop going to the pool store. Their only response it to sell you something.
Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.
While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework assignment. Start with Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Without a full set of test results it will be difficult to provide any direction.
Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.
While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework assignment. Start with Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
Without a full set of test results it will be difficult to provide any direction.
ewkearns
0
While awaiting your test kit, it would be wise to check your filter at least daily. It will be catching a lot of the algae.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Jeff, I would agree with the advice already given. Ordering a TF-100 of your own is one of the best things you can buy for yourself and your pool. It is chock-full of Taylor brand reagents, so it's a great value. It will pay for itself in chemicals NOT purchased at your local pool store. Make sure to ask for the XL option AND the Speed Stir. In the meantime, also consider adding maybe one gallon of "regular" bleach to your pool every couples days or so until your TF-100 arrives. Regular bleach (no scents or splashless features) is one of the purist sanitizers recommended here at TFP, and if your pool is in the early stages of an algae bloom, it should help slow it down. By all means, do NOT add anything else to your water as suggested by the pool store. Many of those algaecides contain metal (iron, copper, etc) which can cause water and/or hair to turn green. Hopefully you are on city water (not a well) free from metals as well.
Post a full set of results when you get your own TF-100 test kit and we'll guide you every step of the way. Welcome to TFP!
Post a full set of results when you get your own TF-100 test kit and we'll guide you every step of the way. Welcome to TFP!
Jeff, Tim has you very covered in what you need to do. You are having an algae bloom early. This weather has been crazy on our side of things (I am in FL so know what you have been going through).
You need to get a test kit and LOTS of chlorine.
Let us know when you get your test kit in.
Kim
You need to get a test kit and LOTS of chlorine.
Let us know when you get your test kit in.
Kim
Was wondering if Jeff was coming back to update or if he is still going to the pool store?
I have found Chlorine level 10 isn't always enough to clear a very bad algae bloom (at least not at a noticeable rate) if the water temperature is high. 5-10ppm is really barely above hot tub chlorine level recommendations (2-3ppm)... Just don't swim in it during the duration when you've got so much chlorine. There's always pockets of low chlorine like in the stagnant water under the pool steps, and algae films on the vinyl that keep seeding more blooms. Fortunately, one full jug of cheap pool bleach (under CDN$5 for me) instantly brings the chlorine level above 10.
Secondly I found I needed to use my pool brush-on-a-pole to scrub the poolwalls because algae film survive high chlorine much better than when that same algae is floating. Get that pesky stuff floating to cure it!
My experience: Algae bloom accident when heating pool >80F with nearly zero chlorine. Took a while to clear it up. Moral: Watch the chlorine even more during higher water temps, like hot midsummers or during prolonged pool heating. [we've now become the resident 95F pool-hot-tubbing experts of our neighborhood]
Secondly I found I needed to use my pool brush-on-a-pole to scrub the poolwalls because algae film survive high chlorine much better than when that same algae is floating. Get that pesky stuff floating to cure it!
My experience: Algae bloom accident when heating pool >80F with nearly zero chlorine. Took a while to clear it up. Moral: Watch the chlorine even more during higher water temps, like hot midsummers or during prolonged pool heating. [we've now become the resident 95F pool-hot-tubbing experts of our neighborhood]
FC level is virtually meaningless without factoring in the CYA level, as discussed here: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart