Complete with Refill Am I ready to SLAM?

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kfpool

kfpool

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 14, 2016
141
Semmes, AL
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
First I want to say that the support here is outstanding! Thanks to everyone that has helped me along with my 1st pool.
I Just want to reach out for confirmation. I drained approx 75% of my water, cleaned the pool of a LOT of gritty debris & have refilled. The water is now a clear yet green color.

Test results from my lastest test

FC - 1
CC - 1
TC - 2
TA - 90
CYA - 70
PH - 7.7
CH - 220

Looks like I need to
Add 17 oz Acid to lower the PH
Add 640 oz of 8.25% bleach to get to the recommended shock level of 28 FC

I am thinking adjust PH tonight, Retest tomorrow and start SLAM

Am I on the right track?

- - - Updated - - -

According to pool School, I need to keep the FC at 28 during the SLAM. My question is... how long for the FC levels to get down to normal?? I assume I just stop adding bleach until it drops to the desired level?
 
Re: Complete with Refill, Ready to SALM

kf, assuming your only issue is confirmed algae, then yes, you look to be correct. 28 is your SLAM FC level. So after you lower your pH, then "maintain" that higher FC until you pass ALL 3 SLAM criteria. Keep the pump on 24/7, and sweep every day as well. Only after passing all 3 SLAM criteria do you allow the FC to lower back to normal on its own. Hope this helps. Let us know if you have any more questions.
 
Thanks, I added the acid tonight and will verify the PH tomorrow evening. If it looks good I will begin the SLAM process tomorrow evening


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How long depends on how hardy your particular strain of algae is, how diligent you are about maintaining it at shock level, and how thoroughly you brush. Once the three criteria pass, then you just stop adding bleach. With cool water and winter sunlight, it might take a week or more for the FC levels to drop to your normal maintenance level. There's no way to predict it. You'll just have to test and see. Be aware that chlorine loss to sunlight is a percentage, not a fixed amount per day. Also be aware that it's safe to swim in it up to shock level for your CYA level. And remember that the pH test will read falsely high when FC is above 10, so don't try adjusting it until after the SLAM is complete and FC has dropped.
 
Started SLAM - FC did not drop

Started my SLAM after refilling. Raised FC to 28 at 7 pm last night, brushed the pool 2x and cleaned filter 3x. Water is cloudy & green. Checked FC this morning & FC had fallen to only 27. Cleaned the filter and raised FC to 31 since I will be away all day.

Is it normal for FC to not drop?

Test before slam
FC - 1
CC - 1
TA - 80
CYA - 70
PH - 7.8
CH - 175


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Is it normal for FC to not drop?
Click to expand...
No. Let's see what it does today but I supect there may have been a testing error. You hav your FC up where it needs to be so keep it there (as you are doing) and you should see daily imp[rovement in your water clarity.

Watch your pump pressure and backwash when psi goes 25% above normal.
 
My test this morning was at 7am. Just had my wife retest (11am). FC is 31


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That's good KF. Stay at (or slightly above) 28. No need to go much higher. Simply "maintain" that FC SLAM FC 24/7 with pump running and continue your vigilant sweeping. Soon that cloudy green will transition to a cloudy blue before clearing. Oh, make sure to check any hiding spots for algae (i.e. light fixtures/niches). Be patient and let the bleach do it's job and you'll be fine.
 
Thanks, forgive me for being a little uneasy. I expected the FC to drop more quickly


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OK, I have been keeping an eye on the pool all afternoon. FC did drop to 25 at my 2:00 test and I added 2 jugs of 6% which should have brought the FC to around 30. Tests at 5:00 and at 8:30 show no loss in FC with FC at 31 for both readings. It has been in the 80s and sunny here today & based on the other test results is probably responsible for the FC loss..It just does not seem correct that the FC level is not going down. The water is a cloudy green & the filter is always plugged with a greenish brown film. (a little sandy looking?) I failed to get a photo before the sun called it a night.

Am I missing something?
 
Pump is running 24/7 & I am brushing every couple of hours. Filter usually plugs shortly after brushng. Could this simply be some sort of silt causing the cloudy water?
 
The only way I can accomplish that would be to pull the element out & run with the housing empty.
 
I am looking for as much circulation of the chlorine while avoiding the possibility of the filter getting clogged and being damaged. I always like pools with multiport valves that allow a re-circulation mode to use that when the pool will be unattended to prevent what you are describing, the filter clogging.
 
I know I probably need a larger filter, when I do that I will plumb in a bypass. I guess the question is... Do I need circulation more than filtration at this point?


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