Ouestions- CH, Acid,Testing

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S

SanMarzano

0
Dec 26, 2015
23
Sacramento California
Hello All,

So I did my tests this morning with the TF-100 and then went to the pool store to get some LC and MA. I brought a sample in for them to test and I noticed they had a new machine, A Lamott Spin or something like that. I was happy to note that my tests and theirs were almost identical (makes me feel like I am doing something correct. I noticed my CH is getting to the low side, should I add or since my pool is new, will it creep up? Also, I noticed the PS tested for Phosphate 764ppb (recommended range 0-500). Do I need to worry about phosphate? I dont see many people talking about it and the PS didn't say anything. Lastly what do people usually pay for MA? Was wondering is the PS is a good deal or not

Results TF-100 / PS
FC 6.5 / 6.46
PH 7.5 / 7.5
TA 90 / 110
CH 225 / 225
CYA 50 / 46
CC 0 / 0

The funny thing was he said my FC was way to high and should be 3. I didn't go there

Thanks!
 
The PS results are relatively accurate because the machine is brand new, give it a couple of months and there is a good chance that accuracy will take a dive due to cruddy maintenance. The better question is: You have a TF-100, why are you taking a sample in to the pool store?

As for phosphates, ignore that. Maintaining a proper FC level makes them mostly irrelevant. Your CH is a touch low for a pebble pool, you want to get that up to over 250 to avoid any problems with it leaching. If your CH rises on its own then it is taking it from your finish, which is not something you want. I will let someone more local talk about MA with you, Ohio prices and California prices are rarely comparable.
 
Whether or not to raise CH depends on your fill source water. What is the pH, TA and CH of your fill water? Depending on your fill water, you may not have to add any CH at all.

Right now, assuming a 55F water temp (you did not report that value), your CSI would be -0.36. If you did nothing but let your pH rise to 7.8, then your CSI would be -0.08. Neither of those values are particularly corrosive to plaster. Your pH has a much greater impact on plaster damage than anything else. If the pH of 7.5 is just a momentary value because you added acid, then so be it. However, if you are trying to keep your pH that low purposely, then you might want to consider letting it go higher because there is little reason to have it at 7.5 or lower for most pools.
 
SanMarzano said:
Im confused shouldn't PH be between 75-78?
Click to expand...

I always ask because many people think you have to be lower than 7.5 for all the usual bogus reasons told to them by pool stores and such.

In the winter, when the water is cold and unused, it is perfectly acceptable to let your pH drift up and hover around 7.8. There's very little risk of scaling especially when CH is as low as yours is. Therefore, you can really save yourself money on acid by not trying to push the pH too low.

My pH will hang at 7.8 for weeks and not need much adjustment. At that pH, my CSI is fine and there's no reason to add acid. When I do, I don't go lower than 7.6 and then it's weeks again before any adjustment is needed.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
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