Pool always in a state of disarray

croco

0
Jan 13, 2016
10
gauteng
Hi.

Firstly thank you for the site, i have been using it to read up for some time now. We bought a house in January 2015 and it was this site that helped me get my pool great.
Unfortunately it has been an ongoing battle.

I am from South Africa. This summer has thus far reached temperatures of 39 Celsius or 102 F. So it gets hot here.
So i am posting here because the pool always has issues. I will try to give my suspicions of what can be contributing to it but will try to keep it structured to make it easier to diagnose.

Background information

Day 1 : ( day we moved in) Pool water was black.
Corrected PH levels and threw in Chlorine shock. Lots of it. Vacuumed and brushed. Took 3 weeks before it became clear.

Clearness lasted about 2 weeks then went back to a dark murky green.
Followed same steps but noticed CYA was low. Added too much CYA. Cya levels were way over the target and lasted for months always way over the limit.

Eventually installed a chlorinator. Pool seemed to behave. But again... only lasted about 2 weeks before going green.

On two occasions i forgot to turn the borehole pump off when filling to pool, flooding the entire yard and overfilled the pool. Immediately after this the pool is a dark brown green.
I recently replaced the filter sand.


The 2 main issues i have.
Algae is a constant problem. I have to shock or add algecide and the pool stays good for about 2 weeks.
All chemical levels are on the recommended levels.
The chlorinator has to be cleaned every 2nd day. It literally runs only for 1 day, on day 2 it is a solid calcium block.

Algae blooms or a constant. My chlorine levels are always low now. Possibly due to the chlorinator being a calcium block.

Suspicions
Leaking pipes are pushing soil into the pool. There is always a layer of dirt at the out pipe going into the pool and the general area is covered in sand and mud. Not a crazy amount but enough to notice it.
When the pump starts running it blows a cloud of brown water into the pool. Even if i backwash and run the filter for 20 minutes. It seems to never clear out, making me think its because of a pipe leaking sand or soil.
Calcium must be super high even though my water hardness is the the middle of the test strip.

What have i considered
I am considering just emptying the pool completely and fill it with tap water. I suspect the borehole water flushed out the salt and also the water hardness is too high. My neighbor told me every time he fills with the borehole he adds metal remover because the metal content in the water is super high. Though for the past 2 months i have not been using the borehole water to see if it improves the quality of the water.

I really hope someone can give me some insight. Keep in mind. No pool shop here can test the water for anything except chlorine levels.
Thx for reading
 
HI! We can get your pool clear and keep it clear! We have done it for thousands of pools before.

You make it sound like you do have a test kit or are in some way testing the water. What are you using?

You know what is coming if you have read this site any length of time------you HAVE to have a good test kit. There are several current threads on here now on where to buy a test kit on your side of the world. Without your own test kit you will keep up this cycle.

When you say "The chlorinator has to be cleaned every 2nd day. It literally runs only for 1 day, on day 2 it is a solid calcium block" What are you calling a chlorinator? And what is "a solid calcium block"? Pictures would be helpful.

Borehole water? Not sure what that is. Please explain.

I look forward to hearing from you so we can start clearing your pool!

Can you please add where you live in more detail as well as your pool details in your signature (settings, edit dignature) THANKS!

Kim
 
Thx.

Right now im using testing strips. 2 Different types. They are very basic to say the least.
I will make a plan to purchase a proper testing kit.

I believe the pool to be 44 000 liters (+- 11 000 Gallons)
Borehole = water well. Vertical drilled hole in the ground. (the aquifer delivers great water all year round. And the pressure i get from the pump tops out the pool in 10 minutes, which is why i preferred to use the borehole instead)

Live in centurion, pretoria area.

The chlorinator cell buildup does not look as crystallized as the following example but that is what i mean basically. The cell builds up in a day to the extent of generating no more chlorine. Mine looks a little more ridiculous but ive been staying strong and cleaning before and after work every day. Still... it should not be required as heavy users complain of cleaning it once a week. Which to me seems pretty amazing.
chlor-broken1.jpg
 
You simply need a good test kit. The Taylor K-2006 or the TFT-100 are the recommended options.

You most likely need to correct pH, and set an appropriate CYA target. Then, a proper SLAM. Once you are all cleaned up, the maintenance becomes easier.

But more accurate information can be given if you get a test kit and post complete results.
 
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