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Thread: Need clarity on Ca test

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Phx, AZ
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    Need clarity on Ca test

    First of all, wanted to thank you all for your support, this is my first major pool that I have to take care of and appreciate all the help.

    Firstly the tests:
    FC: 4.0
    CC: 0.5 (has been raining for past few days)
    pH: 7.6
    TA: 80
    CH:175
    CYA: 30
    Temp: 50's

    Bought a home w/ a pool with sky high CYA and had to perform an 80% refill.

    My question is on the CH test. 10 drops of R-0010, 3 drops R-0011L (rather oily consistency, not a large drop), then count R-0012.

    Firstly, with R-0011L, it doesn't turn a bright pink, more of a faded one, and when R-0012 is added, it quickly begins to lose its pink and goes into more of a faded purple. Again, as instructed keep dropping until you get blue. I'm assuming its a pale blue (not like primary color blue).

    Which always leaves me with 5-7 drops total. I have tried the instructions to hold back the fading endpoint (though the test isn't presenting this issue where it changes color then goes back) still no change. I always drop until it turns to what I think is blue then have added 3-5 more drops to make sure it doesn't turn "more blue" then go w/ the dropcount when it stopped changing.

    When it dropped to 125 w/ the rains, I added 4# of Calcium Chloride which did bring it up to 150-175. I am quite hesitant to dump a ton of Calcium in as "it doesn't go away" and I live in North-west Phoenix which is normally notorious for high CH fill water! Any clarity on this test would be great unless it really is this low and I am just being a worry wart!


    Oh and I did test my fill water which also showed 150.
    11,500 gal IG Plaster finish, CCP420 Cartridge, Superflo 1.5 VS , Swimpure+ / T-15 SWCG, KreepyKrawly, TF-100.

  2. Back To Top    #2
    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: Need clarity on Ca test

    There's a couple of ways you can modify the test to see if it helps -

    1. First, be sure to wipe the tip of the R-0011L bottle with a moist towel to remove any static as that can cause droplets to form incorrectly. Try to squeeze the bottle slowly and let the droplet form on the end and hang there for as long as possible to ensure maximum droplet volume. It's a tricky dye, so go slow.

    2. You can add an extra drop of the R-0011L dye to see if the color intensity is better. It's just an indicator dye, a small excess should not cause any problems.

    3. Follow the protocol for fading endpoint. Add the R-0010 (10 drops). Then add half the number of R-0012 drops. In your case, that would 2 to 3 drops of R-0012. Then add the indicator dye (R-0011L). Then add the R-0012 to find the blue endpoint. You then add all of the drops of R-0012 together to get your final drop count.

    The blue endpoint is not a deep blue. It is a light blue. Also, when I do the test, my initial solution is always a light pink-red to start, then it goes to light purple and then finally to the light blue.

    Do you have a SpeedStir? If not, get one...they are a huge help!

    I don't recommend you add calcium. Your water is going to naturally build it up quickly, especially here in the desert. Your evaporation rate of water will be substantial and your fill water will continuously add calcium. Down here in Tucson, I have 280ppm CH fill water and my pool goes up hundreds of ppm's per season in CH.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Kiss4aFrog's Avatar
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    Re: Need clarity on Ca test

    Just in case a show and tell would be helpful along with JoyfulNoise's great description: Calcium Hardness with the TF-100 - YouTube
    '70s IG Vinyl 32K gal, Lazy L, Hayward SuperPump 1.5hp 120V, S240 Sand Filter W/DE
    Solar Blanket, Well Water, Borax Added, TF-100 tester. ? too cold
    1979, 275gal Conway Emerald Spa P-100-2, ES-2 Spa Pack, bromine floater, indoor
    TF-100, Best test kit - TFTestkits.net
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  4. Back To Top    #4

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    Oct 2015
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    Phx, AZ
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    Re: Need clarity on Ca test

    Thank you for those tips, I did notice the 11 tends to make much smaller drops then everything else. Hadn't known that it may too suffer the static issue the TA test does as well.

    Also, FYI I was using the TF100 w/ the speedstir.

    The only thing that drove me to throw 4# in was due to the fact that with a lower pH that it was as well as being cold, CSI was -0.64 finally dropping out of the window. I will mind my pH a bit more to keep it within the window and see what the summer brings.
    11,500 gal IG Plaster finish, CCP420 Cartridge, Superflo 1.5 VS , Swimpure+ / T-15 SWCG, KreepyKrawly, TF-100.

  5. Back To Top    #5
    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: Need clarity on Ca test

    What pH are you targeting? In the winter time it is better to let your pH ride high (~7.8).


    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

  6. Back To Top    #6

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    Phx, AZ
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    Re: Need clarity on Ca test

    I've been keeping it within the 7.5-7.8 recommended. Recent drop was me being slightly overambitious with my acid and the rain keeping it low. Have been airating though to get her back to the middle to high. Definitely overly analyzing the pool (as it is the winter) trying to get up to speed with normal pool maintenance. Thank you for the heads up

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