Average bleach usage for season

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The advantages to Taylor are the acid demand tests and the box itself.

That's an interesting comment about the kit boxes. Sorry for the small pics but the Taylor K-2006 is about 4x5x9 with the reagents upright and the TF-100 is about 14x11x2 with the reagents laying down flat. (180 cubic inches vs. 300 cubic inches)

In just about equal numbers, we get this....

1. "I just love the way the TF-100 reagents are laid out....so easy to see and use"

2. "I just don't like the reagents laid out like the TF-100. Can't you make that kit so it is compact and upright like the K-2006?"

Yikes! What to do? :mrgreen:
 
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That's an interesting comment about the kit boxes. Sorry for the small pics but the Taylor K-2006 is about 4x5x9 with the reagents upright and the TF-100 is about 14x11x2 with the reagents laying down flat. (180 cubic inches vs. 300 cubic inches)

In just about equal numbers, we get this....

1. "I just love the way the TF-100 reagents are laid out....so easy to see and use"

2. "I just don't like the reagents laid out like the TF-100. Can't you make that kit so it is compact and upright like the K-2006?"

Yikes! What to do? :mrgreen:

I love the TF-100 box because it's flat, easily slides underneath a cabinet of ours for storage. Once I threw out the Basic blue box, my SpeedStir fits in there too, along with a couple extra calibrated mixing tubes. The only hard part for me is getting the blue scoop out of it's spot. 'Ol sausage fingers, I guess. That bit of gum adhesive on the scoop handle helps... sometimes.
 
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Not to get even more off-thread, but occasionally it does have its purpose.

...The acid demand test has a couple of advantages. It works even if the PH starts outside the range of your test kit. It only has two measurement errors, instead of three (PH twice, instead of PH, TA, and Borate). It also works when you don't have any idea what your TA and/or Borate levels are. However, it have one fairly large, but difficult to evaluate disadvantage, which is that a fair percentage of novices seem completely unable to master it at all. The PH test in general seems to be fairly intimidating for some people, and add another few steps to it and it seems to get beyond what they are capable of.
 
Either way you go, refills are easily gotten!

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The advantages to Taylor are the acid demand tests and the box itself. The main advantage to TFtestkits are the amount of reagents.

Agreed.

I think first time kit buyers are often confused by the fact that there are two K-2006 kits, the K-2006A and the K-2006C. The "C" kit is roomy enough to store 2 ounce bottles, upright, and the box is much roomier than the "A" kit.... so much so, that I have been able to store a LOT of extra equipment in the box: A 5mL graduated cylinder, a 50 ml cylinder, 1 Oz. Mannitol, 2 Oz. Bromothymol Blue, a 1/8 tsp. "borates spoon", an extra dropper bottle of R-0010 for borates, a Sample sizer, a Speedstir, a Unit dose dispenser, and 25 mL vials for each test. Nothing is laying down, preventing any possibility of a chemical spill, it has a handle for carrying, and the box is light proof, further protecting light sensitive chemicals, like R-0872 (in the amber bottle). It is still small enough to fit cozily into a cabinet in the kitchen, where I test.
 
I think I used about 20 gallons of 12% last year. I'll have to go figure that out tonight. I usually use 1 1/2 gallons a week. CYA at 35-40. Keep my FC around 5. I'm lazy and I let it dip lower than i should sometimes though. It tends to stay crystal clear and Ive never had algae.
 

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I love the TF-100 box because it's flat, easily slides underneath a cabinet of ours for storage. Once I threw out the Basic blue box, my SpeedStir fits in there too, along with a couple extra calibrated mixing tubes. The only hard part for me is getting the blue scoop out of it's spot. 'Ol sausage fingers, I guess. That bit of gum adhesive on the scoop handle helps... sometimes.

I took a lighter n heated the end of the spoon enough to bend it up so I could grab it. Works perfectly.
 
Canada here.

I think this year, I used about 15 jugs of 5L/1.32gal (~20 gallons of 10.8), but I am still using my puck chlorinator (more often at the beginning of the year) for topping off.

We did run our outdoor pool till January 11th (here in Canada)!

COST: My cost is approximately CAD$4/gallon (USD$3/gallon) for common Canadian Tire 10.8% jugs. $4.99 for 5L, which is 1.32 gallon. Sometimes they occasionally go on sale (I've seen CAD$2.99) -- when that happens that's literally just 2 dollars USD a gallon, very competitive for Canada.

BRAND: Varies, sometimes Aquarius/Purox/etc.
Can't remember which brand had the CAD$2.99/jug sale, but I think it was Aquarius, which is Canadian Tire's in-house brand for pool stuff.

STRENGTH: It is typically 10.8% and not 12.5% but close enough for my needs (one jug dump brings me >10ppm, full jug only when I need to clear up water) and Canadian Tire keeps lots of fresh stock during the summer, with a much shorter drive than any alternatives whether stronger or only a few pennies cheaper.
 
If you are asking me, no my equipment pad is behind my shed on the north side, so it doesn't get much direct sunlight. I did use the strainer drain plug for the first year but then changed to a tapped fitting on the suction side plumbing. If i had to do again I would stick with the drain plug. With the tapped fitting, on occasions, I get a small suction leak.
 
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