Pump Making Loud Screeching Noise.

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hellstorm2004

hellstorm2004

0
Jul 1, 2015
182
Richardson, Texas
Hello All,

I recently went on a vacation, about 1.5 months. After i came back the pool was fine chlorine-wise. But my pump is making a loud noise when it turns on. It is loud and annoying. I just hope my neighbors don't complain!! I did not run the pump yesterday. But i had to turn it on today. And its loud. Can you please let me know what could be the problem?? I have an A.O Smith 2HP pump. I googled a bit and found fixes from changing the pump to changing the motor to fixing the capacitor. My pressure has dropped from about 9 to 5psi as well. Not sure if that is a major concern.
 
I had the problem last year but my home warranty got me an entire new pump. There are other people on here that have changed out the bearings themselves so they may be able to offer you their advice since I have never attempted it myself.
 
wjr75 said:
I had the problem last year but my home warranty got me an entire new pump. There are other people on here that have changed out the bearings themselves so they may be able to offer you their advice since I have never attempted it myself.
Click to expand...

I wish my home warranty would buy me a new pump. Who is your home warranty ? Mine is loud as well and I was thinking about opening it this weekend.
 
Changing out the impeller, seals and o-rings on a motor/wet-end replacement is a doable DIY project. Opening up an electric motor and attempting to rebuild the bearings is ill-advised. Most people simply do not have the workshop and tooling necessary for removing and reseating bearings as well as resurfacing a worn shaft. As well, improper handling of the stator and coils can lead to damaged windings which is an electrical hazard.

If the pump motor is screeching, it's time discard the old motor and install a new motor. Few should attempt a motor rebuild.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
We have Home Warranty of America. We have used them for about 5 years and has paid for its self every year. Adding the pool equipment is an extra 120 bucks per year. Since I have a new pump now and a newer heater I probably won't carry the pool portion anymore.
 

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There are many videos on the net, that go into great detail about replacing the bearings. Takes a few tools that you can get 'free' use of from a local auto parts store. The bearings can be bought there too. Make sure you get the correct replacement ones. All in all it's a very simple job. The hardest part for me was getting the wires back into the motor through the 'flexible' conduit.
 
Most all home warranty companies Have a Hugh claim decline rate. Their contractors are often the bottom feeders of the construction trade as the carriers pay 1/2 of the going labor rate. Consequently, you get a lot of contrived "upsell" when they do honor the claim so the contractor can make up that labor rate shortfall (eg, "we will replace your furnace but you'll have to pay for all new ducting to fit this unit").

They are also trained to look for anything that they can use to apply the "pre-existing condition" coverage exclusion. The larger warranty companies mentioned are notorious for this.

It's simply a matter of the carriers deftly juggling industry driven financial dynamics, i.e., what they pay out in claims vs their policy premium revenues. This dynamic forces the carrier to decline coverage on otherwise legitimate claims, and that ratio is really high. They could not sustain a profit margin were it otherwise.

So yes, some will benefit from this coverage, but a huge number will be declined, and typically for reasons that will require a suspension of disbelief.

Denial of claims relating to expensive pool equipment is almost universal so very fortunate that your pool pump claim was honored. Good for you.
 
hellstorm2004 said:
Thanks guys for the inputs. I hit my first road block now!! Can't take out the screws at all. Was able to do 2.. but can't remove the other two!! Any tips on how to do it?

I could do a home warranty... but DIY is much more fun! :)
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Hi and welcome from a newbie. I don't offer advise on pool care as I'm still learning plus there this place is full of great experts on that part. But I do have a LOT of experience with pumps that have electric motor and engine drivers. I'm guessing you're talking about the 4 long bolts on the motor that hold the case together? That's the problem with the videos. Most show almost new or new motors that are nothing like the corroded motor you'll be dealing with after the seal in the pump leaks for a year or two and then finally causes enough corrosion to damage the bearing that makes the screeching noise. I'm pretty sure this is why Matt recommended replacing the whole thing. I've actually done the disassembly of terribly corroded motors like this and I completely agree that it's not something the average pool owner should try. But I've got a very well equipped shop and a lot of shop experience and here's what I did. The problem you have is the bolts are steel and the end caps are aluminum or magnesium alloy. The dissimilar metals in contact create a corrosion cell that doesn't need much water to fuse completely. For some reason one or two are always frozen and the others are not. If you are lucky you'll be able to access the threaded ends and then squirt penetrating oil on them and coax them out. But it take a LOT of patience and repeat applications. Even with this you'll probably eventually twist them in two. So the only reliable way to do this is to drill the head off the frozen bolts then remove the case. Then grip the frozen end with vise-grips close the threaded in end and again be very patient with multiple applications. There's a video of this technique and even if you do this successfully you'll most likely have a bearing corroded into the housing on the end that is extremely hard to free. It is also clamped in with metal lugs that have steel threads that are frozen solid. It's very easy to break the end cap using a puller as shown on the videos also if you use a standard claw puller. If you are able to do both of these successfully you'll be able to do this for your time and the cost of a bearing set (~$20). If not you'll need to drill out the broken screws and tap the existing hole to the next size up which is probably a #10-24 and cut a piece of all-thread from Home Depot to fit and just put a nut with lock washer at the other end. Be sure to use plenty of anti-seize on any dissimilar threaded connections. If you break the end cap you'll be buying a new motor which is about $180 online or $300+ at the local pool supply. Or you can just take your motor to a good motor/alternator shop and they'll usually rebuild it for about 1/2 the online cost and they do a lot more than just replace the bearing. If you do go through the repair process successfully you'll need the bearing it's most likely a B-6202, 6203, or 6204-RS but bring the bearing with you to be sure. You can get it at a bearing distributor in any major city for around $8 each (you'll need 2). One last thing. Please do follow the previous recommendation to replace the pump seal assembly if you don't get a new pump. It's very simple to do and will make your repaired last a lot longer. It's probably what caused your problem in the first place. They are available at all the pool stores online and even the local seal suppliers and even most big pool supply stores.

One of the things I really like about this site is they give great advice on how to do things and often have different solutions. Then they leave it to you to decide what approach you want to take. I have tried to do the same and I just think it's important that you know what your really going to face rather than what's depicted on most of the videos.

I hope this is helpful to you.

Chris
 
The problem with most of them is the front bearing is the one going out and it's due to the seal leaking and water making it into the bearing and dripping in the front end. It also causes some really nasty corrosion. I attempted to take two motors I was given apart only to destroy them trying to get them apart. I took the working one loose and replaced the bolts between the motor and pump with stainless steel as in one of the free motor/pumps my problem was the four bolts had corroded so badly they actually expanded and were breaking the plastic pump housing.

I pulled the long bolts one at a time and used anti-seize on the threads so should I need to take it apart they won't shear on me. If you get the motor on a bench you can try a torch, P.B. Blaster (penetrant) and a 1/4" impact gun. Yup, 1/4" not a 3/8 or 1/2. The reason for the 1/4" impact is it doesn't have much power and you're using the small but rapid hammer blows to break the fastener loose. I bought one specifically for doing automotive brake bleeders and seized spark plugs in aluminum heads. It works like a charm.
 
Kiss4,

Thanks much for the 1/4" impact drive idea! Sounds like a much better way than I've done in the past. For some reason impact drives always seem to work better on frozen bolts but on the very thin bolts 1/4" impact may work way better than my 3/8". Mine are all air drives is that what you're using? I'll try this next motor I do and report back.

Chris
 

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