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Thread: Second option on balancing water

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    Second option on balancing water

    So, I think I got it but I want a second option. I have used all of the charts and pool math. Should I have my CYA at 40? Thanks for the help!

    FC 4
    CC 0
    CH 325
    CYA 30
    TA 110
    pH 7.6
    Temp 60F
    27K Gal, IG Plaster, Hayward EcoStar Variable Pump, Pentair DE FNS Plus Filter 24, Hayward AquaRite with extended life T-CELL-15
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    Casey's Avatar
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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    Lookin good! How's the water look?
    I'd bet you my bikini you'll never get TFP water from a pool store!

    24' Sharkline Venture De Filter

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    Divin Dave's Avatar
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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    You numbers look ok. Whether or not a person should increase the CYA is determined largely on how much FC is being consumed over the course of time.

    The largest factor regarding the CYA level, is how much UV you recieve in your area. UV eats up FC, CYA helps slow that process down. People in the lower latitudes across the US generally do increase their CYA up to as high as 50. The recommended levels chart for Non SWG is 30-50 just for this reason.

    Quote Originally Posted by Imracerx View Post
    So, I think I got it but I want a second option. I have used all of the charts and pool math. Should I have my CYA at 40? Thanks for the help!

    FC 4
    CC 0
    CH 325
    CYA 30
    TA 110
    pH 7.6
    Temp 60F
    Divin Dave,
    IG Vinyl, 15' x 30', 3 1/2' - 6' deep, Oval, ~15K gal, Intelliclor IC40, Intelliflo VS pump, Clean and Clear 420 Filter, auto-fill-disabled, Retrofit LED Color Light, Dolphin Nautilus Robot, TF100 Test Kit, Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit, Tftestkit Pressure Gauge.
    www.tftestkits.net Experience- it's what's learned just after you needed it most !!

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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    Crystal clear

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Divin Dave View Post
    You numbers look ok. Whether or not a person should increase the CYA is determined largely on how much FC is being consumed over the course of time.

    The largest factor regarding the CYA level, is how much UV you recieve in your area. UV eats up FC, CYA helps slow that process down. People in the lower latitudes across the US generally do increase their CYA up to as high as 50. The recommended levels chart for Non SWG is 30-50 just for this reason.
    I am in San Diego. So a CYA of 50 would be better correct?

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    Quote Originally Posted by Imracerx View Post
    Crystal clear

    - - - Updated - - -



    I am in San Diego. So a CYA of 50 would be better correct?
    Yes. But in the off-season, you'll hardly lose any FC so there's no hurry. With any luck, the El Nino will dilute the pool this year and you'll have to raise it in the spring.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    My only suggestion is that your TA looks a little on the high side. It will probably be ok for now and there's no rush to "fix" it but in the summer you may see your pH rise a lot. If your TA is still above 100ppm, then you might want to consider lowering it as high TA can lead to fast pH rise. Again, not something to go out a fix right now, just something to keep an eye on.

    What is the quality of your fill water (pH, TA, CH)?
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    Quote Originally Posted by JoyfulNoise View Post
    My only suggestion is that your TA looks a little on the high side. It will probably be ok for now and there's no rush to "fix" it but in the summer you may see your pH rise a lot. If your TA is still above 100ppm, then you might want to consider lowering it as high TA can lead to fast pH rise. Again, not something to go out a fix right now, just something to keep an eye on.

    What is the quality of your fill water (pH, TA, CH)?
    What level is ideal for TA?

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    Quote Originally Posted by Imracerx View Post
    What level is ideal for TA?
    Whatever value gives you the most stable pH. For some people (like me), it would have to be ridiculously low so that's not practical. I try to keep my TA below 70ppm and supplement my pool with 50ppm borates. That makes my pH very stable.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Divin Dave's Avatar
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    Re: Second option on balancing water

    Getting your TA adjusted just right is part of the learning curve. TA buffers the pH. So, keep a record of how quickly your TA rises. If its pretty quick and you have to add Muriatic Acid more than often enough to suit you to lower the pH, then you can lower the TA to help buffer that.

    It takes time to lower and then monitor it for a while, so it takes a good bit of time to get it where things become stable. So patience is key.
    Divin Dave,
    IG Vinyl, 15' x 30', 3 1/2' - 6' deep, Oval, ~15K gal, Intelliclor IC40, Intelliflo VS pump, Clean and Clear 420 Filter, auto-fill-disabled, Retrofit LED Color Light, Dolphin Nautilus Robot, TF100 Test Kit, Taylor K1766 Salt Test Kit, Tftestkit Pressure Gauge.
    www.tftestkits.net Experience- it's what's learned just after you needed it most !!

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