Hey folks...I hope to get pictures posted soon, but we just had our pool installed over the weekend (24' AGP). The pool has all resin uprights, pool wall guides, and topseats...only the pool wall is steel. My electrician took a peek at it and seems it does not have to be bonded. Anyone here experience the same with their resin AGP?
How to bond a resin pool?
- Thread starter dmanb2b
- Start date
dmanb2b said:
To be code, the shell of the pool must be connected to a bonding wire that runs to the pump area, even if the pump is double-insulated and can't be bonded. This is a little extreme, but it is intended to avoid a user replacing the pump with a non-double-insulated type and having no bond wire available. It also makes the wire available for heaters, SWCGs or any other device that contacts the pool water.
You might be okay IF: You have no metal railings or fixed ladders or slides on the pool AND your pump is double-insulated AND there is nothing within 5 ft of the pool walls that is made of metal and is larger than a 4 inch square AND you have no electrical components like an SWCG or heater. You are probably safe, but you are not code compliant.
I don't know if the Intex SWG has a bonding lug, but it probably should.
If the pool is considered a "Storable Pool", then it does not need to be bonded and it must have a double insulated pump. Most above ground pools that are 42" deep or shallower are considered storable.
If the water is deeper than 42", or the pool is installed in a way which prohibits storage, then each individual metal part, ie every panel, must be connected to a #8 copper bonding wire and that wire must run to where the pump is. If the pump is double insulated the bonding wire is connected to ground, otherwise it is connected to the bonding lug on the pump.
Note that some local jurisdictions redefine "Storable Pool" to be much more restrictive so that most above ground pool do need to be bonded. Likewise, a few jurisdictions do not require much of anything, though in that case you are still safest following the code, since someone who was injured at your pool can sue you for failing to follow industry standard practices.
If the water is deeper than 42", or the pool is installed in a way which prohibits storage, then each individual metal part, ie every panel, must be connected to a #8 copper bonding wire and that wire must run to where the pump is. If the pump is double insulated the bonding wire is connected to ground, otherwise it is connected to the bonding lug on the pump.
Note that some local jurisdictions redefine "Storable Pool" to be much more restrictive so that most above ground pool do need to be bonded. Likewise, a few jurisdictions do not require much of anything, though in that case you are still safest following the code, since someone who was injured at your pool can sue you for failing to follow industry standard practices.
Thanks for the quick replies...one question though...the pool is 24'x52" and is not considered storable. The only metal on the pool is the steel wall...the uprights, top seat, botton wall rail are all resin...so do I drill a hole in the wall to attach a bonding screw?
The electrician who put in the service for my pool put a ring terminal on the bonding wire and put it under one of the nuts for the accessory/connecting panel (the metal panel that connects the two ends of the wall). The local inspector passed it.
Thanks Mike...here are some pics in case you guys wanted to see they construct of the pool...My only problem now is how do I remove the upright where the wall is bolted together, given the pool is now filled 
?
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww30/dmanb2b/?newest=1
?http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww30/dmanb2b/?newest=1
anyone have a suggestion how to attach a bonding screw to the pool wall given the bolts connection the wall together are now covered by an upright?
Unfortunately, I don't. You might try pm'ing Ted aka Waste and see if he can think of anything. He does pool builds for a living.
dmanb2b said:
I have the same pool type...Here is what you have to do...There is a place where the side wall comes together and it is bolted. Then there is a resin strip that goes over the strip of bolts to cover up the bolt...You have to get number 8 copper wire, and a special copper wire fitting that goes on over one of those bolts on the pool wall. It is a square fitting that has a screw that runs through the box and then the screw holds the wire firm...There should be one on the back of you pump from the manufacturer. All you do is connect this fitting to the bold and replace the nut over the top of the fitting and then connect the cooper wire to that fitting and then to the back of the filter...Once that is done you are bonded...Some municiple codes don't require it...mine did...Poolmoms did not. But there should be a section in your pump instructions that show you how to do it...But be sure you get at least 8 feet of wire. I will look for my previous post on this from last summer.
dmanb2b said:Thanks Mike...here are some pics in case you guys wanted to see they construct of the pool...My only problem now is how do I remove the upright where the wall is bolted together, given the pool is now filled
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww30/dmanb2b/?newest=1
You can take the section of the top rail off right at the upright, and pull the upright back slightly, and try to get at one of those nuts that way...I know that the upright is screwed in place but if you haven't filled the pool completely yet you might be able to do it. Did the you have to have an electrical inspection done? What did the inspector say. This really is a safety issue, not for the people in the pool but if you would develop sometype of electrical problem ouside of the pool say your pump shorts out. Bonding the pump to the pool makes the ground around the pool safe even if it wet. You cannot get electicuted if it is bonded if there is a short.
Thanks guys...appreciate the advice...inspection is not due until I get the electrical run out next week...trencher comes weds. If I can't move the upright I may have to dig under the wall (builder put in a 3" sand base) and drill a hole at the bottom if the wall ...Carefully!!!
dman,
Let us know how this went...I am interested to see how you solve this. It is a shame that the pool builder put you bolt column behind an upright. On My Resin Pool They just left it exposed on the back by the filter, and then ran a resin covoer over it that just pops off. So much easier...
Let us know how this went...I am interested to see how you solve this. It is a shame that the pool builder put you bolt column behind an upright. On My Resin Pool They just left it exposed on the back by the filter, and then ran a resin covoer over it that just pops off. So much easier...
Hey cubby...ty so much for your help...I think I am going to luck out...since my uprights are resin I can actually bend it a little and see the screws where the wall comes together. Need to go buy me a grounding block and some #8awg wire and I should be all set. Will post pics after I have it all hooked up. :lol:
Great advice given here so far. Do not drill a hole in the wall, under any circumstances.
The upright should be held in place with screws at the bottom. Removing those would be much easier that going at it from the top.
Pulling the post back might work but pulling the bottom screws whold give you a lot better access.
There should be tape on the inside of the wall that will sort of hold the screw head in place while you loosen the nut. If the bolt turns, just go to the next one. Somewhere before you reach the top you should find one where the nut can be removed.
Later, Dennis
The upright should be held in place with screws at the bottom. Removing those would be much easier that going at it from the top.
Pulling the post back might work but pulling the bottom screws whold give you a lot better access.
There should be tape on the inside of the wall that will sort of hold the screw head in place while you loosen the nut. If the bolt turns, just go to the next one. Somewhere before you reach the top you should find one where the nut can be removed.
Later, Dennis
Dennis said:
Dennis...Thanks for letting me know about that...I didn't even thing about the bottom...Is it common for the column of screws to be hidden by the upright? My pool guy wouldn't hear of it. I asked him...They just placed a removable channel strip over it so I could remove it if necessary...First nut I lossend came right off. Simplest think in the world to do.
pulling the post back worked....the wall is now bonded to my pump...will post pics when I get a chance...just got it done using my trusty flashlight...thx eveyone for your help...elec inspector comes next week
Thanks to everyone here...here are some pics of how I was able to bond my pool wall....in the process of lowering TA....you can see my homemade aerator as well
Thanks again
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww30/dmanb2b/
Thanks again
http://s702.photobucket.com/albums/ww30/dmanb2b/
nope...just stuck my finger in there...pulled it back...wedged my skimmer pole in between the wall and the upright to give me room to unscrew the nut...after that it was a piece of cake