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Thread: 120V lights wired directly to OmniLogic?

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    N. Atlanta burbs

    120V lights wired directly to OmniLogic?

    Hey, I've recently installed a Hayward OmniLogic as an upgrade to my pool. In addition to filter pump, cleaner pump, and heater, I have two 120V lights installed.

    I know everyone is gonna tell me to upgrade to the new color changing LED's, and that might happen next year; but for now I just want to get the existing lights wired and working.

    In my research on this I read that the wiring from the lights is supposed to go to a junction box prior to the controller. The way they "were" wired, before I took everything apart, is that
    each light ran the bundled 3 wire (black, white, and yellow/green) and the 8 gauge bonding wire to the controller box, where the neutral ran to a switch location. So, no separate junction box...

    So, at the OmniLogic I have three conduits coming out of the ground. Two as described above with the light wires plus bond, and one with a standard 3 wire 120VAC run. My intent is to use the former
    "switch run" to simply run 120VAC to that location as I can use that for powering ceiling fans, etc... For the lights, I'm planning on installing a GFCI breaker into the OmniLogic and using one of the
    high voltage relays to turn the lights on/off, with no physical switch.

    Is this legit? Did my original pool installer have something wrong?

    I understand all about bonding versus ground, and plan to make sure the existing bonding wires are tied into the rest of the equipment (pumps, heater, etc..). My concern is really just about wiring the
    lights... and the need for a separate junction box when the OmniLogic can provide the GFCI internally.



  2. Back To Top    #2

    TFP Guide

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Central Valley CA

    Re: 120V lights wired directly to OmniLogic?

    Looking at the code I don't see any statements that say a J box is required It talks about it as if it were a forgone conclusion but I never saw the word required, as long as the conduit extends at least 8 inches above max water level i think you are good. The wire does need to be protected so if the conduit does not go all the way to the panel you will have to extend it but other than that I think you are good. Even if it is required there is some times a gap between what is code and what is safe. You probably know this but just to be sure in order for the GFCI breaker to work properly the neutral and hot for the light both connect to the GFCI breaker then the neutral built into the breaker connects to the neutral bus bar. A less expensive option than the breaker would be to instal a GFCI outlet in the box that used to hold the light switch, then feed the output of the outlet to the lights. You can still feed the hot line down to the outlet off of one of the relays but now it is a GFCI circuit plus you have a convenient outlet. A side note one thing I see that gets missed is that the ground bar should Not be bonded to the neutral in the pool control panel that should only be done in your houses main breaker box not a subpanel like your OmniLogic. Even that is one of those things that is not unsafe in 99% of situations but it's code.
    12,300 Gallon, IG PebbleFina, 3 ft sheer, 2 Jandy nicheless LED lights, Jandy Pro 1.5HP VS pump (A.O. Smith Motor), PB4-60 Booster pump, Polaris 280, Jandy cv340 cartridge filter, Zodiac Z4 control panel W/iAquaLink, Stenner pumps for chlorine & MA connected to WiOn WiFi switches, TF-100. You can support TFP with AmazonSmile just click the link!

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Sacramento, CA

    Re: 120V lights wired directly to OmniLogic?

    Any connection from a wet niche to the electrical system must be through a listed junction box or other enclosure complying with all the requirements of NEC 680.24. NEC 680.23(B)(2). So while a junction box is not required whatever you substitute must meet the junction box requirements, ALL THE REQUIREMENTS, of NEC 680.24. Like extra grounding lugs and strain relief. If it doesn't meet all the requirements of NEC 680.24 it does not comply with code.

    This is why almost all pool builders use junction box. If they use a junction box then the installation meets code. If they don't they have to prove that the enclosure where the luminary cord terminates comply with 680.24. So they spend an extra $15 to be sure they comply. A listed pool junction box costs me and you more because we are not buying 25 at a time.

    Non electricians and DYI's should ALLWAYS use a junction box. First, you don't have to worry about whether your terminating enclosure complies with the code. Its a listed box, Argument over. Second, there are plenty of diagrams on the interweb about how to wire wet niche luminaries with a junction box. Just search Mike Holt pool light. There are others too. I know of no set of comprehensive diagrams or checklists for making sure your enclosure complies with 680.24 except the code itself. Third, the inspector is looking for a junction box. Give the inspector what he is looking for. Finally, its electricity, its a pool, do it right, KISS, and don't try and reinvent the wheel.

    We can help you work through your wiring issue. But its better to work through the code rather than around it.

    Oh my junction box is six inches from my subpanel. PB installs what the inspector expects and electrical gets signed off.
    22k gallon IG pebblefina, Jandy 1.5 HP VS, Jandy CV Cartridge filter, Fafco solar panels, Polaris 360 supply side cleaner, waterfall

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