Lights/electrical question

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JamieP

JamieP

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Platinum Supporter
May 16, 2011
1,180
TX (~30 miles south of Dallas)
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Plaster
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I need to figure out which cord lengths to buy for the 3 intellibrite LEDs our pool will have. I've been looking into this a bit and it seems they get run to a junction box somewhere near the pool (with specific distances and elevations from the pool water based on code), so my cord lengths should be based on where this junction box is located and each light's distance from it. Is this correct? This will help me determine where the best place for the junction box would be.

Also, we will have two lighted bubblers and I'm wondering if the electrical for these is also run to the same electrical junction box?

Finally, is the electrical from the junction box then run back to the pad to coordinate with the automation?

I know these are pretty basic questions, but I've got to learn somewhere! :)
 
That seems like the simplest thing to do. I wonder if it's a question of how far the distance is to my pad and whether the cords will go that far. I'll have to take some measurements to see if that would work.

Also, the lights cost more the longer the cords get. I wonder if one way is more economical than another... Shorter cords to a junction box, then run to the pad, or run directly to the pad with the longer cords?
 
Mine go to a junction box and/or controller box at the pad. Don't go too short or you are...
 
You are correct the lights go to a J box that is elevated above the water line a certain distance usually within a few feet of the control panel or switch. Check your local code and add at least a few inches just above what is required incase your inspector has a faulty tape measure ;) If you get the 120V version after the J box they can go right to a GFCI protected circuit on your control panel or a switch, if you get the 12V version they go to a GFCI protected transformer above the J box that goes to the control panel or switch. I don't see any problems with running the bubbler lights to the same box but I would check with the city when you pull your permits on stuff like that. be sure to leave enough length to coil in the niche to bring the light up on the deck should you ever need to service it or clean behind it.
 
JamieP said:
That seems like the simplest thing to do. I wonder if it's a question of how far the distance is to my pad and whether the cords will go that far. I'll have to take some measurements to see if that would work.

Also, the lights cost more the longer the cords get. I wonder if one way is more economical than another... Shorter cords to a junction box, then run to the pad, or run directly to the pad with the longer cords?
Click to expand...

Ideally you'd like to have one single j-box at the equipment pad. I doubt the cost of an electrician's time and materials to run two j-box's with the required conduit and trenching will be cheaper than just one j-box and the longest cord length available. I've seen lights with over 300-ft of cord length. How far exactly is your equipment pad from the pool?

Matt
 
Until you determine the location of your j boxes (or box)hold off on ordering your lights.

Generally you want a short run from the light niche to the j box. That run is the cord attached to your light. Part of that run is submerged and its a relatively thick cord. Its easyer to replace when that happens fifteen years after the pool is built. Second, the run from the j box to the subpanel or pool automation can be regular wire so its much simpler to pull.

Now I break both these rules and my j box is 35 feet from my pool next to my pool automation box. but is a fairly straight run.

Generally you need a j box and cannot run the light cord directly into the pool automation or a subpanel or switch.

Pool light junction boxes must have a special ul listing and must be set specific distances from and above the pool. Your electrician will handle that.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Ideally you'd like to have one single j-box at the equipment pad. I doubt the cost of an electrician's time and materials to run two j-box's with the required conduit and trenching will be cheaper than just one j-box and the longest cord length available. I've seen lights with over 300-ft of cord length. How far exactly is your equipment pad from the pool?

Matt
Click to expand...

The pad is kitty corner to the top right of our freeform pool, about 20 ft away from the water edge on that side, but the lights are all on the bottom side of the pool, closest to the house. So assuming they are wired around the underside of the pool as opposed to around the far side, the longest run for the farthest light is pushing right at 150', so I'd probably want to go a little longer for that one just in case.

Now that you've explained how the J box works in relation to the pad, plus with the cord lengths I see that these lights come in, it does make more sense to get long enough cords to reach the pad. And they don't seem that long after all.

Flippy said:
Mine go directly to my equipment pad into the panel. Also just because the light is < 20 feet away does not mean that it does not take the long route around the pool at over 100 feet. I learned that the hard way.
Click to expand...

What was the reason they didn't take the shortest route?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Generally they are going to follow the plumbing trench.

Generally you don't want to use a 150 foot run for the light cords. That would be unnecessarily expensive. You will want a j box over to the side and out of the way. The cords will run from the light niches to the j box and then regular wire to the pad. In cost alone that's in excess of $200 I would bet. Four -- 150 foot runs -- each in their own conduit -- vs a j box and one run -- Your electrician will say HE double toothpicks no.

- - - Updated - - -

You should not order the lights until after the electrical is roughed in. In other words after all the conduit is installed. Generally you want the shortest most direct route for this run because you are running cord through the conduit not strands of wire.
 
gwegan said:
Generally they are going to follow the plumbing trench.

Generally you don't want to use a 150 foot run for the light cords. That would be unnecessarily expensive. You will want a j box over to the side and out of the way. The cords will run from the light niches to the j box and then regular wire to the pad. In cost alone that's in excess of $200 I would bet. Four -- 150 foot runs -- each in their own conduit -- vs a j box and one run -- Your electrician will say HE double toothpicks no.

- - - Updated - - -

You should not order the lights until after the electrical is roughed in. In other words after all the conduit is installed. Generally you want the shortest most direct route for this run because you are running cord through the conduit not strands of wire.
Click to expand...

Thank you, this is very helpful. I was already coming to the conclusion that I should just wait on ordering the lights until I at least picked an electrician and spoke to him, but knowing I can wait until the electrical is roughed in is even better. I appreciate you explaining the benefits of a closer junction box too. That's how I had originally thought it had to be done, but it's all new to me so I wasn't sure.

At least after everyone's help I know I don't have to order the lights right away. That alone is a weight off. Thanks everyone!
 
JamieP said:
I need to figure out which cord lengths to buy for the 3 intellibrite LEDs our pool will have. I've been looking into this a bit and it seems they get run to a junction box somewhere near the pool (with specific distances and elevations from the pool water based on code), so my cord lengths should be based on where this junction box is located and each light's distance from it. Is this correct? This will help me determine where the best place for the junction box would be.

Also, we will have two lighted bubblers and I'm wondering if the electrical for these is also run to the same electrical junction box?



Finally, is the electrical from the junction box then run back to the pad to coordinate with the automation?

I know these are pretty basic questions, but I've got to learn somewhere! :)
Click to expand...


3 Intellibrites!!! Wow I cannot wait to see those, its gonna be awesome!!! All my lighting runs to the panel (Pentair Easytouch)
 
azjoshers79 said:
3 Intellibrites!!! Wow I cannot wait to see those, its gonna be awesome!!! All my lighting runs to the panel (Pentair Easytouch)
Click to expand...

Uh oh... Now I'm wondering if 3 Intellibrites is going to be overkill! It's going to be a big pool though (926 sq ft, 120 ft perimeter) and is a freeform L shape, so I'm trying to make sure I've got good light coverage. I need to look into how to get a photobucket account soon so I can start posting more pictures than my small TFP site allotment.
 
I don't think it will be overkill! It's gonna be sweet!!! My contractor just told me that depending on the depth of any Baja/tanning shelves the large lights like intelli brites will not light them very well. That's why I went with Globrites in the main walls and in the walls of each shelf.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
* I recommend the low voltage lights. Some say that there's still an electrical risk with either kind (low or regular 110 voltage), but I can't help but think it's better to have less power in the pool.
* You will need multiple transformers at the pad to do the conversion from regular voltage to low voltage. Probably 2 300 watt units if you are going with 3 5G's and 2 bubblers. This ends up being essentially the same price wise, because you pay extra for a transformer built into the unit if you go with regular voltage light.
* I'm pretty sure you will need to have independent conduit and wire running all of the way back to the pad if you want to be able to control each light independently (turning them on/off and having them be different colors). You can save money with the J-box idea near the pool, but I think you will have to sacrifice those features if you do.

So many decisions ... so much information ... eh!

Don't worry, eventually your head stops spinning and you have an incredible pool to enjoy.

Good luck!
 
imperator said:
* I recommend the low voltage lights. Some say that there's still an electrical risk with either kind (low or regular 110 voltage), but I can't help but think it's better to have less power in the pool.
* You will need multiple transformers at the pad to do the conversion from regular voltage to low voltage. Probably 2 300 watt units if you are going with 3 5G's and 2 bubblers. This ends up being essentially the same price wise, because you pay extra for a transformer built into the unit if you go with regular voltage light.
* I'm pretty sure you will need to have independent conduit and wire running all of the way back to the pad if you want to be able to control each light independently (turning them on/off and having them be different colors). You can save money with the J-box idea near the pool, but I think you will have to sacrifice those features if you do.

So many decisions ... so much information ... eh!

Don't worry, eventually your head stops spinning and you have an incredible pool to enjoy.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thank you! At one point we had looked into the low voltage, but somehow that dropped off my radar (probably because of the added complication of the transformers, to my already overflowing brain!) We do like the idea of less voltage in the pool, so we will have to revisit this setup.

On another note, I'm wondering if I wait to buy the actual lights until I get a better idea of what I'm doing, do I at least need to have the niches ready to go for when the locations are formed in the gunite?
 
Yes, the electricians need to hang the light niches after rebar goes in. So you will need to have those on site for them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk,16k gal SWG pool (All Pentair), QuadDE100 Filter, Taylor K-2006
 
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