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Thread: Raypak R406a PRS and ROL codes BUT...

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Buford, Georgia
    Posts
    16

    Raypak R406a PRS and ROL codes BUT...

    Hello,

    I have a Raypak R-406a heater, and I'm getting ROL and PRS "Clean filter/strainer" codes. I'm not an HVAC or pool guy, but I have been doing my research. As an aside- last year we had ice damage and I had to replace all valves and the filter, as well as the header gasket in the heater.

    It seems for the ROL, it is common for spider webs to cause clogs somewhere. I wouldn't know where on the unit to look for this. I'm also noticing that the unit isn't clicking or firing up at all, but I'm not sure if the PRS error would cause that. As far as pressure goes, the skimmer is clean and I have high pressure (not sure of the exact PSI but it's in the 20s). It has brand spanking new cartridge filters- like installed yesterday.

    Here are a few pictures of what I'm working with...






  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Buford, Georgia
    Posts
    16

    Re: Raypak R406a PRS and ROL codes BUT...

    Another pic... Should I be checking these for potential blockage per the ROL code?


  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Buford, Georgia
    Posts
    16

    Re: Raypak R406a PRS and ROL codes BUT...

    In case anyone looks at this thread, I did eventually fix the problem.

    I was having flame rollout, caused by some junk up in the heat exchange. I couldn't find much on the internet, so I just started taking the unit apart until I found the thing.

    Step 1, replaced the ROL switch. It's very simple. Shut off all power (I also closed the gas line). The switch is located on the bottom left corner behind the front panel, connected by two red wires. Simply remove the screw holding them in place, unplug the wires, and plug them into the new switch, then place it back where it belongs. The part I used was ETNA #RYD152P4H.

    Once I replaced the switch, I turned everything back on with the front panel off, so that I could see where the rollout was happening. This was probably a bad idea, but sure enough this time the flames kicked on, no problem, and there was a yellow flame licking both the bottom right and bottom left corner of the front panel. By the way, I had not replaced the ROL switch to it's normal location , but carefully placed it on top of the unit so it wouldn't be damaged yet again by the rollout. I immediately shut everything back off at the breaker.

    Here's where the flames were rolling out, you can see the spot where they were coming through.

    So, now I at least know where the heat exchanger I've heard so much about is located. That might be common knowledge for you folks, but I am completely new to this. However I am not completely new to troubleshooting or taking things apart.

    The next step was getting to it. You have to unscrew the thing with all the wires coming out, the heat exchanger where it's bolted to the floor, where the gas line is mounted to the heat exchanger (and you need a special kind of bit called a "security bit" ($8 for a set at Home Depot). I think typically you would unscrew the gas line, but I didn't have a torque wrench and did not want to buy one.

    At this point I could shimmy out the exchanger a little but and low and behold, some gunk covering a hole. That must be the problem. Or it is one of the problems.



    Enter the trusty coat hanger. Shuffling things around I could get the coat hanger into the entrance of that clogged tube, and spent a good 10 minutes scraping out dust. I went ahead and did this to the rest of the tubes.

    Put everything back together, power back on, gas back on, and tested. Fixed! Heated up the spa twice now with no issues so far.

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