liner track question

[wspscott]

First post, but I have learned lots from TFP over the last couple of years, so a belated thank you

I am in the process of redoing my pool deck, well the contractor building a covered patio is redoing the pool deck and I am watching

We are replacing a poured concrete deck with pavers. I bought liner track (HM2 Straight Sections Parts - INYOPools.com) and the paver guy installed it on top of the pool wall. I was a little surprised when I came home from work and saw how he had installed it. There are 3 corners like this. The "gap" between sections of the liner track is about 2 inches.


There is one corner like this



The pavers are going to be installed with a thinset over the concrete. I want to make sure that this liner track is not going to cause problems when the new liner is installed. The track was installed with self-tapping screws before the concrete was poured. I assume it would be easy to cut the heads of the screws off and then drill holes in the concrete if I need this redone.

Does anyone have any insights? Thanks.

 

[Divin Dave]

Hi,
Welcome to Troublefree Pools!

In the first picture, it looks like there is something in that corner that prevets the two pieces of liner track from coming together like it does in the 2nd pic. Not sure what be done about it or if there is anything that can. What is that?

No real idea if that will be problematic or not. Have you discussed it with the installer? If not, you should.

 

[wspscott]

I should have mentioned that I have not done anything with the liner part of the renovation yet. My original plan was to possibly put that off until next spring. There is a local pool company that has quoted me a liner, but that was before the liner track was installed. I'm going to email them these pics and see what they say, but I wanted to see what some of the people here thought.

The first picture is just where the steel walls come together in the corner. It was built as a two 45 degree angles vs. one 90 degree angle. There is a little bit of duct tape hanging that runs down the seam. In the picture, it looks like a piece of metal hanging into the pool area. The pool is ~30 years old if that matters.

 

[Divin Dave]

I would say you're probably going to have to form a piece of liner track to cover those corners. Otherwise, there will be nothing there for the liner to hang in.

If you are handy and have some DIY experience with fitting trim or roof flashing and trim, you can form pieces to fit around those corners yourself.

If you arent comfortable doing that, then take accurace measurements of the corners, and hit the yellow pages for machine shop or sheet metal working shops in your area and see if they would be willing to help you out with forming some. They can easily form some of your liner track to fit those corners.

 

[kimmielea]

My original plan was to possibly put that off until next spring.

You don't mention where you are from. If you are in an area where it freezes, I would get the liner in ASAP and fill with water. If water gets behind the walls and freezes, you are taking a chance of the walls bulging, or worse case scenario, collapsing. Ice can be extremely damaging.

Just my 2 cents :blah:

 

[ewkearns]

I'm not a liner installer, but I really think inside corners need to accommodate either a radius or 45 degree piece between the 90 degree walls. Outside corners should be mitered, so that the liner is in the track all the way around the corner..... Personally, in that sort of endeavor, sharp corners are stress risers and, IMHO, should be avoided.....

Surely, someone with more experience can weigh in.....

 

[wspscott]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I heard from a pool company that is probably going to do the liner and they said it is a problem. My contractor and the paver guy have talked to the pool company and are going to fix it. Luckily I have some liner track left over.

I never thought about a freeze issue, I'll mention that to the pool company and see what they say.

 

[wspscott]

I kept meaning to get back and update this thread. The paver guy ended up cutting more liner track and redoing the corners.

The liner ended up being no problem once all the coping and pavers were done

But now I have another question. The polymeric sand settled between the "regular" pavers like it should, but did not stick between the coping pavers where they overhang the pool. My wife would like the coping to look a little more finished but I am not sure if it is possible to get polymeric sand to "stick" long enough to hold. Any ideas/suggestion??

 

[wspscott]

I usually hate it when people bump threads, but I am hopeful that someone here has a suggestion for filling the gaps between the coping pavers.

Never bump this again, I promise

 

[tcrote5516]

Yes. I've done it myself. Get a roll of 2" wide blue painters tape and tape the underside and 3/4 of the way up the bullnose. CAREFULLY sweep in the sand and lightly mist it to set it. Do not get sand in the pool! A little won't hurt anything but a lot will cause all kinds of plumbing issues. Also, don't SOAK the sand and allow a ton of water to runoff into the pool (again, some will go in but minimize it as best as possible). I find its best to go back to it after 5 min and mist it down again until I'm sure water has made it down to the bottom. After 6 hours you can remove the tape and the joint will hold.

I've done this on my paver coping and on stone stairs that have a 2" overhang with great success and a very finished/professional look.

 

[wspscott]

Yes. I've done it myself. Get a roll of 2" wide blue painters tape and tape the underside and 3/4 of the way up the bullnose. CAREFULLY sweep in the sand and lightly mist it to set it. Do not get sand in the pool! A little won't hurt anything but a lot will cause all kinds of plumbing issues. Also, don't SOAK the sand and allow a ton of water to runoff into the pool (again, some will go in but minimize it as best as possible). I find its best to go back to it after 5 min and mist it down again until I'm sure water has made it down to the bottom. After 6 hours you can remove the tape and the joint will hold.

I've done this on my paver coping and on stone stairs that have a 2" overhang with great success and a very finished/professional look.

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense and sounds pretty straight forward.