I just finished my liner install and began filling the pool with city water. The pool is a vinyl inground about 20,000 gallons. I live in Michigan and the weather is dropping in temperature. I have all the plumbing ran to the pad but was not planning to hookup any of the mechanical components. I.e the pentair Inteliflow pumps. What can I do to prepare my newly filled pool for winter as far as treating it with chemicals if that is what is recommended from all of you without having a pump to circulate the chemicals? I did order today the TF-100 test kit and the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit as I'm planning to do a salt water system pool. I have not performed any tests as I'm waiting on the kits to arrive. My reasoning for no mechanicals is simple....I'm just out of time until spring and don't want to put all the shinny new stuff out in the snow. Lol.
New pool just filled with water but no pump
- Thread starter Poolsidetoday
- Start date
When you get your kit, send us the results and we can advise you. What type of winter cover did you get? If it's solid, did you get a cover pump that is submersible?
You could use a sump pump and a hose to circulate your chemicals around for closing...
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
You have traded one issue for another. Filling a new pool and getting the chemistry right without a circulatory system is problematic.
I would simply wait out the winter and plan to balance in the Spring. It can be done but I don't think it's worth the hassle to get it balanced now.
Cross-posted with duraleigh...if you decide to try to balance chems, see these notes re closing: otherwise, leave it, but do protect your skimmer box 
Poolside...who says we're getting snow this year? (I wish.)
Please take care if you use a submersible pump to circulate your CHEMS and balance before putting on the winter cover...a guy in another thread just caused a leak in his liner by setting the pump on the pool floor...so suspend it if you use one just to be safe.
Alternately, if you've purchased a robot to clean the pool already, that is a great way to circulate the water and mix in chemical additions without the normal equipment...in addition to slow careful pouring and manual mixing.
With a brand new liner the thing you'll want to be cognizant of is that chlorine/bleach is heavier than water...without a pump running if you just pour it in and leave it, it can concentrate and "sit" on the bottom. So you want to mix it in well.
To winterize your pool you may still want to blow out the lines to be safe (in theory they should be empty anyway) and plug the skimmer with a gizmo so that the freeze/thaw cycle doesn't hurt your skimmer box. Here in gr we use duck plugs on the returns, a gizmo, pull out the light and leave the water level high to keep the liner in place against high water table.
Here is a link to the gizmo;
Amazon.com : Gizzmo MWUG Ultra Skimmer Freeze Protection with Blowout Valve, 18-Inch : Swimming Pool Skimmers : Patio, Lawn Garden
Here are the duck plugs: Amazon.com : Anderson WDP150 Winter Duck Plug : Swimming Pool Winterizing Chemicals : Patio, Lawn Garden
Poolside...who says we're getting snow this year
? (I wish.)Please take care if you use a submersible pump to circulate your CHEMS and balance before putting on the winter cover...a guy in another thread just caused a leak in his liner by setting the pump on the pool floor...so suspend it if you use one just to be safe.
Alternately, if you've purchased a robot to clean the pool already, that is a great way to circulate the water and mix in chemical additions without the normal equipment...in addition to slow careful pouring and manual mixing.
With a brand new liner the thing you'll want to be cognizant of is that chlorine/bleach is heavier than water...without a pump running if you just pour it in and leave it, it can concentrate and "sit" on the bottom. So you want to mix it in well.
To winterize your pool you may still want to blow out the lines to be safe (in theory they should be empty anyway) and plug the skimmer with a gizmo so that the freeze/thaw cycle doesn't hurt your skimmer box. Here in gr we use duck plugs on the returns, a gizmo, pull out the light and leave the water level high to keep the liner in place against high water table.
Here is a link to the gizmo;
Amazon.com : Gizzmo MWUG Ultra Skimmer Freeze Protection with Blowout Valve, 18-Inch : Swimming Pool Skimmers : Patio, Lawn Garden
Here are the duck plugs: Amazon.com : Anderson WDP150 Winter Duck Plug : Swimming Pool Winterizing Chemicals : Patio, Lawn Garden
So I was sitting in the hot tub after writing that post when the icy sleet started
One should not taunt the Mitten Winter Goddess Thanks everyone. The wind has been blowing hard. Still not to cold yet for this time of year. Thank heavens. As this pool build has been a long tiring one. Lol. I was hoping it would be OK to just leave the water until spring. Adding no chemicals that is. I will still test it as I want to try out my new kit when it arrives. I did purchase this solid cover http://www.wayfair.com/Robelle-Ultra-In-Ground-Winter-Swimming-Pool-Cover-DUI1117-L3733-K~DUI1117.html?refid=GX71596705710-DUI1117_9827300&device=m&ptid=101839182780&PiID%5B%5D=9827300&gclid=CKTqiYupjskCFQUHaQodsVoCNQ
i do have a sub pump for the cover.
i do have a sub pump for the cover.
I did purchase the gigit one way valve
for the returns already for winterizing. And was going to purchase the simpooltec skimmer door covers and leave the water high. I purchase plugs for the skimmers and was going to blow the lines out, add some antifreeze and install the plugs. Think that will
work?
work?
Hi there. Just leaving the water is likely safest for your liner if you find your test shows the water you added is normal in terms of TA and ph. Algae, for sample, can't typically grow in water that's under 60 degrees, so if you hook up your equipment early enough in spring you might avoid the swamp effect.
Your issue with Pool Antifreeze (under NO circumstance use auto antifreeze) is that you do not have your equipment set up to get it back out of the lines and while its not harmful to the same scale as auto antifreeze (which is downright toxic) you don't really want to blow it back into the water on set up (may fight chlorine, increase ccs, smells odd, etc.)
Usually in spring, the guys here start up by pumping to waste to get rid of the antifreeze. Not sure what installation of equipment requires in terms of getting the water flowing and priming the pump in your case, so perhaps there's no reason you couldn't do exactly the same...are you self-installing or having the work done for you? If you're having the work done, you might ask installers their opinion.
Re: cover...I'm assuming you're aware that's not a safety cover (which typically cost a few thousand but last years and semi-permanently anchor to the pad via springs and bolts...the difference is high grade strapping that will handle high loads) and that your pool is otherwise secured from any humans/animals via fencing etc. so the cover is more to avoid leaves etc. from getting into the water.
When house hunting a few years back I saw folks use those types of covers with water bags so they must hold up to the snow okay...my pool's really close to my house and en route to a poolhouse/guest house type of structure which is likely why mine came with the pricier but more robust winter cover.
Good thing too as my son's visiting Siamese kitten, known as "grand-kitty" promptly walked across it the week after I closed the pool. He was quite mystified as to where the sparkly wet stuff had gone
Your issue with Pool Antifreeze (under NO circumstance use auto antifreeze) is that you do not have your equipment set up to get it back out of the lines and while its not harmful to the same scale as auto antifreeze (which is downright toxic) you don't really want to blow it back into the water on set up (may fight chlorine, increase ccs, smells odd, etc.)
Usually in spring, the guys here start up by pumping to waste to get rid of the antifreeze. Not sure what installation of equipment requires in terms of getting the water flowing and priming the pump in your case, so perhaps there's no reason you couldn't do exactly the same...are you self-installing or having the work done for you? If you're having the work done, you might ask installers their opinion.
Re: cover...I'm assuming you're aware that's not a safety cover (which typically cost a few thousand but last years and semi-permanently anchor to the pad via springs and bolts...the difference is high grade strapping that will handle high loads) and that your pool is otherwise secured from any humans/animals via fencing etc. so the cover is more to avoid leaves etc. from getting into the water.
When house hunting a few years back I saw folks use those types of covers with water bags so they must hold up to the snow okay...my pool's really close to my house and en route to a poolhouse/guest house type of structure which is likely why mine came with the pricier but more robust winter cover.
Good thing too as my son's visiting Siamese kitten, known as "grand-kitty" promptly walked across it the week after I closed the pool. He was quite mystified as to where the sparkly wet stuff had gone
I will for sure next year have a nice tension cover. Just don't have any pavers around the pool to anchor the cover to yet that's a spring project. And yes I am doing the whole install myself. From digging the hole to setting up the pumps, heater, DE Filter and heat pump
That's great, poolside -- you'll be in a perfect position to do an early spring hookup before the water warms up! There are quite a few posters here with a good deal of tech know-how (btw, I'm not one of them ) so be sure to pick their brains if you need support on install!
) so be sure to pick their brains if you need support on install!
Cool!!!! Wait for full sun to do the CYA test. You can practice on your "fill" water but don't do CYA test on that as fill water won't have CYA.