Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    7

    Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Hello,

    I have had a Jacuzzi J365 for a couple months now and just flushed and refilled. I'm interested in the dichlor/bleach method.

    Can I switch to this method at anytime? For example, if my CYA levels start to rise would switching to bleach allow them to lower?

  2. Back To Top    #2
    banditig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    464

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    You would need to drain and refill to lower the CYA level.
    15x54 swim & play vinyl metal wall AG
    Hayward S210T sand filter 1.5 HP Pentair Superflo vs
    Rheem raypak 130,000 BTU mv ng
    Jacuzzi 345 whirlpool bath
    TF-100 test kit, HM digital com100 Wanda the Whale

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    from what i know of it, from this site, yes, switch to bleach when your cya is around 4.
    dichlor always adds to cya, hence why you switch when cya is at a certain level.

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    411

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pool_Kid View Post
    from what i know of it, from this site, yes, switch to bleach when your cya is around 4.
    dichlor always adds to cya, hence why you switch when cya is at a certain level.
    Umm, more like 20-30. See:

    How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?)
    15,000 gallon free form Viking fiberglass pool. Hayward Star-Clear Plus C12002 cartridge filter. Hayward Swim Pure Plus T-15 SWG. Testing with TF-100 Kit. 2 speed 1.5HP Supreme pump. Dolphin Nautilus robotic cleaner

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    7

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Thanks! I had just emptied and refilled due to CYA getting too high.

    What would be the best borates to use and where would I get that? Brand new to hot tubbing so trying to gather as much info as I can.

    If i'm reading the PoolMath correctly, it says I would need to add 17oz of boric acid to get 50ppm?

    440 gallon spa.

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,082

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Use Dichlor until you get your CYA to 30-40 ppm (20-30 is what I used to say, but since it drops over time it's better to be a little higher). After that you switch to bleach but then use Dichlor for one day each month to make up for the roughly 5 ppm CYA that gets oxidized by chlorine.

    You can get boric acid (granular) from DudaDiesel or from The Chemistry Store.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    30

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Quote Originally Posted by nlindelldc View Post
    Umm, more like 20-30. See:

    How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?)
    my bad. i probably meant to hit 40. thanks for the correction.

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,082

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    It still says 20-30 in the sticky so it wasn't your bad.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    7

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Thanks! I really appreciate it. I've ordered the boric acid and will give the dichlor then bleach method a shot. I read through a few of the detailed descriptions of the method, has anything changed or been updated? One I read was from 2009.

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    7

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Can I start using the bleach without the borate? Still trying to get my alkalinity down.

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,082

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Yes you can use the bleach without the borates, but your pH will tend to rise faster so you'll need to watch that. Of course, since you are lowering the TA you should be watching your water chemistry anyway.

    I think the Dichlor-then-bleach sticky is mostly up-to-date now except for the CYA level. It originally said to have the TA below 80 but now we say for it to be 50 ppm and the use of Borates not optional.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  12. Back To Top    #12

    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    7

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Thanks! Also, on a somewhat separate note, I've noticed that there seem to be some effervescent type bubbles forming with jets running. They seem to form a bright white "clean" looking foam on the surface that dissipates pretty quickly after the jets are off. I just refilled last Thursday and with the fresh water I didn't notice any of this at that point.

    Any thoughts on what could be causing it? I'm guessing it could be a result of the 7 people that were in the tub the next day and the accompanying detergent on their suits. It doesn't bother me too much but wanted to see if a) that was normal and b) if there's any way to mitigate it. The bubbles aren't foggy or cloudy, they don't seem to be from scum or anything like that.

    Here are some photos.

    IMG_6500.jpg
    IMG_6501.jpg

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,082

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Yes it is probably due to soap/detergent left in the swimsuits. You can scoop the foam to help remove it. If your CH is not 120-150 ppm, you can raise it to that level which should help reduce foaming.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

  14. Back To Top    #14

    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    7

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    Thanks Chem Geek, really appreciate it! If the cause were something other than detergent/soap such as deodorant or other oil based products would the foam show an oily or scumy attribute? Also, would it eventually be captured by the filter?

  15. Back To Top    #15

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Rafael, CA USA
    Posts
    12,082

    Re: Dichlor/Bleach transition at anytime?

    The foam itself is more likely to be from soap/detergent like molecules but of course you could have other substances mixed in on the surface including plain oils. Oils on the surface can be removed by use of a scum ball that attracts/collects oil. Soap foam itself is most easily removed by scooping, but the scum ball may help with that as well (the water hating tails of soap may bind to the scum ball). As for the filter, these substances would tend to get adsorbed by a cartridge filter IF they ever got to the filter, but because these substances have long water hating parts of the molecule, they tend to stay on the surface of the water and not get circulated to the filter (unless you've got a lot of suction with a funnel of water, but that would tend to suck in air as well so is unlikely).
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •