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Thread: valve question

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    valve question

    http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/...pswv8egbof.jpg

    I'm trying to figure out the logic in this valve. I can't seem to wrap my head around its intended usage. To me it seems like it should be on the input side of the heater and would allow you to bypass the heater, but I can't seem to grasp why it would be on the output side? What purpose would it serve in its current capacity?

    Thanks for the input.

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    pabeader's Avatar
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    Re: valve question

    It still serves as a bypass, but allows some minimal circulation in the heater. Think of it like this: In the position where it blocks exit from the heater, the water will bypass because if it can't get out it can't get in. So it will take the stub, go through the valve and continue on. But a small amount of chlorinated water can diffuse into the standing water in the heater.

    At least, that's how I see it. I'm sure there will be others along soon with other ideas.
    Bob - Palm Beach by San Juan Pools. approx 5000 gals., Pentair 320 cartridge filter (all new guts installed by me), Goldline SWG, 'New to me' Kreepy Krauly Sand Shark, Intermec 104 Timer Test kit: TF-100 w/Speed Stir

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    Re: valve question

    That would be my guess as well, but it's nothing more than a guess. The way the valve currently sits, wouldn't all 3 ports be open? Is that how it normally runs?
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    Agent99's Avatar
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    Re: valve question

    I have mine on the input side but I also have a check valve on the output side of the heater. In theory, I could actually remove my heater from the system and things should still work fine although only with the pump running to keep the check valve closed.

    It does work on the output side but perhaps it was done to ensure that the heater ALWAYS has water in it?

    A bypass may also be used to LIMIT the amount of flow into a heater (in case it is too high although that is probably a rare problem).
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    banditig's Avatar
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    Re: valve question

    I have a bypass outside heater also. It reduces the the flow going in heater, so the water exiting the heater is warmer. Also, my heater has an internal bypass valve that opens when the pressure is higher. My external valve is a ball type, I can ajust the mixture.
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    Re: valve question

    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    That would be my guess as well, but it's nothing more than a guess. The way the valve currently sits, wouldn't all 3 ports be open? Is that how it normally runs?
    Its been in the full open position since I bought the pool 7 years ago. I've never used the heater in that time. In fact I don't even know if the heater works. I had to replace part of my pump the other day and was just trying to figure out the function of that valve. I could see how closing it on the exit side of the heater could create a "by pass" effect, but don't understand why it would help any. Basically I guess I don't understand what the function would be.

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    Re: valve question

    Attachment 43801this is the proper way to plumb the by-pass valve , your current configuration uses a 3 way valve, which can turn 180', my drawing uses a 2 way valve and can only turn 90' and as you can see is plumbed between the two heater lines, in this position you can either open the crossover line, or regulate the flow that allows some of the pumps water to flow thru the line and bypass the heater, or close off the line completely, and force all the water flow to go thru heater, this is the right way to plumb the bypass valve, because it can never be turned in such a way that would cause it to stop water flow to flow back to the pool, unlike your set up with 3 way valve, that can be turned to close off the flow back to the pool, which increases the pressure in the system, and will break at the weakest point in the plumbing, or equipment, due to water flow restriction, if the water cannot circulate, it will build up pressure in the lines from the pump still trying to push the water, and BOOM!! its gonna give somewhere and spray water everywhere, im sure you get the point, if you stand in front of the valve you have now facing the tan filter tank, and put your hand on the valve handle and turn it to the right you will block off that part of the pipe that allows water to flow to pool and this is the only position that your 3 way valve will cause this to happen,because if you turn the handle to the left it can still flow thru the middle to get back to the pool. since you don't use the heater,leave the valve handle in its current position,and even go as far as removing the handle from the valve so it cant be turned to the right by accident. this valve is there for the sole purpose of regulating flow thru the heater if it were needed it has no other function, my set up does not have the optional explosive position like yours, i guess it's another way to see it.

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    Re: valve question

    Attachment 43801this is the proper way to plumb the by-pass valve , your current configuration uses a 3 way valve, which can turn 180', my drawing uses a 2 way valve and can only turn 90' and as you can see is plumbed between the two heater lines, in this position you can either open the crossover line, or regulate the flow that allows some of the pumps water to flow thru the line and bypass the heater, or close off the line completely, and force all the water flow to go thru heater, this is the right way to plumb the bypass valve, because it can never be turned in such a way that would cause it to stop water flow to flow back to the pool, unlike your set up with 3 way valve, that can be turned to close off the flow back to the pool, which increases the pressure in the system, and will break at the weakest point in the plumbing, or equipment, due to water flow restriction, if the water cannot circulate, it will build up pressure in the lines from the pump still trying to push the water, and BOOM!! its gonna give somewhere and spray water everywhere, im sure you get the point, if you stand in front of the valve you have now facing the tan filter tank, and put your hand on the valve handle and turn it to the right you will block off that part of the pipe that allows water to flow to pool and this is the only position that your 3 way valve will cause this to happen,because if you turn the handle to the left it can still flow thru the middle to get back to the pool. since you don't use the heater,leave the valve handle in its current position,and even go as far as removing the handle from the valve so it cant be turned to the right by accident. this valve is there for the sole purpose of regulating flow thru the heater if it were needed it has no other function, my set up does not have the optional explosive position like yours, i guess it's another way to see it.

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    banditig's Avatar
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    Re: valve question

    Yes thats correct. My ball valve is also in between the heater intake and output (shaped kinda like a H). With it closed the water does not get very warm, so I open it to reduce flow into the heater. Makes a big difference in temperature of water leaving the heater.
    15x54 swim & play vinyl metal wall AG
    Hayward S210T sand filter 1.5 HP Pentair Superflo vs
    Rheem raypak 130,000 BTU mv ng
    Jacuzzi 345 whirlpool bath
    TF-100 test kit, HM digital com100 Wanda the Whale

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