Closing concrete pool with green water

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Household6

Household6

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Sep 15, 2013
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Fayetteville, NC
Pool Size
38000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
After copious amounts of money and a valiant effort this summer, we had no choice but to cut sling load with our pool guy at the end of Sept. and the pool at our rental has been sitting untouched ever since.

I will be visiting the house Friday (from 300 miles away) and closing the pool. Actually, as I will not have enough time to do a SLAM myself, I'll just be winterizing the pump and lines. We have never closed the pool - always kept it clean and pump running when temps would get down to mid-30's.

A few questions:

1. Is my thinking correct that doing this will have no ill-effect on the pump and lines? What am I chancing as far as the newly-painted concrete surface of the pool? Essentially, it will just be a beast to clean and balance in the spring, right?

2. I saw the posted instructions from Jason on how to close a vinyl liner pool. Searched for any variations on closing a concrete pool, but could not find anything. Is there any difference?

3. I'm a visual learner. Is there a video of how to do this?

4. I'd prefer not to have to buy anything while in town so I want to ensure I have everything with me that I'll need. It appears I need to pack a basic tool kit, shop vac, bendable funnel, and a gallon of antifreeze. Anything else?

I feel certain most of these questions are somewhere in the forum, but obviously I'm not using the correct search terms to find it.

Thanks for the help!
 
Check the Pool School articles. Specifically this one: Pool School - Closing an In Ground Pool

If you're using antifreeze, you'll need to make sure it's the RV antifreeze type, not automotive. RV antifreeze is less toxic and safe if (when) it gets mixed with pool water in the spring. Also, bring more than one gallon so you have enough for on top of the skimmer once plugged and for the lines you choose to put it in.

There are many videos on youtube showing how to blow out lines and close a pool. There are lots of variations on where to blow from, with what equipment, how much to drain, use antifreeze or not, what plugs to use so you'll have to do what's best for your pool configuration, climate and available resources. Many videos also detail the tools you'll need. I would suggest bringing plenty of expandable plugs properly sized for your return fittings and skimmer drain openings.

I would bring the pool up to SLAM level if possible and/or use some polyquat based algaecide when closing to help prevent the pool from getting even worse before spring. Obviously it won't clear the pool, but it may save some headache in the spring. You may get some staining in the paint but if you're lucky, when you're able to properly SLAM in the spring, the organic based stains will fade... but they may not.
 
Ug! The plugs! I'm assuming this is something I can pick up at the local pool store? I haven't any idea what size or type ours are, so that's likely best a purchase to be made locally.

Thanks for the reminder re the Antifreeze type, and your time in responding.
 
Thanks (the 300 mile reference was confusing).

Absolute Overkill. Antifreeze and drain plugs simply aren't necessary that far South.

Drain the filter and pump and any other device that is above the level of the pool water and you are good to go.
 
GAH! Why does it ALL have to be so difficult?
Messed with the ladder. It ain't coming out.
Ok, whatever. Moving on to droppin water level.

We have no main drain. No sup pump can't we drain via backwash? HOW?
 
So sorry. One way is to use your vacuum hose without the vacuum plate and plug the hose directly into the skimmer line. Then you are drawing water from the bottom of the pool. Just watch to make sure you don't cavitate the pump.
 

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